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Trim won't go up!

onislandtimeonislandtime Member Posts: 309 ✭✭✭
Portside drive only will go up with trailer trim. Does anyone have pictures of jumping the wires for a quick fix?

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    Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,330 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There are small cheap solenoids on the pump that go bad 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

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    onislandtimeonislandtime Member Posts: 309 ✭✭✭
    @Liberty44140 How do I check if it's the solenoid that has gone bad?
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    By jumping across the terminals on the solenoid
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    onislandtimeonislandtime Member Posts: 309 ✭✭✭
    2 mechanic now have told me to just jump the wires and be careful not to trim all the way up. Why don't they want to replace the trim limit switch??
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Cause you have to pull the drive
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    J3ffJ3ff Member Posts: 4,060 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mine does the same. no big deal .. 
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    jhofmannjhofmann Member Posts: 430 ✭✭✭
    The sending units and or wires going to them omly seem to last 5-6 years before going bad, and are a pain in the a$$ to replace. I have bypassed the sending on my last 2 mercruisres.
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    onislandtimeonislandtime Member Posts: 309 ✭✭✭
    @jhofmann can you describe how to bypass and pics of how too?
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    bella-vitabella-vita Member Posts: 411 ✭✭✭
    edited April 2018
    Just use the trailer trim,listen and don’t go to high mine has never worked.
    2002 Rinker FV 342
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    jhofmannjhofmann Member Posts: 430 ✭✭✭
    There are 2 sets of wires black  ( side by side like a lamp cord ) that go though the transom, one set is for the trim gauge on the dash, the other set is for the limit switch that stops the outdrive from going up too high. I believe only the one for the limit switch go to the trim pump. cut this side by side wire near the pump, and connect the two wires together. You may be able to make a jumper wire connecting the two terminals if you don't want to cut the existing wires. This will allow you to use your trim up button to raise the drive. Sorry no pictures, boat is still put away from the winter. Just be carefull you don't trim up too far, or you will start to cavitate. This is from memory as it has been several years since I had this issue.
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Its also bad for the U joint
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    onislandtimeonislandtime Member Posts: 309 ✭✭✭
    Okay I'm actually cutting the limit switch wires and connecting the ends coming off the pump, correct?
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    rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,242 ✭✭✭✭✭
    If the limit switch is bad, would not the drive still go up? Just would not have the function of the switch? Just ordered new ones- the trim still worked, just could not control the limit.
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    jhofmannjhofmann Member Posts: 430 ✭✭✭
    The limit switch breaks the electrical connection when it hits the pre-set limit, and stops the pump from lifting, requiring you to use the trailer up to lift the outdrive any higher. Often times the contacts in the switch go bad, and no connection will be made regaurdless of posistion. By cutting the wires that go to the limit switch, and connecting them together  (near the pump is usually the most convient spot to access them) you bypass the limiit switch on the drive and basically turn the trim-up switch into another trailer-up switch. Hitting the trailer-up switch every time you need to trim up can be awkward.  I have seen people take the limit switch apart on the drive and clean it, sometomes this works, but usually only for a short time.


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    jhofmannjhofmann Member Posts: 430 ✭✭✭
    If you google " bypassing mercruiser limit switch" you will come across several articles and diagrams that may help. The main concern with bypassing the switch is if you are operating the boat and your trim-up switch sticks ( or your not paying attention ) you can lift the outdrive all the way up, which at speed can damage the u-joints and/or the bearings on the input shaft. 
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    jhofmannjhofmann Member Posts: 430 ✭✭✭
    The biggest hassle with changing the limit switch and trim indicator is where the wires go through the tramsom. You need to remove the outdrive, and the bellhousing to access the clamp and through hull fitting, and boats with limited engine space, it's difficult to access this area from inside the boat due to it being down low behind the engine. Changing the switch itself is easy, 2 screws and 2 electrical connections. There are aftermarket companies on the web that sell kits where you cut the original wires and leave them there, drill a hole through the transom above the waterline, and install a provided stainless steel watertight through hull fitting to run the new wires through into the boat. it's supposed to be a 30 minute do it yourself job versus a 4 hour job at the shop. best thing is when thay go again, its only 15 minutes to change them next time. I may try this soon.
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    GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Member Posts: 1,560 ✭✭✭✭
    Mine are don't work also I took a look this year and found one of the wires had come disconnected and thought I got lucky ..but the trim indicator still isn't working I think Ill look into the replacements jhofmann just mentioned 
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    reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    In the harness buy the distributor you will find these wires you can unplug and connect.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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    onislandtimeonislandtime Member Posts: 309 ✭✭✭
    Thanks guys for all the views and have a more understanding of why the mechanics say "just bypass the switch" lol.
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