Winterizing 101
zaverin1
Member Posts: 1,672 ✭✭✭
i decided to create a step by step simple winterizing procedure for my friend.
we all know what marinas charge for winterizing engines and other components.
Step 1
i run fuel stable all boating season.
I store my boat with half tanks or just under.
if you don’t run stable then pour needed amount into the gas tank during last outing or while running on muffs.
Step 2
once boat is blocked I proceed to winterizing the engine or engines.
remove exhaust manifold drain and use a small screw driver to clear the hole so you get a nice full stream while draining.
remove block drain and follow same screw driver trick until nice flow is achieved.
repeat same steps on the opposite side of the engine. ( closed cooling will have only manifold drains since engine is cooled by antifreeze like a vehicle) new mercs and Volvo’s will
also have a single point Engine drain. I don’t trust those and still manually drain like I explained in step 2.
Step3
once manifolds and block is drained proceed to remove the in feed and out feed hoses from your raw water pump. Some water will come out. Follow the infeed hose down and you will find the inline cooler. Remove the attached hose and some more water will dribble out. Put the cooler hose back on. It’s same hose that goes to the raw side of the main circulating pump.
Step4
i usually buy 2 gal of red pop for each engine. So 4 if you have a twin and raw cooled.
remove hose from the thermostat housing that goes to the exhaust manifold and pour red pop into it. You will hear antifreeze pouring out of the drain. If you don’t hear anything stick a screw driver back into the drain to clear whatever is blocking the flow.
hose I am talking about goes from t stat housing to the bottom of the manifold. Upper
hose goes to the riser aka the elbow. No need to flush that one since it’s already gravity drained into the manifold.
Repeat same process on the opposite side of the engine.
now your main circulating pump has infeed side coming from the raw water side and out feed side that flows water thru the entire engine.
pour red pop into raw side. This will back flush the cooler and come out of the lower leg.
now pour red pop into the out feed side of the pump hose and this will start flushing your block.
make sure both drains are flowing antifreeze if flow is weak clear them again.
thats it you are done!
I will reattach all hoses but will leave drain plugs out for the winter. This way I can inspect everything one more time come spring when putting them back in.
you can also skip the red pop back flush since air doesn’t freeze. I flush from the top not to fill the manifolds or block but to flush more gunk out of the engine.
i Dont fog engines and specially don’t fog fuel injected engines lol
if you decided to fog
do it either in the water right before pulling the boat or on muffs.
we all know what marinas charge for winterizing engines and other components.
Step 1
i run fuel stable all boating season.
I store my boat with half tanks or just under.
if you don’t run stable then pour needed amount into the gas tank during last outing or while running on muffs.
Step 2
once boat is blocked I proceed to winterizing the engine or engines.
remove exhaust manifold drain and use a small screw driver to clear the hole so you get a nice full stream while draining.
remove block drain and follow same screw driver trick until nice flow is achieved.
repeat same steps on the opposite side of the engine. ( closed cooling will have only manifold drains since engine is cooled by antifreeze like a vehicle) new mercs and Volvo’s will
also have a single point Engine drain. I don’t trust those and still manually drain like I explained in step 2.
Step3
once manifolds and block is drained proceed to remove the in feed and out feed hoses from your raw water pump. Some water will come out. Follow the infeed hose down and you will find the inline cooler. Remove the attached hose and some more water will dribble out. Put the cooler hose back on. It’s same hose that goes to the raw side of the main circulating pump.
Step4
i usually buy 2 gal of red pop for each engine. So 4 if you have a twin and raw cooled.
remove hose from the thermostat housing that goes to the exhaust manifold and pour red pop into it. You will hear antifreeze pouring out of the drain. If you don’t hear anything stick a screw driver back into the drain to clear whatever is blocking the flow.
hose I am talking about goes from t stat housing to the bottom of the manifold. Upper
hose goes to the riser aka the elbow. No need to flush that one since it’s already gravity drained into the manifold.
Repeat same process on the opposite side of the engine.
now your main circulating pump has infeed side coming from the raw water side and out feed side that flows water thru the entire engine.
pour red pop into raw side. This will back flush the cooler and come out of the lower leg.
now pour red pop into the out feed side of the pump hose and this will start flushing your block.
make sure both drains are flowing antifreeze if flow is weak clear them again.
thats it you are done!
I will reattach all hoses but will leave drain plugs out for the winter. This way I can inspect everything one more time come spring when putting them back in.
you can also skip the red pop back flush since air doesn’t freeze. I flush from the top not to fill the manifolds or block but to flush more gunk out of the engine.
i Dont fog engines and specially don’t fog fuel injected engines lol
if you decided to fog
do it either in the water right before pulling the boat or on muffs.
Post edited by zaverin1 on
Comments
I change engine oil and all filters
i check gear lube for water intrusion in drives but change n grease in spring
run engines to temp and makes it that easier to suck warm oil vs cold
some
guys do it in the spring
Thoughts?
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
second part is weight
If few years yes it makes sense to stable the fuel
i will run sea foam each spring after first fill
up
my boat is carbed fi engines don’t need any extra additives besides for winter store and basic maintenance of fuel.