2014 RINKER 360

JOESONKO

JOESONKO

reply from Rinker , will see then

We are experiencing a very high call/email volume.  Your business is very important to us.  I am working very hard to get back to you as soon as I can, I am doing my best to return calls and emails within two business days.  If you could send me an email that would include detailed information such as the boat model, hull identification number, and exactly what you are looking for and pictures if you can get them.  This would help speed up the process so I can have an answer when I get back to you. Thank you for your patience during this busy time.

Thank You,

Malary Wagner

F1100

You said you tried the "trim". Once you are out of the hole and on plane, your trim tabs need to go into the full up position (you have them in full down in the last picture). Or it will cause alot of drag and push your nose down and bog your motors.

Once on plane... put TRIM tabs fully up.... Then use the DRIVE trim to adjust your boats plane. It should be planed out so the nose is LIGHT... but no so the the boat is porposing.

I trim my 300 so that I can just start to see the RPM go up with drive trim.. then put them down slightly so the RPM drops and the props are grabbing good water.

Its a fine balance to get the boat where it rides the best.

JOESONKO

yes the trim was in full down position, but I have the bow in full down position as well, isn't that will have the same result as the trim fully down? or I misunderstand ?

randy56

You said: this problem happened last year , but it was almost season end, You also said: it was going at 4300 rpms before. So it ran fine untill? what was top speed? 
Now you have a clean bottom and no change. Props look ok, Tabs are working properly. Did the boat mechanic use a scan tool on engines? 
@Alswagg may have some input. 
  

Handymans342

Did you verify both drives moved up while it was up in the air?

Handymans342

JOESONKO said:

yes the trim was in full down position, but I have the bow in full down position as well, isn't that will have the same result as the trim fully down? or I misunderstand ?

You need to be in full Bow UP position after you are on plane. 

Stodge

You want the drives all the way down and the tabs all the way down.  Once you feel it pulling up, raise the tabs and RPM should pick up.  I would only expect to trim up the drives a little bit after getting on plane.

Not sure what a 360 needs for RPM to plane, my 342 is a big girl and she starts to plane around 3000 RPM.  I cruise between 3200 and 3400 RPM which is between 26 MPH and 30 MPH.

Dream_Inn

That sure is not making much sense.  From the pics, boat & drives look clean.  You are definitely not getting any where near the RPMs you should get.  Are the props the correct ones for the boat? (I know you've had to change them)  Do have full gas tanks & water?  Just curious how much extra weight is in the boat.  I agree with MT that it is a bit underpowered, but you should still be able to get on plane.  Maybe having some weight (people) move forward just to see if you can get on plane?

F1100

Hi JOE, I think this is 100% operator error. You are not driving the boat correctly. You are just loading the engines from excess down trim and they are bogging out IMO.

"yes the trim was in full down position, but I have the bow in full down position as well, isn't that will have the same result as the trim fully down? or I misunderstand ?"

This means that you are driving the nose of the boat into the water with the trim setup, and the motors are bogging.

YOU 100% must TRIM BOTH the trim TABS and OUTDRIVE trim correctly. As I said in my above post.

F1100

In case you missed it.

1=when starting from zero.... BOTH TRIM TABS fully DOWN position.

2=BOTH OUTDRIVE TRIM start in Middle position.

3=Slowly throttle engines to 100%

4=as boat gets on plane... put both TRIM TABS to full UP position.

5=when on plane... then adjust the OUTDRIVE TRIM UP slowly..until you hear and see the left engine pick up RPM.. then lower it slightly so the props grab. Then adjust the right engine the same way.

6= slowly reduce throttle to the crusing speed you like.

7= IF nose of boat starts to porpose (bounces up and down) add on right and left outdrive trim SLIGHTLY more down trim, until the nose stops bouncing.

The whole point of boat trim is so that at cruising you can keep the least amount of the boat and engines in the water, but still have control over the boat.

Dream_Inn

@F1100 , what do you mean with the number 2 step?  The actual stern drive should be all the way down (tucked in) when getting on plane.  Then step 5 is correct after that.

Cableguy Greg

It looks like the drive ram pin is in the wrong position causing the drive to be trimmed up a little when it is down all of the way.

F1100

@Dream_Inn Cause once your DRive trim is set for crusing you dont really have to adjust it much, since you can get out of the hole easy by just using the trim tabs. This way you dont have to **** with outdrive trim everytime.

Stodge

To DI's point, if you have the outdrives higher than all the way down, you're driving the bow up when it should be going down.  Its a little like adding weight to the back of the boat which makes getting on plane tougher.

Dream_Inn

F1100 said:

@Dream_Inn Cause once your DRive trim is set for crusing you dont really have to adjust it much, since you can get out of the hole easy by just using the trim tabs. This way you dont have to **** with outdrive trim everytime.

Sorry, but I completely disagree.  At least with there is a reason to mess with it each time.  You will get out of the hole much better with the drive tucked down and it's much better for your drives.  It's all about the angle your boat is at when, both, taking off to get on plane, then, once you are on plane.  When getting on plane, that drive tucked in will keep your nose down.

Michael T

With my former 2014 EC 360 I could just put the drives in fully down (negaitve drive trim) to get on plane because the power from the 502s was so overwhelming ....but I also put the trim tabs fully down.

Putting the tabs fully down (negaitve tab trim) would put the boat on plane so fast I would have to have my left hand on the trim tabs to retract them (positive tab trim) QUICKLY or I'd stuff the bow. 

Once that was done I would slowly raise the drives (negative to positive drive trim) until the hull "loosened-up" as evidenced by maximum mph before rpms dropped -off due to cavitation. 

Once on plane a couple of "taps" of the drive are all that should be needed unless a trim tab is required due to load balancing needs or cross wind. 

My drive trim ram shims were always set to maximum negative trim position.

So, IMO:

1. Drives fully negative
2. Trim tabs fully negative
3. Trim tabs retracted to fully positive (unless required for balance/wind/current)
4. Drives slowly retracted to positive settings based on rpm/mph.

Most of us experienced boaters can tell by the sound of our engines and the "feel" of the hull where our sweet planing spot is without even looking at the gauges.

Please encourage friends to read this forum's archives prior to purchasing a boat.

IMO we get too many questions from purchasers who have IMO purchased boats with engine packages that range from somewhat underpowered to severly underpowered.

F1100

My 300 with twin 5.7 just pops out of the hole with just the tabs. I very rarely unless I have 6+ people onboard even have to touch the outdrive trim.

craigswardmtb

100% agree with DI.  When at rest, drive and tabs all the way down.  When up on plane, raise tabs up (fully retracted), slightly trim the drives up.  In crappy waters where i want to keep the boat on plane but go slow the tabs and drive go all the way down.  Its funny i just had this conversation with a new operator on my dock.  He was confused by the up and down indicator and was doing the opposite of what he was supposed to be doing with the tabs.  Hopefully this is the OP's problem.

F1100

Yeah I think him correcting the Trim will fix his issue.

Cableguy Greg

If he changes the drive pin location, that will also help.

GMSLITHO

The drive pin should be in the aft position on a bravo 3.correct ?  ,it looks like its intuit position   from the picture 

reneechris14

This is in the manual but @Cableguy Greg  is correct move the pin back it lowers the drive producing negative trim. Helps lift the back of the boat out of the water. My 342 loaded up 7mph to 20mph 6 seconds. She'll tach out to 5 grand at 40 mph. Why do I need bigger motors??

Cableguy Greg

@JOESONKO , you are Wide Open Throttle and you are only getting 3600RPM??? If that is the case, there is something going on in the engines. I have a 6.2MPI and I run 4650 WOT. A 350 MAG should be running the same RPM at WOT. I would also check the pin position on the drive.

JOESONKO

The mechanic also check the activity log of the boat , guardian mode was not on at all, also does see record that the boat was doing 4600-4800 before , they even tried to plane the boat , but only once out of 10 tries, once it plane once then can’t plane again , they also said might need to change props to 18, but the boat does come with 22.5 bravo 3 , so really running out of option ,  I did try with just 2 person on the boat , and not much different 

reneechris14

So this sound like there is something going on with motors. If you read around it could multiple of things. 

JoeStang

If it made the proper rpm and speed previously, why would they suggest changing props?? That makes no sense. I'd find a better mechanic, sounds like they are just throwing ideas out there without testing or diagnosing properly. 

pistole

any updates on this ?

mattie

16,000+ lbs & twin 5.7's. A lot to ask......

Liberty44140

He said they are 350hp so they are likely 6.2's at least which should absolutely get that boat with drives up on plane and run at WOT of around 40mph.