Charging issue

LaRea

Is it just the photo, or is there some discoloration that looks like scorching on a couple of those cable boots?

JoeStang

Wow, you're right. I didn't see it in person because it's hard to get to. I stuck my phone above it and took a pic. 

The problem started when I was using a automotive charger on the docks at put-in-bay for the weekend. (I know, please no bashing). It was a smart charger connected to the house battery just to keep it charged for the weekend. 

I also blew my drive down trim solenoid that weekend, so I likely had some kind of power surge. Maybe the burn mark on the isolator shows that? 

reneechris14

@JoeStang that center wire is directly from the alternator  (Volt meter to verify) 
Varify the start and house #1. #2.
12.7 engine off
14.+ or - after engine fires up
Check this at back of alt. then center pin 
Now check the other pins on the isolator.
(This is where my charger connected)
The pins should show 14.+ or - if so the battery should so 14.
My guess is the +wire form the isolator is not connected to the house battery.

Cableguy Greg

I would start at the isolator. That seems like the common point. If you were charging just the house battery, the isolator probably didn't like the current running backwards thru it. Think of it as a one way valve.

zaverin1

Replace it 
since it’s really down to the isolator or the switch now 

JoeStang

Yeah I'm gonna start with the isolator, mostly because it's easier to get to and sounds like more likely the issue.

Dude_Himself

Looking at the photo again: my guess is a loose connection. That would cause heat, which would cause carbon buildup, which would increase resistance and start an endless cycle. Until it wasn't passing any current. This would discolor the caps (as seen) and lead to one side of the isolator not charging.

If the isolator is still good.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oqCUyJ2P3yI

JoeStang

So I finally got around to swapping the isolator with a new unit. It was the culprit.

What looked like burn marks on the rubber boots was not from heat, it appeared to be grease/dirt from whoever installed it from the factory.

Voltage to all batteries is 13.8-14.0 regardless of switch position now, which is how it should be. Now I wont have to constantly move the switch back & forth depending if I'm running or anchored.

Dream_Inn

Great find Joe!  As I've said, I went thru an isolator last spring as well.