Where can I get these connectors?

Kaptain_Ken

Hi everyone.  Forgive me if this was covered in another thread, but I couldn't find it.  I have a 2000 FV 270 and need to replace a few of the A/C connectors.  They look similar to the one below.  They come in various colors and configurations depending on the circuit to which they are connected.  I've looked high and low and can't find them anywhere.  Anybody have a clue?  Thanks.

Handymans342

Molex plugs??

raybo3

Not sure what this plugs into but can you just cut off the connectors and butt splice the wires together????

diggin2day1

Not sure if they carry that connector, but try here: http://www.newark.com/

Handymans342

Some of us were asking about the main engine harness plug and how to replace that. I have seen a few corroded ones and I have 1 wire jumped out. 

Cableguy Greg

That connector is on the 120VAC side of the electrical system. I have no clue as to where to get them.

dalek

I'm pretty sure these are Powerpole connectors from Anderson Power Products.
You will probably be able to change the internal connectors  and keep the shell.
See similar attached. Not sure these are exactly what you want, just something to point you in the right direction.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/heavy-duty-power-connectors/0534985/
https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-chassis-mount-plug-latch-4

Ian

@dalek is correct, I found this branding when I was looking at the hot water system connector as it seems mine is touchy at times. Look at https://www.andersonpower.com/

dalek

diggin2day1 said:

Not sure if they carry that connector, but try here: http://www.newark.com/

Yes they do.

Kaptain_Ken

dalek said:

I'm pretty sure these are Powerpole connectors from Anderson Power Products.
You will probably be able to change the internal connectors  and keep the shell.
See similar attached. Not sure these are exactly what you want, just something to point you in the right direction.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/heavy-duty-power-connectors/0534985/
https://powerwerx.com/powerpole-chassis-mount-plug-latch-4

Winner, winner, chicken dinner.  You are the man!  I actually need new shells and a few internals as well.  Thanks.

randy56

@dalek, you changed your profile, what is it?

dalek

randy56 said:

@dalek, you changed your profile, what is it?

It's a Dalek. Organic-machine space alien.
 Just across the bay from where I berth my 270 are the "Dr Who" studios, so these things are quite a common sight around here. I've even seen them on a boat.

aero3113

I had to look it up.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dalek

Stodge

I have a USB powered dalek on my desk at home.  Though I was a fan of Dr. Who during the Tom Baker years. 

Ian

Okay, here's an odd question and based on my findings, it applies to this connector. Is there something odd with these like an internal overload? Reasons to question:

a) Occasionally - often at startup after winter - there's no hot water when on shore power. Digging around I found this at the hot water system and pulled the 2 halves apart, looked and clicked back in and after that all seems okay. I thought maybe after launch and bumping around something jostles loose and I remake the connection. But.....

b) Twice now an instantaneous overload condition - had microwave going and forgot and hit the kettle for the admiral's tea - I hear a click and the shore power light drops and no power - AC line is still good. The very first time this happened it was after a cruise and after pulling power etc and back on with nothing, I thought maybe a loose connection, spark and disconnect so I pulled panel. Found the lead in with these connectors, split open, looks good, put back and then all is well. Hmmm.

c) Yesterday at dock, not out since back Sunday same thing - hear click, no AC led, thinking maybe a thermal overload so I left shore power disconnected at incoming socket on hull for at least 60 mins and with breaker off. Come back, plug in, flip on breaker - nyet. Take out 4 screw to panel, pull it, unsnap same connector and plug in - up it comes. It's like these have a mechanical function.

I haven't had a chance to look at these devices but anyone care to add thought - besides I am way off on my idea

Handymans342

No way they have a function. Sounds like bad contact

dalek

Did you insert the roll pin through the housing when you assembled it?

aero3113

Put some dielectric grease in the connector also to help prevent corrosion.

aero3113

With power on try wiggling the connector to see if you can get it to drop off again. Are you able to get in there and bend the tabs for a tighter connection?

Ian

dalek said:

Did you insert the roll pin through the housing when you assembled it?

Sorry, not sure what you mean here, they just snap together and the tabs hold things in place.

Oddly all seems tight and no rhyme nor reason for what I am observing.

dalek

The internal insulated parts of the connector have small hemispherical cutouts each side about halfway along. When these are assembled into the housing, a pin should be pushed through the hole in the housing which locates them. All four are held in place with a single pin.

Ian

Had the opportunity to look more closely - with glasses on too - and can see some connector issues and in fact took the one of for the water heater and butt joined for now. Will replace these before next launch.

And yes, I worked out the pin that @dalek mentioned, made sense with a closer look.

Kaptain_Ken

And for the record if anyone else has to replace these, you should use the PP45 (45 Amp) connector pins.  It appears that's what Rinker used even though  it's a 30 amp circuit.  There are runs where multiple wires share a single pin and the the only way it will really fit correctly is to use the 45 amp pins.

But...If you truly want to help yourself, replace these altogether with something entirely water resistant.  The freshwater pump in my 2000 270 developed a leak that was only apparent when the pump was pressurized.  It was spewing water into the wiring harness which was contained in a wire loom and located directly under the pump.  I discovered this when my battery charger breaker kept tripping.  Opened the hatch and found everything wet.  Turned on pump, saw the water spraying onto the charger (Pronautic 1240P which is technically a dry mount charger) and  smelled smoke.  Assumed the charger was toast.  Replaced pump.  Almost replaced charger but turned it all back on after a few days drying time and heard sizzling and smelled smoke again and charger tripped again.  Turned out the wire loom was full of water and the non-waterproof Anderson connections in the loom were frying.  I dried it all out, replaced the connections with the Andersons I had purchased for my new water heater and everything was fine.  Even the charger!  I highly recommend the Pronautic now!!  Then I wrapped everything up really well with waterproof  tape.  I hope this helps someone.

Kaptain_Ken

For those who are interested, here’s some pictures of the offending connectors that tried to kill me.  LOL.

Ian

Wow, not good. I have a little burning on one and the hot water connector fell apart so I am replacing. Problem is they are so modular they are like a Lego kit of parts and asked them to give me a list of all the bits with no answer so far. However I have also wondered if I should just go with an alternate heavy duty connector, after all it's just a power feed.

raybo3

Just change them out. They do not have to be the same. I used butt slices on mine and heat shrink. If I need to replace the water heater I will take the wires right off of the water heater. You have to take them off anyway when replacing. This should be a $1.50 fix.............. Just say'n

Ian

Yeah, just got a reply and for a 3 wire connector it's like a dozen parts each side and other choices as to liver or tin contact, high or low mating force, philips or slot screws.....
I'll get me a 3 pin locking plug and socket pair x 3 and make them all the same. Seems these can work loose and start to spark over time.

raybo3

No spark with my butt splices and heat shrink.........