Shift Control Tightness

SoulGravy

2003 342 with 5.7 Mercruisers.  The shift control box is very tight.  It makes it even harder to maneuver in tight spaces, parking, etc.  Had my mechanic replace shift cables at the end of last season to try and free it up.  It didn't help and it seems to be getting worse.  Any advice?  Anyone replace with another brand?  Link?  Is it a DIY job?

aero3113

There’s an adjustment at the throttles that can adjust the friction. Others will chime in on how to adjust. Hopefully that’s your issue.

SoulGravy

aero3113 said:

There’s an adjustment at the throttles that can adjust the friction. Others will chime in on how to adjust. Hopefully that’s your issue.

Thanks, I'll try that, but the mechanic did adjust those last year to no avail.  It's not like it's too tight all through the range, just super tight...until it's not...so when I'm trying to be precise, I have to give it a lot of muscle and then it "pops free" and makes me add way more throttle than I intended or needed.

aero3113

Also check for any tight bends on the cables.

Handymans342

Disconnect cables from the drives and see if they move freely

pistole

Keeping an eye on this. My 5.7s can also be pretty stiff at the controls. Am also experiencing occasionally - moving the lever to the first detent but the gearbox does not engage. A little more throttle and she engages

Dream_Inn

Could be the ball detent.  Do a google search for ball detent (or detent ball).  You can actually do this while the boat is in the water (if you have to).

Dream_Inn

Just to help you out, here is another forum link of someone doing that posted pics:

http://www.clubsearay.com/index.php?threads/sticky-shifting-issue-5-0-mpi-bravo3.42470/

Handymans342

I always wondered what was behind that plate!

04FV270riverrat

I'd like to tighten my throttle up a bit if possible. If I put it in forward through a no wake zone going about 1000 rpm, it'll randomly slide back to almost neutral with hardly any throttle.

pistole

04FV270riverrat said:

I'd like to tighten my throttle up a bit if possible. If I put it in forward through a no wake zone going about 1000 rpm, it'll randomly slide back to almost neutral with hardly any throttle.

There's a screw at the control binnacle which adjusts for tension

Spyderweb

I have the same problem on my 330 where one throttle will slip back to idle speed until I get over 1500 rpm or so.  Where on this binnacle is the "tightening screw" located?

merrickm

Dying to see where this goes.. I have been trying to fix both problems since I bought my boat

Handymans342

I couldnt even find any info on line on this control

dropout

See attached for throttle friction adjustment.

reneechris14

Thanks for the info.

Handymans342

@dropout can you find any more info??

dropout

Handymans342 said:

@dropout can you find any more info??

That's all the info there is for the friction adjustment. There is other info in the Mercruiser Commander 4000/4500 Controls manual that has installation/removal/assembly and components as well as shift/throttle cable installation.

Spyderweb

So it appears from my picture above that the top half (chromed part) is removed by the 2 screws and the adjustment screw is just below and left of the throttle handle. Problem I have is I don't see any screws on the chromed part (nor do I remember any when looking).  Is mine not a Commander 4500 Series?

dropout

Spyderweb said:

So it appears from my picture above that the top half (chromed part) is removed by the 2 screws and the adjustment screw is just below and left of the throttle handle. Problem I have is I don't see any screws on the chromed part (nor do I remember any when looking).  Is mine not a Commander 4500 Series?

You do have the same throttle. Take a close look and you will see the two screws to remove the chrome cover. There is a separate adjustment screw for each throttle.

Handymans342

I was wondering if there was any other throttle cable adjustments

Ian

I noted from his pic also that there appeared to be no screws but there are - the small black hole below the edge of the chrome over, one forward, the other aft.

I did this recently and note that the instructions say in part 3 to remove the 4 screws. I started to do one and it loosened then spun and then didn't tighten. uh ****, non-captive nuts underneath  so I instead pulled the 2 that go sideways holding the 2 units together. Be sure to make alignment marks on the pair so they are as you started and also with the nut and bolt to put back where they are now - unless you want to alter tilt a little. Once I slid them out I could then reach in and tighten the aforementioned non-captive nut again.

While you have it apart, pull off the black covers and check the lube there. If one of those rocker arms aren't lubed it will be stiffer plus may not always drop back into the right home or neutral position and hit the switch right - the reason I went through this in the first place.

Spyderweb

If I simply want to tighten the "friction adjustment", do I need to undo those 4 screws, and remove wire harness etc., or does all that have to be done just to access the "friction adjustment"?

Ian

Pop the cover and undo the 2 horizontals that hold them together and they'll slide up and you can get to friction screws. Unless you can reach the underside of the controller to hold the nuts for the 4 mounting screws, that's what I'd do.

Spyderweb

I assume the "2 horizontals" are what I have labelled in the above photo.  By "alignment marks" do you mean such that the left and right controller will be  positioned fore and aft relative to each other as before disassembling or is there more to it than that?  

Ian

Correct, those 2. Unless you can reach underneath to hold the nut, I couldn't on mine so undid these 2 and slid both up and you can adjust the friction screws, only needs a tweak. I did mine and much easier. 

Re alignment, just dot with a sharpie the center of the cross head to the mounting bracket so they go back the same place.

As suggested above, while out, pop the black covers and apply a little grease inside to the arms as well, that solved my issue of neutral switch not being triggered as the arm wasn't springing back all the way.