Power for Amp

Willhound

Installing my new stereo and speakers today. I would pick the hottest day of the year!
Also just realized that I forgot to get the y cables that @Cableguy Greg mentions in this thread. https://rinkerboats.vanillaforums.com/discussion/8481/wiring-6-speakers-to-4-channel-amp-how-to-handle-fade-control#latest
Anyway, lots to do before I get to that.
The amp manual calls for a direct battery hook up with 8 gauge wire and then the remote on feed from the head unit turns it off and on. In a perfect world I'd like to take the feed from the acc position at the ignition switch, but I doubt the wire feeding it is anywhere near 8 guage thereby defeating the purpose. Correct?
Ok to take it from the back of the battery switch? I don't like the idea of taking it right off the battery.

F1100

your OEM headunit will have a +12v acc wire , you can use that ..OR you can run an actual switched 12v as well, so that you 100% make sure your headunit /amp turns off, and just run teh switch off a direct 12v supply

F1100

just make sure both ways are fused

F1100

here was my install I did last summer

F1100

also .. the actual switched acc wire is very small like 14-16 gauge.. all it does is tell the amp to turn on.  The amp needs the big wires for the + and -  power leads

redlightning

F1100 said:

just make sure both ways are fused

YES!!! At the battery.

LaRea

The ignition definitely can't run your stereo.  Ideally, it should come straight from the battery with #8 wire (which is like 3/16" diameter).  Include a terminal fuse block at the battery connection.  That way, if there's a short anywhere along the wire, the fuse will blow and prevent damage.  

I used one like this, available at West Marine.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

F1100

you should have a proper in line fuse right at the battery, and then use a power distribution block up stream to split the wires. and of course the amp will have its own fuse. I was also using the wiring to run a windlass as well so went overboard.

Willhound

All duly noted. Thanks @F1100 and everyone. The amp actually came wirh an install kit with 8 gauge twisted power wire and a 50 amp inline fuse. But although the amp is a marine amp the install kit is automotive based. So it has 17 feet of power wire but only 3 feet of ground because they figure you're grounding to chassis. Can't find anybody that stocks it. Gonna have to buy it online and wait. 

LaRea

It's always safest to put circuit protection at the battery.  With wires that thick, a short anywhere before the first circuit breaker could start a fire in a hurry.  An inline fuse at the amplifier doesn't protect the supply wire.  

Cableguy Greg

This place makes up great battery wires.
https://www.ezacdc.com/

Kaptain_Ken

Check here too.  Finding their pricing very competitive.  http://www.bestboatwire.com/custom-cables/custom-battery-cable-assembly

Willhound

Thanks guys. But Canada Eh? Need to find it in country for anything less than a week delivery and no duty. Have a line on a professional installer that can likely get me a piece.

Willhound

This is ridiculous. City of 150,000 and I can't find a single supplier for that 8 gauge twisted wire. Everybody orders it online but that's looking like a week delivery. I can get 8 gauge primary wire. Is there an issue with using that for my ground? Not mixing the wire on the same run,  but use the twisted for positive feed and the primary wire for the ground? Both 8 gauge. 

skennelly

You would be fine doing that.  There's no advantage to stranded wire besides being more flexible and easier to pull.

Do you have Amazon prime?  There's wire options there...but I'm not sure if prime works for Canada

Dream_Inn

Sorry, but I'd stick with stranded wire on a boat.  Primarily for crimping and connections staying on.

04FV270riverrat

@Willhound I just installed a new amp over the weekend and ran into the same problem. Install kit was for a car and only 3ft of ground. My kit had 4 gauge wire, which Lowe's and Home Depot both have in stock and they also have other gagues, not sure about in Canada.

Willhound

Thanks guys. Spoke with a young gear head at work that's into stereos and he gave me a few places to try. Will know for sure tonight.
Prime is available in Canada but still a 4 day delivery as it comes out of the US.

LaRea

Guys, no.  No solid wire on a boat.  It will eventually fatigue and break because of the vibration.  And like @Dream_Inn said, connectors won't stay tight.  Also, it's too stiff and makes installation much harder in the confined spaces of a boat.  Use only marine-grade stranded wire.  

Like with everything else on boats:  Imagine explaining to your insurance adjuster that your boat burned down the marina because you didn't want to wait a few days for the right kind of wire.  

Willhound

That does make sense. This suitable?
https://www.amazon.ca/Electrical-Battery-8-Gauge-25-Feet-ANCOR/dp/B01BES1U7S

LaRea

Yes, I used Ancor and it's a really nice product.  Each strand is tinned, so it resists corrosion better than un-tinned wire, and it's super-flexible.  

Willhound

LaRea said:

The ignition definitely can't run your stereo.  Ideally, it should come straight from the battery with #8 wire (which is like 3/16" diameter).  Include a terminal fuse block at the battery connection.  That way, if there's a short anywhere along the wire, the fuse will blow and prevent damage.  

I used one like this, available at West Marine.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5191/MRBF_Terminal_Fuse_Block_-_30_to_300A

@LaRea I bit the bullet and ordered this exact block and a 50 amp fuse along with 25 feet each of black and red Ancor 8 gauge cable and lugs from a marine supplier today. I see the sense now of coming right off the battery to the amp. Gonna take a few days to get here but that's just the way it goes. Have to find somebody with a lug crimper. And still have to find an 8 gauge lug that will fit the screw connection on the amp. 

LaRea

Glad to hear it.  When I built my system (I still need to post those details!), the high cost of wiring and circuit protection came as an unpleasant surprise that I forgot to include in my budget.  But you can't go cheap on it.  A short on a big supply wire could start a fire in a hurry.  

Willhound

You're right. About $160 CDN and 5 days to get here. It looks like the Ancor cable has a thicker casing than the automotive stuff I had so I need to find a connector that will fit the cable and the tiny little screw terminals on the amp. 

tk1973

Try Custom Audio and Video in Newmarket. http://www.customaudioandvideo.ca/

They did my last boat a red 30 Ft Donzi and just did my friends brand new Yamaha AR. 

Guys name is Chris, and you can tell him Tim with the Donzi and Jeff with the Yamaha suggested he call you. 

He he also does mobile stuff FYI if you get stuck. 

Willhound

Thanks @tk1973
Ordered from Binnacle last night. Arriving Monday which works for me. All marine grade wire and fusing. In the meantime I can run my speaker wire and the lighter gauge feeds for the speaker LED's and the head unit. Have another job too. When I pulled the fridge to track some of the wiring and pull the old CD changer out this is what I found. Bringing the rubber gloves, bleach and anti mold spray to the boat tomorrow!