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Drive Corrosion

WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,187 ✭✭✭✭✭
edited October 2017 in General Boating Discussions
The first pic was back in late June when I had some work done on my drive shaft seal. Second and third pic is today when the marina pulled my boat. Will definitely be changing out my Mercathode and all the anodes. I'm thinking the shore power in my marina might be a little suspect too.
"Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)

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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited October 2017
    I was getting similar corrosion over the past few seasons. I had my carrier bearing replaced last spring as a precaution before it failed at the worst time. When everything was off, I changed the Mercathode anode. The wires were corroded and it more than likely wasn't working well. I am curious as to how my drive is going to look when I pull the boat this weekend. BTW, pull your props and check the corrosion there. 
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Take your shoes off lick your finger and touch the mercathode to see if it's working, or you can use a volt meter it's only 3 volts.the little oval wire
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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    TrashmanTrashman Member Posts: 432 ✭✭✭
    Agree with the guys above but also check your continuity cables.  Everything needs to be connected by the little stainless cables. Be sure u have the correct metal anodes and the mercathode needs to work. 
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Willhound said:
    The first pic was back in late June when I had some work done on my drive shaft seal. Second and third pic is today when the marina pulled my boat. Will definitely be changing out my Mercathode and all the anodes. I'm thinking the shore power in my marina might be a little suspect too.
    That's ugly
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,555 mod
    You are using the wrong anodes.  They have no corrosion at all.  That means they are providing zero protection.  You are in fresh water, right?  The anodes should be magnesium, not aluminum or zinc.  Do you have receipts from when they were installed?  

    Sand all corrosion down to bare shiny aluminum, apply proper primer and paint, and get the right anodes.  
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    WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,187 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Anodes were on the boat when I bought it in the spring. I wondered about the ones on the trim cylinders. You're correct, don't look eaten much. The round one above the props is quite corroded though. Plan on changing them with magnesium for fresh water.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
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    randy56randy56 Member Posts: 4,083 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mine looked the same when I pulled out, bottom was worse, all shinny new looking in the spring. I bought 5 container's of the works toilet bowl cleaner, and put in a garden sprayer, went over bottom and out drive 3 times, pressure washing between each, clean now, not much hand scrubbing,  outdrive, sanded, primed,  repainted and ready. 

    Boat Name : 

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    Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Good comments above.  Something else to check if you have the electric trim tabs:  check for cracks in the housing.  I had one crack, still worked, but created an electric circuit that chewed up the drives like yours.  

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You can also add anodes to the trim tabs. I have them on mine and they are pitted at the end of the season.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,459 admin
    Def wrong anodes......... It looks worse than it is. I have seen a lot worse that lasted years. The trick now is to not let it get worse....
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
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    Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,332 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I've been replacing the anodes every year as cheap insurance, yes magnesium for fresh water. Around $55 a drive. You may want to look at adding the bullet like anode at the end of the props, that was added to B3's around 2002 or 2003 I believe. Agree with Greg, I'm also replacing the anodes on the tabs annually. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

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    WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,187 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Tabs are hydraulic, the old Boat Leveller system. Tabs themselves look like new. I'll have to check, my drive being a 2000, not sure if the prop nut anode is compatible or not, but if it is, I'll add it. Having the marina mechanic check out the drive this winter anyway, so will get it re-finished and get his opinion on the carrier bearing etc. Mercathode anode looking pretty bad too, likely will change that while I'm at it.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
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    Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,332 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There is a part or kit to add the prop bullet anode to your drive 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

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    davidbrooksdavidbrooks Member Posts: 1,347 ✭✭✭✭
    I replaced my outer prop nut with this http://www.boatzincs.com/prop_nut_magnesium_specs.html. It then allows me to add a prop anode.  So far they have worked great.
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
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    bry1429bry1429 Member Posts: 371 ✭✭✭
    edited October 2017
    http://www.boatzincs.com/index.html

    Ordered,shipped,delivered in 2 days, free delivery.
    Post edited by bry1429 on
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    WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,187 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Free in the US. By the time I pay shipping and exchange, same price as here in Canada. Good link for you American guys though.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
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