So I replaced the T setup with a straight in and straight out. I'm still getting hot water from the cold side of the faucets. Is there supposed to be a check valve on the inlet side of the tank? Maybe I'm missing that.
I double checked all my blue lines were hooked to blue and red to red under the wire looms running in the engine compartment.
I added an inline check valve on the inlet blue line to the water heater. Once I turn the heater on and it gets warmed up I can feel heat on the blue inlet line between the check valve and the tank. My cold water in the boat is now just cold and the hot is just hot. All seems good.....until.....
Now as soon as I turn on the cold faucet, the pump comes on and short cycles until you open the faucet up to get a solid stream of water then it just runs constantly until you shut the water off. Is their a bladder in the water heater that keeps the pressure until it bleeds off? Before when I was getting hot from the cold, I could turn the pump on a build up pressure, then open a cold faucet and run it for a little bit until the pressure lowered and the pump came on, now the pump runs as soon as you open the faucet. It only does this on the cold side though, not with the hot water faucets.
What you describe is pretty much how mine is. Pump comes on as soon as cold side opened. Short cycles at low opening, constant run on higher opening. Slight lag on the hot side presumably from a bit of pressure in hot water tank. But no bladder in tank that I'm aware of. Just like any marine or RV water supply pump they run on demand.
What you describe is pretty much how mine is. Pump comes on as soon as cold side opened. Short cycles at low opening, constant run on higher opening. Slight lag on the hot side presumably from a bit of pressure in hot water tank. But no bladder in tank that I'm aware of. Just like any marine or RV water supply pump they run on demand.
maybe mine used to not run as soon as the faucet was opened because the hot water from the tank was running back out into the cold lines. Oh well, its great now having a constant temperature in the shower!
Have you bled all the air out of the hot water tank? That's the only thing I can think of that would cause all your symptoms. As the water heats up, with an air pocket, it will boil and expand, providing back pressure into the supply line.
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2002 FV 342 on Lake St. Clair - Past Commodore SHC - Vessel Examiner USCGAUX
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
I double checked all my blue lines were hooked to blue and red to red under the wire looms running in the engine compartment.
I added an inline check valve on the inlet blue line to the water heater. Once I turn the heater on and it gets warmed up I can feel heat on the blue inlet line between the check valve and the tank. My cold water in the boat is now just cold and the hot is just hot. All seems good.....until.....
Now as soon as I turn on the cold faucet, the pump comes on and short cycles until you open the faucet up to get a solid stream of water then it just runs constantly until you shut the water off. Is their a bladder in the water heater that keeps the pressure until it bleeds off? Before when I was getting hot from the cold, I could turn the pump on a build up pressure, then open a cold faucet and run it for a little bit until the pressure lowered and the pump came on, now the pump runs as soon as you open the faucet. It only does this on the cold side though, not with the hot water faucets.
Pump comes on as soon as cold side opened. Short cycles at low opening, constant run on higher opening. Slight lag on the hot side presumably from a bit of pressure in hot water tank. But no bladder in tank that I'm aware of. Just like any marine or RV water supply pump they run on demand.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)