Overspeed Alarm and Thoughts on Fix
Autodog61
Member Posts: 92 ✭✭
Ok, so I need some opinions and in spite of the beating I am about to take, I am going to incriminate myself as the cause - Likely will help others too. So, I left the trim limit switch on as well as the main switches a month ago and last week went to take the 2002 342 Fiesta Vee out for a run. Both batteries were low so rather than charge them as they are way more than 5 years old, went to marine store and got two 1,000 CCA lead acids to replace. Installed. What I didn't pay attention to, the starboard battery is reversed in orientation to the port. Of course, I didn't realize and connected the starboard battery up reverse polarity. This of course set off the main fuse on the starboard engine (obviously a system protection for such idiots like me). Not know yet, I tried to turn the engines over. Of course the port fired right up but the starboard starter just spun - Didn't engage the solenoid to kick the gear against the flywheel. Hmmm. After some thought I pushed the reset red breaker on the engine and this caused the breaker on the dash to open. Finally realized my mistake. Connected starboard battery correctly, reset fuse on dash, now and starboard engine fires and runs fine. The problem is I am getting a continuous alarm. The starboard Tach shows 2,500 RPM at idle so I am guessing the alarm is an overspeed alarm. All other gauges, oil pressure, voltage show normal. I do have a Rinda techmate and will hook up to see what it says but curious if any one has an opinion here - Keep the beating to a minimum please. Its goofy that both batteries aren't placed the same orientation in their boxes.........Bah!
Answers
Well, don't beat yourself up too badly. Just this past weekend I had to change out my house batteries and the guy that was in there helping me has the same boat, just a year older and said "hmm, one of your batteries are oriented the opposite of mine". It just go to show that two identical boats, a year apart can have them differently. Might just be how the owner installs them as well.
As far as your alarm, overspeed sounds like the culprit. Will be curious what the Rinda tells you.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
I'd be scared that you fried the ECM. Not sure how 2 reverse polarity jolts would affect it. The first one may not have been an issue since the breaker at the motor most likely protected it. But resetting the breaker with the battery backward would have let the ECM have a good jolt.
Fingers crossed that it's just grumpy and not fried.
2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
Well, I just got the Rinda Techmate Pro data (what a cool little reader). In addition to collecting the data, when I went back to the boat this AM, started the starboard engine and there is no alarm. Idles great. Tachometer has settled a bit and is reading 2,000 RPM (see data from Rinda below, actual reading should be 700 RPM).
Here is the current data (some questions below):
4 fault codes (all active):
94 - Pitot Pressure (Boat Speed Sensor low)
75 - Fuel Level Circuit (High); Gas gauge has been DOA on starboard for several months
119-Steering Circuit Position (Low); Do I care about this? No autopilot so why/
130 - Trim Sensor Circuit High
So of these codes, the one I think that was causing the continuous alarm may have been 94. But, why no alarm today? ECM re-learning?
Now for the other data at Idle (bold indicates I have a question):
RPM at idle: 700
Available Power: 100%
Guardian Cause: Not Specified (meaning only faults and no Limp Mode activated?)
Coolant Temp: 80F
Man. Pressure: 7.2
Bar. Pressure: 14.7
Man. Air temp: 64F
TPS Volts Position #1: 0.55V
TPS Position #1: 0.1
IAC Duty Cycle: 99.9%
Oil Pressure 46.1 psi (crappy Faria gauges shows more like 30)
Spark Advance: about 8 degrees at idle hovers between 6 and 9
Battery Volts: 11.7 (seems low for new battery, did I fry it or the alternator? Tech at the boat yard suggested this was the low end of Normal range)
Sensor Power: 5.01V
Fuel Level; 1023#
Trim Volts: 5V
Trim Position 1023# (weird because is matches fuel level. Remind you the fuel gauge for months has been non-function on Starboard).
Pitot Pressure: ADC=0
Lake/Sea Temp: 429F (yes it was 429, no decimal in there. Obviously wrong)
Fuel Flow: 1.18 GPH (again at idle)
Oil temp 32F (again, way out of whack, probably more like 48-54F)
Fuel Pressure: 2.1 psi (huh, really? I suspect like auto injection, should be reading more like 40?)
Steering Position: 0 Degrees. Regardless on wheel Position (do I care?)
Guardian State: 1 This is the big question. Does the "1" mean normal operating?
So here's my summary: I think the voltage jolt made some sensors go whacky while other sensors have been that way for some time. The Tach at 2,000 RPM at Idle needs addressed. But, it was whacky last year and the Techs corrected it but never was really nat on. I am still going to have the Marine Techs eval the system. I think I got lucky this time. But, looking for any input from others as to catastrophic data above. I wont clear codes until techs eval and they can clear codes.
Any ideas about the "1: related to Guardian mode? I assume since 100% power the "1" indicates normal operations?
Also, anyone replaced their OEM Tachs with something better that is a direct fit?
I would put a volt meter in the back of the alternator, even at idle I get close to 14 .
Also turning the battery switch off will clear a soft code.
So this will be my last update to this thread unless others have questions. I have had the marine tech at the marina maintenance shop also look at the starboard engine operation/ECM. What he noted was that all systems were operating normal. Although I haven’t talked to him directly, the kid that schedules maintenance commented to me that the Tech noted that our set ups have an isolator that protects the ECM from things like reverse polarity. Hmmm….More on this below.
As I wasn’t there with him last week, this weekend I went to run the boat around to confirm systems were good and everything operating normal at idle and at speed. When I got to the boat today, I started both engines and first thing I noticed, startboard tachometer still out of whack reading 2,000 rpm at idle rpm (Grr, I asked tech to correct that). And, after short period (less than 2 minutes) I got a continuous alarm again. After isolating to port engine this time, I went through diagnostic testing. I got my Techmate pro out and connected to ECM. I also got a multimeter. Only three things cause continuous alarm: Temperature, low oil pressure, or Low voltage. Other alarms are series of beeps. Techmate showed port engine Battery voltage with engine off was 11.7V - Mulitmeter showed 12.2 and 12.7. Hmmm. With engine running at Idle, this dropped to 10,8V on the Techmate pro readout. Using this information I figured it was battery issued and after looking at 90 Amp breaker on top rear of port engine, I noticed that it was triggered. Not sure if the Tech did it last wee or not because it wasnt triggered before I reset, started again, and monitored. At 600 idle RPM , Techmate was reading 12.8 while multimeter was reading 13.72 - Confirming alternator was working properly and charging battery. Also, no alarm. Same things confirmed on starboard engine.
So, lessons learned here – 1) Don’t connect batteries reverse polarity. Bah! It happened to me because the batteries were installed 180 degrees out of phase to each other at some point in the past and I didn’t pay attention. When I connected the reverse positive it sparked but I assumed that was a typical as a car battery sometimes will bark when you first connect. If this happens don’t connect, do more evaluation to ensure your doing things correctly. 2) Our 6.2L MX systems have “isolators” that protect the ECM. Someone care to weigh in on this as I don’t know other than the criptic comment from the tech scheduler - Assume this is the 90A breaker by the ECM on each engine. 3) if you actually were to destroy and ECM (electric control Module) 555 on our set ups, it will be very costly and very difficult to find a replacement ECM as they are engine and manufacture specific. And then to find a Tuner that can make sure its set correctly! 4) There is a red 90A? main breaker on the rear of each engine that protects the entire ECM/electrical system. Maybe this is the “isolator” the tech mentioned, 5) RInda Techmate Pro with the optional 94006 adaptor (http://www.rinda.com/techmatepro/) along with a multimeter and temperature gauge are invaluable tools to keep on the boat (looking into the Vesselview blue tooth as an alternative as well). Without the ability to “se” what the ECM was seeing about the battery voltage, I wouldn’t have been able to troubleshoot that the continuous alarm was due to low battery as the main breaker on the port engine was tripped today.
I have attached so photos that others may find useful. Note someone asked about my battery setups and I included a photo that shows them located within the engine bay across the sterm of the boat. Two on starboard are the starters and the two on the port are the houses. Thanks for all the input here too all, It was helpful to my troubleshooting efforts.