Winterizing 101

zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
edited October 2017 in General Boating Discussions
i decided to create a step by step simple winterizing procedure for my friend.
we all know what marinas charge for winterizing engines and other components.

Step 1
i run fuel stable all boating season. 
I store my boat with half tanks or just under.
if you don’t run stable then pour needed amount into the gas tank during last outing or while running on muffs.

Step 2
once boat is blocked I proceed to winterizing the engine or engines.

remove exhaust manifold drain and use a small screw driver to clear the hole so you get a nice full stream while draining.
remove block drain and follow same screw driver trick until nice flow is achieved.

repeat same steps on the opposite side of the engine. ( closed cooling will have only manifold drains since engine is cooled by antifreeze like a vehicle) new mercs and Volvo’s will
also have a single point Engine drain. I don’t trust those and still manually drain like I explained in step 2.

Step3
once manifolds and block is drained proceed to remove the in feed and out feed hoses from your raw water pump. Some water will come out. Follow the infeed hose down and you will find the inline cooler. Remove the attached hose and some more water will dribble out. Put the cooler hose back on. It’s same hose that goes to the raw side of the main circulating pump.

Step4
i usually buy 2 gal of red pop for each engine. So 4 if you have a twin and raw cooled.

remove hose from the thermostat housing that goes to the exhaust manifold and pour red pop into it. You will hear antifreeze pouring out of the drain. If you don’t hear anything stick a screw driver back into the drain to clear whatever is blocking the flow.
hose I am talking  about goes from t stat housing to the bottom of the manifold. Upper
hose goes to the riser aka the elbow. No need to flush that one since it’s already gravity drained into the manifold.
 Repeat same process on the opposite side of the engine.
now your main circulating pump has infeed side coming from the raw water side and out feed side that flows water thru the entire engine.
pour red pop into raw side. This will back flush the cooler and come out of the lower leg.
now pour red pop into the out feed side of the pump hose and this will start flushing your block.
make sure both drains are flowing antifreeze if flow is weak clear them again.
thats it you are done!
I will reattach all hoses but will leave drain plugs out for the winter. This way I can inspect everything one more time come spring when putting them back in.
you can also skip the red pop back flush since air doesn’t freeze. I flush from the top not to fill the manifolds or block but to flush more gunk out of the engine.
i Dont fog engines and specially don’t fog fuel injected engines lol
if you decided to fog
do it either in the water right before pulling the boat or on muffs.


Post edited by zaverin1 on

Comments

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I dont have to do any of this Michael.  :):)
  • zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
    Agreed 
    I change engine oil and all filters
    i check gear lube for water intrusion in drives but change n grease in spring 
  • zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
    It’s just easier to change oil when in the water
    run engines to temp and makes it that easier to suck warm oil vs cold
    some
    guys do it in the spring
  • WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,183 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I'd also vote for oil change and gear oil check/change in fall. Great write up. Only part I'd question is why half tanks? I've always thought full tanks have less opportunity for condensation. I know some believe that a half tank means you can top up fresh in spring. But if properly stabilized, should be good.
    Thoughts?
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,318 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I like 1/8 - 1/4 tanks. Minimal weight on boat and I use fuel medic which disperses condensation. Fuel loses octane over the winter and I like to start fresh. Everyone has their own way, that's mine. Been doing that for 8 years and no water in separators. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
    First Part is half old half fresh
    second part is weight 
  • zaverin1zaverin1 Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
    But in reality 6 months is not that long lol
    If few years yes it makes sense to stable the fuel
    i will run sea foam each spring after first fill
    up
    my boat is carbed fi engines don’t need any extra additives besides for winter store and basic maintenance of fuel.

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