@Black_Diamond....beautiful work! One of the most important areas of a 342 (or any boat with an added-on swim platform) to upgrade. Great example (IMO) of how it should be done...and if my eyes don't deceive me - the plates are bedded in 3M or Sikaflex to ensure even contact and load....awesome!
Will help spread the load better with my dinghy. Esp with the Lk Mich waves! I was seeing some stress from the washers, likely from over tightening when it was built. One of those things that just kept bothering me. lol there were (2) bolts I could not use the plates on: one was in a corner and the other was drilled thru at a bad angle thru a radius on the transom wall. So 16/18 have backing plates now.
That looks great! & I know what you mean by bothering you. I end up having some things like that, I add it to my list and think about it for a while. & it continues bothering me till I figure out the best way to handle it. Good job! (& now I'll have to look at mine )
Platform side looks good. The upper bolts go thru the thin (upper deck) section and the platform wall against the transom is probably 2x as thick. The lower bolts go thru the much thicker transom wall.
If I ever need to tend to the platform side, I’ll pull the whole platform to seal.
I left the bolts in place, otherwise it means resealing everything. Either use a friend to hold the platform side bolt from turning, or use a pait of nuts on the threaded side and jam them. Then a wrench can hold the bolt while loosening the lock nut. The latter is what I did. Mine were 3/8” bolts, 9/16” wrenches. Those ratchet box end wrenches with the flexible ends are perfect for this!
I like the idea of backing plates there. But I'd be leaning toward stainless. Also looking for support rods to run from the end of the platform to the transom. My platform has none. Might be overkill but I'd feel better with them on....if it's possible.
Any ides on where to get stainless plates like BD found?
More $ for SS, harder to drill too. Really no corrosion issue to be concerned with using AL. I liked the 6061 AL as it can flex a bit to deal with a non-smooth/flat surface, SS would be quite rigid at .25” thick.
The only way the plates would bend is if the fiberglass behind them totally failed. Like pulling thru. Mine fit well against the hull and I bedded them in with 4200. Washer under the self locking nut and the compression load is spread out over 11 in2 more area than just the washer alone.
Doing the plates I used in SS was a near $500 bill. AL was like $150 or so. Or close.
I have the integrated swim platform (2007 280 EC), and added a grill mount to the starboard side by the cleat. I had my wife hold the screws from the outside while I wiggled on my belly, over the blackwater holding tank, to reach the backside. I watched a Black Widow crawling on her web near the rear of the 496 as I added washers, nylock nuts, then tried to spray them with lube (to prevent the stainless hardware from galling). The wife had to run off a few times to check on the kids while I laid there, waiting, in a very uncomfortable position, watching this Black Widow and wondering how fast she could really move. By the time we got all 6 tightened I was almost stuck - my core and lower back were so cramped up I couldn't wiggle back around the hatch support. That spider would be fat, dumb, and happy after eating me.
I need to do this also been down there all weekend water pump re install added a air filter for the holding tank and put in a power inverter that the seller of the boat gave me but never installed .sore back and legs and a few cuts
I am glad I found this thread. Thanks for the post as I am a novice to boating repairs. I had water leaking into transom from the swim platform bolts this year on a 2005 Rinker 320. I had removed my swim platform completely to dry out the holes. I did not like the way the washers were digging into the Fiberglass and warped, so I had bought Starboard to use as backing plates. After reading this post, I wonder if the Starboard will be good enough since much of the conversation was about Stainless or AL plates. Does anyone have opinions about using starboard as backing plates?
Starboard is HDPE, it’s plastic, great stuff but it will flex and compress far more than metal. Best backing plate method would be a metal mentioned above.
I am glad I didn't install the starboard. Thanks Liberty.
My thoughts were that it has to be better than no backing plates. But if I am going to add backing plates, I might as well do it right and go with AL or SS.
Agree that it’s probably better than nothing, I used starboard as backing plates many years ago to back a sailboat stancion and it did work, but aluminum or SS is the right material for backing
You really do not need the weight nor expense of stainless. You are just spreading out the load. 6160 aluminum cuts and drills easy. Polar opposite for stainless, very poor machinability.
I used 1/4” thick aluminum plate, it is far stronger than you need. I primed and painted mine, an OCD issue on my end. You don’t even need to paint.
Comments
Will help spread the load better with my dinghy. Esp with the Lk Mich waves! I was seeing some stress from the washers, likely from over tightening when it was built. One of those things that just kept bothering me. lol there were (2) bolts I could not use the plates on: one was in a corner and the other was drilled thru at a bad angle thru a radius on the transom wall. So 16/18 have backing plates now.
I got the plates cut to size from:
https://www.cut2sizemetals.com/aluminum/plate/apl/
6061 Al, 1/4” thick. I primed and painted them too. Just looks nicer.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
If I ever need to tend to the platform side, I’ll pull the whole platform to seal.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Any ides on where to get stainless plates like BD found?
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
More $ for SS, harder to drill too. Really no corrosion issue to be concerned with using AL. I liked the 6061 AL as it can flex a bit to deal with a non-smooth/flat surface, SS would be quite rigid at .25” thick.
You’ll 2-3x the cost using SS.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
Doing the plates I used in SS was a near $500 bill. AL was like $150 or so. Or close.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
I can save about $40 by ordering 9 plates at 2.5x10 and cutting them in half.
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
PC BYC, Holland, MI
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
I have the integrated swim platform (2007 280 EC), and added a grill mount to the starboard side by the cleat. I had my wife hold the screws from the outside while I wiggled on my belly, over the blackwater holding tank, to reach the backside. I watched a Black Widow crawling on her web near the rear of the 496 as I added washers, nylock nuts, then tried to spray them with lube (to prevent the stainless hardware from galling). The wife had to run off a few times to check on the kids while I laid there, waiting, in a very uncomfortable position, watching this Black Widow and wondering how fast she could really move. By the time we got all 6 tightened I was almost stuck - my core and lower back were so cramped up I couldn't wiggle back around the hatch support. That spider would be fat, dumb, and happy after eating me.
I am glad I didn't install the starboard. Thanks Liberty.
My thoughts were that it has to be better than no backing plates. But if I am going to add backing plates, I might as well do it right and go with AL or SS.
I used 1/4” thick aluminum plate, it is far stronger than you need. I primed and painted mine, an OCD issue on my end. You don’t even need to paint.
www.cut2sizemetals.com
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI