Painting outdrive on 270!?

laureniac1laureniac1 Member Posts: 257 ✭✭✭
So I'm considering bottom painting my outdrive on my 270 because I'm tired of the pitting every year. I've sanded, primed , and painted and I've had enough lol! I'm using the Hydocot Petit eco non copper and yes it's rated for aluminum. Thoughts? And if I paint out drive do I still need the gap around outdrive and transom? Thanks 

Comments

  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,379 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I've been really happy with trilux 33 outdrive paint in Lake Erie. Easy to spray fro spray paint can. I use hydrocoat on my bottom and love it but not the drive. Yes you still need the gap. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited September 2017
    I would respectfully say.......it depends - leaving a gap depends on the bottom paint you use. It USED to be you had to leave a gap because the bottom paints had dissolved metals (usually copper) in them that reacted with the metals in your drive (aluminum and stainless steel).

    Because I am ocd and was about to bottom paint a brand new 2014 Rinker EC 360 I asked my gel coat guy first. He said no way should you leave a gap as that will be a water entry point into your hull. I then telephoned the three major boat paint manufacturers and an old friend from my painting company days, a chemical engineer with International Paints.

    Everyone said the same thing. If you are using recently approved/applied bottom coatings do not leave a gap. The chemical engineer asked. "Do you plan on leaving a patch on the bottom of your hull unpainted, if not why wouldn't you paint right up to the drives?"

    The entire hull was painted right up to and touching the drives. Everything was in pristine condition after two years until it was sold. 

    BTW - the surveyor who was contracted to survey the boat prior to sale said " Way to go with the bottom paint - right up to the drives!"


  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,379 ✭✭✭✭✭
    MT makes a good point. I've always been told to leave the gap but the reason is conflict of metal in the bottom paint and the drive. I use the cheap hydrocoat. With changes and advancement in bottom paints it would make sense that some paints don't require the gap. May be worth a call to the paint mfg. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @Liberty44140.....btw that hydrocoat you are using makes you look real smart. It got a great rating in a side by side paint comparison. I believe the high points were: easier to apply, does not give off toxic fumes to the painter or leach toxic particles into the water, wears evenly (meaning it does not "clump" resulting in ugly - speed robbing "flaking"), is easier to re-coat AND will not set-up electrical/chemical cross currents among dissimilar bottom metals........did I already mention that makes you look real smart?
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,379 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks MT! Love Hydrocoat for those reasons. Lasts a full 5 years (not 6 years, trust me). Great stuff. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • laureniac1laureniac1 Member Posts: 257 ✭✭✭
    Thanks for all your help guys. The hydrocot eco has no copper so it's good for outdrive. It's a bit pricy but should be good stuff. If a get a few seasons out if it I'm happy 
  • 06Rinker27006Rinker270 Member Posts: 1,277 ✭✭✭
    I have Trilux 33 and I am not happy with it at all.  I will be finding a new product for next season.  Here is a searay forum discussion on the same topic.  Looks like they have had success with the ECO.

    http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/petit-hydrocoat-eco-on-outdrives.66385/

    Would you put it on your props as well? Trim tabs?  My tabs are covered this year with barnacles! Beyond over it.

    Patrick
    06 Rinker 270
  • laureniac1laureniac1 Member Posts: 257 ✭✭✭
    Nice article 06Rinker270! That makes me feel better after reading that clubsearay forum article. I researched the Hydrcor eco and it seems like the best product. I would imagine it would work on trim tabs. 
  • diggin2day1diggin2day1 Member Posts: 1,328 ✭✭✭✭
    The previous owner of my FV270 used SeaHawk Smart Solutions on the bottom and outdrive without a gap for years. When I purchased the boat 3yrs ago I continue to use the SeaHawk with great success. 
  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,096 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Same here with sea hawk..does anyone paint stainless steel props?
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,379 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I dont paint the SS props but I am fresh. We get some sludge but it comes right off after running the props, they come out clean. Believe you guys in salt with barnacles have a bigger issue when it comes to props?
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,096 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have some weird growth on my props... Almost like mold
  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Nobody can get paint to stay put on SS props.  Last time I primed/painted mine with Trilux, it was gone after ten minutes on plane.  
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,391 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you paint the out drive don't bother covering the props...it will be gone pretty quick!
  • laureniac1laureniac1 Member Posts: 257 ✭✭✭
Sign In or Register to comment.