342 swim platform backing plates

Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
Replaced the stacks of washers used on the bolts to fasten the swim platform on. Used 2.5” x 5” AL plates. Plenty of support now!


Past owner of a 2003 342FV
PC BYC, Holland, MI

Comments

  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,379 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nice! Would love to do this long term, don’t love the washer stacks. Is this for more support for your dinghy?
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2018
    @Black_Diamond....beautiful work! One of the most important areas of a 342 (or any boat with an added-on swim platform) to upgrade. Great example (IMO) of how it should be done...and if my eyes don't deceive me - the plates are bedded in 3M or Sikaflex to ensure even contact and load....awesome!
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I did bed the plates with 4200 equivalent.  

    Will help spread the load better with my dinghy. Esp with the Lk Mich waves!  I was seeing some stress from the washers, likely from over tightening when it was built. One of those things that just kept bothering me.  lol  there were (2) bolts I could not use the plates on: one was in a corner and the other was drilled thru at a bad angle thru a radius on the transom wall. So 16/18 have backing plates now. 

    I got the plates cut to size from:

    https://www.cut2sizemetals.com/aluminum/plate/apl/

    6061 Al, 1/4” thick.  I primed and painted them too.  Just looks nicer. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You can see one of the bolts without the plate. Left side of pic. Crappy install at factory.  

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    That looks great!  & I know what you mean by bothering you.  I end up having some things like that, I add it to my list and think about it for a while.  & it continues bothering me till I figure out the best way to handle it.  Good job!  (& now I'll have to look at mine :) )

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    What about the platform side?????
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Platform side looks good.  The upper bolts go thru the thin (upper deck) section and the platform wall against the transom is probably 2x as thick. The lower bolts go thru the much thicker transom wall. 

    If I ever need to tend to the platform side, I’ll pull the whole platform to seal. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,578 ✭✭✭✭
    thanks ill take a look at mine hopefully real soon 
  • McGarnicleMcGarnicle Member Posts: 245 ✭✭✭
    Did you have to replace the bolts too, or just slide the plate on and re-tighten?

  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I left the bolts in place, otherwise it means resealing everything. Either use a friend to hold the platform side bolt from turning, or use a pait of nuts on the threaded side and jam them. Then a wrench can hold the bolt while loosening the lock nut. The latter is what I did. Mine were 3/8” bolts, 9/16” wrenches. Those ratchet box end wrenches with the flexible ends are perfect for this!

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • StodgeStodge Member Posts: 2,738 ✭✭✭✭
    I like the idea of backing plates there.  But I'd be leaning toward stainless.  Also looking for support rods to run from the end of the platform to the transom.  My platform has none.  Might be overkill but I'd feel better with them on....if it's possible.

    Any ides on where to get stainless plates like BD found?

    2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX

  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You can get SS plates from the same website.  

    More $ for SS, harder to drill too.  Really no corrosion issue to be concerned with using AL. I liked the 6061 AL as it can flex a bit to deal with a non-smooth/flat surface,  SS would be quite rigid at .25” thick. 

    You’ll 2-3x the cost using SS. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • StodgeStodge Member Posts: 2,738 ✭✭✭✭
    My concern would be the strength of the aluminum.  Am I over reacting or would the plates bend over time?

    2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX

  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The only way the plates would bend is if the fiberglass behind them totally failed.  Like pulling thru. Mine fit well against the hull and I bedded them in with 4200. Washer under the self locking nut and the compression load is spread out over 11 in2 more area than just the washer alone. 

    Doing the plates I used in SS was a near $500 bill. AL was like $150 or so. Or close.  

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • StodgeStodge Member Posts: 2,738 ✭✭✭✭
    What size hole did you have to drill into the plates @Black_Diamond?

    I can save about $40 by ordering 9 plates at 2.5x10 and cutting them in half.  ;)

    2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX

  • StodgeStodge Member Posts: 2,738 ✭✭✭✭
    Got my plates.  Just have to drill and cut them in half.  @Black_Diamond do yo remember what size hole you had to drill into them?

    2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX

  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    They are 3/8” bolts. I went 1/16” over (7/16”). 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • StodgeStodge Member Posts: 2,738 ✭✭✭✭
    Thanks!!  Time to make some holes.

    2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX

  • StodgeStodge Member Posts: 2,738 ✭✭✭✭
    Got them put in yesterday.  Man am I sore.  

    2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX

  • Dude_HimselfDude_Himself Member Posts: 596 ✭✭✭
    You too @Stodge?

    I have the integrated swim platform (2007 280 EC), and added a grill mount to the starboard side by the cleat. I had my wife hold the screws from the outside while I wiggled on my belly, over the blackwater holding tank, to reach the backside. I watched a Black Widow crawling on her web near the rear of the 496 as I added washers, nylock nuts, then tried to spray them with lube (to prevent the stainless hardware from galling). The wife had to run off a few times to check on the kids while I laid there, waiting, in a very uncomfortable position, watching this Black Widow and wondering how fast she could really move. By the time we got all 6 tightened I was almost stuck - my core and lower back were so cramped up I couldn't wiggle back around the hatch support. That spider would be fat, dumb, and happy after eating me.
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,578 ✭✭✭✭
    I need to do this also been down there all weekend water pump re install added a air filter for the holding tank and put in a power inverter that the seller of the boat gave me but never installed .sore back and legs and a few cuts 
  • mipandmipand Member Posts: 13
    I am glad I found this thread.  Thanks for the post as I am a novice to boating repairs.  I had water leaking into transom from the swim platform bolts this year on a 2005 Rinker 320. I had removed my swim platform completely to dry out the holes.  I did not like the way the washers were digging into the Fiberglass and warped,  so I had bought Starboard to use as backing plates.  After reading this post, I wonder if the Starboard will be good enough since much of the conversation was about Stainless or AL plates.  Does anyone have opinions about using starboard as backing plates? 
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,379 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Starboard is HDPE, it’s plastic, great stuff but it will flex and compress far more than metal. Best backing plate method would be a metal mentioned above. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • mipandmipand Member Posts: 13

    I am glad I didn't install the starboard.  Thanks Liberty. 

    My thoughts were that it has to be better than no backing plates. But if I am going to add backing plates, I might as well do it right and go with AL or SS.

  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,379 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Agree that it’s probably better than nothing, I used starboard as backing plates many years ago to back a sailboat stancion and it did work, but aluminum or SS is the right material for backing 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You really do not need the weight nor expense of stainless. You are just spreading out the load. 6160 aluminum cuts and drills easy. Polar opposite for stainless, very poor machinability. 

    I used 1/4” thick aluminum plate, it is far stronger than you need. I primed and painted mine, an OCD issue on my end. You don’t even need to paint. 

    www.cut2sizemetals.com

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • mipandmipand Member Posts: 13
    Black diamond, thanks that was my next question was if I could order a sheet of it and cut myself.  Thanks
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I think you can order about any size from them. Big sheet shipping might be $ though. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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