Leaking Bomar hatch.

skennellyskennelly Member Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭✭
in Rinker Express Cruisers Forum
I've determine the hatch is leaking.  Thinking I need to remove and reseal.

Thoughts on sealing?  4200 or butyl tape?

Does butyl tape need to cure or is it instant seal?

Any other advice?
2002 - 270FV Mag 350 B3
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Comments

  • Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Tape is better
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  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited June 2018
    Butyl tape better. By far. Clean surfaces. Apply tape. Having done this before, dry fit the hatch. Likely to find gaps you need to compensate for with the tape thickness.  No cure time needed at all. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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  • skennellyskennelly Member Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭✭
    Cool.  How about removing the hatch and breaking the existing caulk / sealant.  I'm thinking a putty knife to slide under will do the trick?
    2002 - 270FV Mag 350 B3
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  • reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Painters tape to help for damage 
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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  • Autodog61Autodog61 Member Posts: 92 ✭✭

    One recommendation when removing the hatch.  In order to avoid damaging the gelcoat, make some small wood wedges.  Pry up with a putty knife but only in a small corner to start just enough to get the wedge under the hatch rim.  May need to place a thin piece of sheet steel on gelcoat when you pry up.  Once you get a corner started, slowly work the wood wedges in around the perimeter of the hatch.  Doing it this way will ensure you don't damage the glecoat getting the hatch to release.  They are brutally tough sometimes to get to release.  I used 4200 (5200 is rigid and not recommended for something you'll want to remove in the future).   Not sure about the butyl tape.  Never used it.  When I removed my OEM hatch on my pachanga, the manufacturer put WAY more caulk in than needed.  You can tell because the bead form was still in place.  You don't need to put great gobs in just get around the perimeter where the frame mates to the upper gel coat and along the inner core.  Also, take blue painters tape and put around the perimeter of the outer frame so that when the 4200 squeezes out when you screw down the hatch for permanent placement, cleanup will be easy. 

    Holy Smokes, don't forget the bilge plug!
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  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My hatches were only sealed with foam tape. Popped right off. Cleaning off the adhesive from the hatch and hull was the only work really. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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  • Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    A friend removed two hull windows from his Sea Ray that were - in our opinion -sealed with 5200. It pulled chunks of gelcoat and fiberglass out. It required the hiring of a glass guy. Fortunately he did a super job and you can't see the repair and years later no leaks. Like butyl tape. As @Autodog61 says go SLOW - slowly prying. We got the second window off much better. I sharpened a plastic drywall compound spreader (knife) to use in cutting the previous "caulk", put masking tape over the hull to reduce scratches and worked slowly using cedar shims.....hardly any damage on the second window.
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  • skennellyskennelly Member Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭✭
    Obviously I want to get his fixed asap, but I'm a bit afraid of tearing this thing out mid season...especially this weekend is a harborfest and then 4th coming up.

    I was going to do some initial investigation by taping around where the frame meets the deck and then hitting it with a hose to see if it still leaks...it could be the glass seal or the big rubber seal when the hatch closes that's leaking???
    2002 - 270FV Mag 350 B3
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  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    skennelly said:
    Obviously I want to get his fixed asap, but I'm a bit afraid of tearing this thing out mid season...especially this weekend is a harborfest and then 4th coming up.

    I was going to do some initial investigation by taping around where the frame meets the deck and then hitting it with a hose to see if it still leaks...it could be the glass seal or the big rubber seal when the hatch closes that's leaking???
    If it were me, since it's mid season and you don't want to lose boating time, I'd use some cheaper silicon seal and just put a bead around the unit.  Then in the fall it will come right off when you can do it right.  Just my thoughts anyhow. :)

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ooo. No no on the silicone. It will screw up future sealing, even butyl tape. Acrylic caulk or even the flex seal tape.  

    Almost certain to be leaking where it meets the deck. Easy to do imo. 

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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  • skennellyskennelly Member Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭✭
    @Black_Diamond - I'm not so worried about the hatch itself...I'm worried about unforeseen other problems...like additional water damage to the deck core ect.  Something that would really screw me mid season.
    2002 - 270FV Mag 350 B3
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  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ah ok. Almost certain the hatch is sealed with 2x sided tape on foam/weather stripping. It took me longer to clean the tape off than rebed the hatch. Just dry fit first!

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
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  • skennellyskennelly Member Posts: 2,196 ✭✭✭✭
    It turned out to be a loose latch screw.  It rained and I could see water coming in...broke out a screw driver and tightened it up.  No leak.
    2002 - 270FV Mag 350 B3
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