Hot water coming through cold lines

04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Lexington, KYPosts: 247Member ✭✭✭
hot water coming through cold lines

Post edited by 04FV270riverrat on
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  • aero3113aero3113 Long Island, NYPosts: 3,299Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Strange that you have “T’s” with the cross over line. Maybe the valve on the cold line needs to be turned?
    2008 330EC
  • StodgeStodge Lake St. ClairPosts: 2,672Member ✭✭✭✭
    Yeah that cross over from hot to cold seems odd.

    2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX

  • raybo3raybo3 Revere MAPosts: 4,370Moderator mod
    Those 2 Tee's makes no sense. I think they may have been added for winterizing but they should not be there........
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     [email protected]
  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Lexington, KYPosts: 247Member ✭✭✭
    Would I need a pex adapter to NPT to take the T's out or would those fittings screw right on to the brass fittings?
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Posts: 7,967Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thats a hot water bypass for winterizing. I would say the valve is not working 
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Posts: 7,967Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Try pointing it towards the heater
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Bay Village & Marblehead, OH.Posts: 2,568Member ✭✭✭✭
    Yea I’ve got the same set up as the pic but I don’t remember the valve shown on the cold side, wonder if it’s broken or should be open. 
    06' 342EC & 01' 310FV (both sold)

  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Lexington, KYPosts: 247Member ✭✭✭
    Yea I’ve got the same set up as the pic but I don’t remember the valve shown on the cold side, wonder if it’s broken or should be open. 
    the valve either directs the water into the tank (current position) or you can turn it to 90 the flow toward the left (in pic) toward the red line.
  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Lexington, KYPosts: 247Member ✭✭✭
    Maybe I need another valve on the hot water side like below....



  • AlswaggAlswagg Posts: 2,651Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    You have the wrong T valve installed.  That is a two way. You need a single way or you need to replace the other side with a valve as well.  Both will work fine.  As is you are mixing hot and cold water 
  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Lexington, KYPosts: 247Member ✭✭✭
    I guess I could just take the T's out and pipe them directly to the heater with these

    Flair-It 16873 RV Plumbing Swivel Coupling 12P x 12FPT BSP
  • WillhoundWillhound Lake Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaPosts: 2,258Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited June 2018
    That's what's on mine. I just pull them off the hot water tank and join them with a nipple to run pink anti freeze thru the lines when winterizing. 
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270
  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Greenwood Lake NY Posts: 848Member ✭✭✭
    no tee on mine just direct to the heater cold in and hot out  and I disconnect when I  winterize 
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTPosts: 2,352Member ✭✭✭✭
    @Handymans342 is right point the t to the heater.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTPosts: 2,352Member ✭✭✭✭
    2 tees  are the right way for winter.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • WildboatingWildboating Posts: 957Member ✭✭✭
    That is different, no tees on mine and knock on wood, still no problems winterizing.
    2003 Rinker 342 Fiesta Vee, 350 Mag MPI, Bravo 3 2.20:1 w/ 22p 4 x4 props

  • GMSLITHOGMSLITHO Greenwood Lake NY Posts: 848Member ✭✭✭
    when I winterize I just drain the tank and clear it with a shop vac then just winterize the water lines 
  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Lexington, KYPosts: 247Member ✭✭✭
    So I replaced the T setup with a straight in and straight out. I'm still getting hot water from the cold side of the faucets. Is there supposed to be a check valve on the inlet side of the tank? Maybe I'm missing that.
  • randy56randy56 Newburgh INPosts: 2,791Member ✭✭✭✭
    Are all faucets reversed? then reverse the line at the hot water heater.  
    Boat Name : Knot My Prolem

    2003 - 270
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Posts: 7,967Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yeah must be reversed under faucet
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Posts: 7,967Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Or cold and hot reveresed at heater
  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Lexington, KYPosts: 247Member ✭✭✭
    Ok so here's a new twist.

    I double checked all my blue lines were hooked to blue and red to red under the wire looms running in the engine compartment. 

    I added an inline check valve on the inlet blue line to the water heater. Once I turn the heater on and it gets warmed up I can feel heat on the blue inlet line between the check valve and the tank. My cold water in the boat is now just cold and the hot is just hot. All seems good.....until.....

    Now as soon as I turn on the cold faucet, the pump comes on and short cycles until you open the faucet up to get a solid stream of water then it just runs constantly until you shut the water off. Is their a bladder in the water heater that keeps the pressure until it bleeds off? Before when I was getting hot from the cold, I could turn the pump on a build up pressure, then open a cold faucet and run it for a little bit until the pressure lowered and the pump came on, now the pump runs as soon as you open the faucet. It only does this on the cold side though, not with the hot water faucets.
  • WillhoundWillhound Lake Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaPosts: 2,258Member ✭✭✭✭
    edited August 2018
    What you describe is pretty much how mine is.
    Pump comes on as soon as cold side opened. Short cycles at low opening, constant run on higher opening. Slight lag on the hot side presumably from a bit of pressure in hot water tank. But no bladder in tank that I'm aware of. Just like any marine or RV water supply pump they run on demand.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270
  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Lexington, KYPosts: 247Member ✭✭✭
    Willhound said:
    What you describe is pretty much how mine is.
    Pump comes on as soon as cold side opened. Short cycles at low opening, constant run on higher opening. Slight lag on the hot side presumably from a bit of pressure in hot water tank. But no bladder in tank that I'm aware of. Just like any marine or RV water supply pump they run on demand.
    maybe mine used to not run as soon as the faucet was opened because the hot water from the tank was running back out into the cold lines. Oh well, its great now having a constant temperature in the shower!
  • Dude_HimselfDude_Himself Charleston, SCPosts: 563Member ✭✭✭
    Have you bled all the air out of the hot water tank? That's the only thing I can think of that would cause all your symptoms. As the water heats up, with an air pocket, it will boil and expand, providing back pressure into the supply line.
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