Dual Battery Switch Operation

randys58randys58 Member Posts: 14 ✭✭
in Electrical Discussions

New Rinker Owner here with a Captive 232 CC. Dealer told me to switch batteries to '2' before starting and operating the boat. After using the boat switch back to 'off'. Two questions, is turning the batteries off at the end of a trip needed and is operating on both batteries all the time correct?

Thanks,

Randy

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  • BabyboomerBabyboomer Member Posts: 918 mod
    Use #1 to start and #2 when your on the hook that way you always have a fresh battery no need to turn off and never never ever move the switch when engine is running it will cause your wallet to get very thin.

    Slip 866 Sunset Marina Byrdstown Tn
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  • randys58randys58 Member Posts: 14 ✭✭
    That's confuses me. If I operate on #1 while under power and #2 when not, how will #2 ever re-charge (note: this boat has no on board generator or shore power facilities). Seems I would have to run on #2 sometimes so the alternator could maintain the charge.
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  • BabyboomerBabyboomer Member Posts: 918 mod
    Both Batteries charge no matter where the switch is in OFF your bilge still runs and fridge if you have one.


    Slip 866 Sunset Marina Byrdstown Tn
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  • BabyboomerBabyboomer Member Posts: 918 mod
    Try this! Think of the two batteries as two buckets of water. Think of the alternator (actually the charging system) as a pump. The pump therefore fills the buckets. In your case, the alternator fills (charges) the batteries. Think of the switch as a valve that lets you select which bucket you want to use to power your stuff. So -- with the switch in the OFF position, the system is dead. You can't start the engine or run any accessories because all electricity is turned off. In the BAT 1 position, you have selected the START battery to run ALL of your accessories, including starting the engine. In the BAT 2 position you have selected the auxiliary or deep cycle battery to power all accessories including starting the engine. In the BOTH position, both batteries are tied together to form one great big battery and again, the two batteries power everyting. OK, we've covered the USE of the electricity. The opposite happens when the engine is running. BAT 1 gets CHARGED (e.g., bucket #1 filled) with the switch in BAT 1, BAT 2 gets charged when the switch is set to BAT 2, and both are charged with the switch in BOTH. Typical use of the switch is to switch to BAT 1 to start the engine. Then switch to BOTH so both batteries are on-line and being charged. When you stop to fish or listen to tunes, switch to BAT 2 so you don't run down the start battery. When you are ready to go you switch to BAT 1, start the engine, then switch back to BOTH and away you go. BUT -- if you have anything wired directly to either of the batteries you are defeating the purpose of the switch. Everything should be connected to the COM (common) terminal on the switch. You can actually start the engine in any switch position except OFF. If you only stop for a few minutes there is really no need to set the switch to any position except BOTH since you would not have run down either battery any significant amount. If you have high power electronics or a trolling motor which are high current draw components, then you do want to "save" the start battery so you are advised to switch to BAT 2 when running those items. You NEVER set the switch to OFF with the engine running as it will immediately fry the regulator. The long and short of this, is that the switch allows you to isolate the start battery so you don't accidentally run it down. It also allows you to switch to BAT 2 for starting if BAT 1 fails for some reason.

    Slip 866 Sunset Marina Byrdstown Tn
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  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,045 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You can start the day on #1 then when you anchor and shut down switch to #2 for radio and such. Then when its time to go back to the dock run on the #2 battery to charge it back up. This way you will always have one charged battery on the way home and 2 charged batteries for the next time you go back out.
    2008 330EC
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  • MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,976 ✭✭✭✭✭

    Not sure about that procedure bud.  If you are wired same as my boat, #1 keeps both the house circuit and crank circuit separate. #2 bridges them together. It is never a good idea to bridge both circuits unless your crank battery dies on you and you can't start the boat.

    Second thing I was told is never turn a batter switch while the engine is running. This can create surge which will blow the isolators.

    Anyhone want to chime in and correct me if I wrong. I'd really like to know.

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

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  • bat32bat32 Member Posts: 161 ✭✭✭

    We are getting a little off track.  First both batteries charge no matter the position of the switch.  Second, If you are on the hook you need to shut the boat down then switch the battery switch to on e or the other (my deep cell is on number two) if both are cranking batteries it doesn't matter.  The when you leave turn the boat off and switch back to the other battery to ensure a good start.  It is a correct statement not to switch battery positions while the boat is on.  I did this one time by accident while just the ignition was in the on position and blew a fuse.  

     

    Now, I used to run on "both" all the time until when on the hook.  This is  until someone brought up the fact if your alternator goes out underway you will have no reserve to get back home. 

     

    I think everyone is on  the same page here just explaining it a little differently.

     

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  • mvnmvn Member, Moderator Posts: 753 mod
    edited June 2013
    Sorry guys but I think I'm going to confuse things here a bit.   First of all,  my sport boat didn't come with isolator; therefore the switch position dictates which battery is being used AND charged.   Only in Both are both batteries being charged. 

    Second point.... you can switch batteries while the engine is running as long as you don't switch it to OFF and the switch is a "make before break"  style or it has a field disconnect wire. 

    Please correct me if I am off base. BTW,  Boomer's novel is a great explanation. 

    Mark
    Post edited by mvn on
    Good,  fast,  cheap.... pick two. 
    2019 MTX20 Extreme
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  • mvnmvn Member, Moderator Posts: 753 mod
    Alswagg said:
    All Rinkers from around 1998 on up have an automatic charging system for Dual batteris or multiple batteries.  This is either a Battery Isolator or an automatic switching relay.  This is of coarse only applicable if the system was installed OEM at Rinker.   Many dealerships are so cheap and irrisponsible they do not install the nessesary charging additions, but will charge you as if they did.   Just because you bought it with  dual batteries does not mean the factory installed.   Good luck  Al
     
    Good to know Al.  You learn something every day here!
     
    My '08 226 has dual batteries but the system was installed by one of the "irresponsible" dealers.  It has neither an isolator nor an automatic switching relay.  I have been planning to add an isolator myself this summer.
     
    Mark
     
     
    Good,  fast,  cheap.... pick two. 
    2019 MTX20 Extreme
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  • Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,026 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My '98 232cc didn't have dual batteries from the factory, so I added a dual setup. I ran for 2 seasons without the isolator. After that, I added the isolator so that I have two charged batteries at all times. Better to be safe than sorry.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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  • mvnmvn Member, Moderator Posts: 753 mod

    Any one use one of these?  You don't get the voltage drop like you do with isolators......

    http://www.bluesea.com/products/7610/SI-ACR_Automatic_Charging_Relay_-_12_24V_DC_120A

    Mark

    Good,  fast,  cheap.... pick two. 
    2019 MTX20 Extreme
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  • melvynmelvyn Member Posts: 19 ✭✭
    Babyboomer said:
    Try this! Think of the two batteries as two buckets of water. Think of the alternator (actually the charging system) as a pump. The pump therefore fills the buckets. In your case, the alternator fills (charges) the batteries. Think of the switch as a valve that lets you select which bucket you want to use to power your stuff. So -- with the switch in the OFF position, the system is dead. You can't start the engine or run any accessories because all electricity is turned off. In the BAT 1 position, you have selected the START battery to run ALL of your accessories, including starting the engine. In the BAT 2 position you have selected the auxiliary or deep cycle battery to power all accessories including starting the engine. In the BOTH position, both batteries are tied together to form one great big battery and again, the two batteries power everyting. OK, we've covered the USE of the electricity. The opposite happens when the engine is running. BAT 1 gets CHARGED (e.g., bucket #1 filled) with the switch in BAT 1, BAT 2 gets charged when the switch is set to BAT 2, and both are charged with the switch in BOTH. Typical use of the switch is to switch to BAT 1 to start the engine. Then switch to BOTH so both batteries are on-line and being charged. When you stop to fish or listen to tunes, switch to BAT 2 so you don't run down the start battery. When you are ready to go you switch to BAT 1, start the engine, then switch back to BOTH and away you go. BUT -- if you have anything wired directly to either of the batteries you are defeating the purpose of the switch. Everything should be connected to the COM (common) terminal on the switch. You can actually start the engine in any switch position except OFF. If you only stop for a few minutes there is really no need to set the switch to any position except BOTH since you would not have run down either battery any significant amount. If you have high power electronics or a trolling motor which are high current draw components, then you do want to "save" the start battery so you are advised to switch to BAT 2 when running those items. You NEVER set the switch to OFF with the engine running as it will immediately fry the regulator. The long and short of this, is that the switch allows you to isolate the start battery so you don't accidentally run it down. It also allows you to switch to BAT 2 for starting if BAT 1 fails for some reason.

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  • melvynmelvyn Member Posts: 19 ✭✭
    A really good bit of advise well put . Pity things like this are not in the manuel 
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  • hilderbjhilderbj Member Posts: 1 ✭
    Newbie to forum here.  I have a 2000 242 Fiesta Vee.  It has what appears to be factory installed switch and isolator.  Problem I'm having is the alternator only kicks in when battery 2 or "both" is selected.  Gauge on dash shows the alternator NOT to be charging when switch is on battery 1.  I just installed new batteries and have checked battery switch for corrosion.  Boat only has 160 hrs and is very clean.  I spoke with a dealer who thought the isolator might be bad.  Any suggestions?  Perhaps it is set up exactly as it should be - but I didn't get any manuals with the boat.  Thanks!  John
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  • ClintonClinton Member Posts: 44 ✭✭

    I have a 2000 242 fiesta vee. Mine doesn't charge properly on either battery from what I can tell from the voltage gauge. barely gets to 12 volts. And as soon as I use anything especially the spot light or trim tabs it drops all the way down to 9.5 volts. Doesn't seem like a good thing to me. All of this is very confusing to me (first time larger boat owner) I have never had a 2 battery system. Would love to just have someone give that ahha answer. It would really help to get absolute clarity on the answer. I have only owned the boat for 2 weeks and really not want to start with major upgrades. Changing an alternator is the issue. That's and easy fix. Already had it off once. If this was a pick-up truck that would have been my first move seeing since I have 2 brand new batteries on this boat. But it's a boat and I know from reading all of everyone's post that it is very possible it could be a wide range of other issues that I have no clue about. Thanks for any help. Clint


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