LOST ELECTRICAL POWER

jhofmann

I was idiling on the trailer to bring the motor up to temp so I could winterize the motor (2000 FV 242 with 5.7 Mercruiser EFI) when it stalled. Turned the key and nothing. I have no ignition, fuel pump, blower, radio, or anything 12volt except the power trim, which I believe is wired direct to the battery. I tried the 50 amp breaker on the top of the motor, checked all the 12v breakers and nothing was tripped. Any ideas?

aero3113

Check the main harness plug on the engine, maybe it vibrated loose?

trip_n

Your hatch... was already up

jhofmann

Thanks Aero, will check. The hatch on the 242 is manual, you lift up, and slide the hatch forward from under the seat. There is no hinge or power lift, it just rests on the floor.

aero3113

Also try switching your battery selector a few times, it’s possible there’s some corrosion on the contacts.

reneechris14

Maybe kill switch by the throttle?

jhofmann

Main harness seems tight, I have power coming out of the battery switch, but no power at the 50 amp main breaker on top of the engine. Kill switch wouldn't effect the lights radio or blower.

212rowboat

Wiggle the key my man. Its amazing how much corrosion behind dash builds. And the connection is simple push on's.  A touch of bend on the spade, and just a touch, that makes a V where the clasping female side os split, goes a long way to keep it from jostling loose.  

jhofmann

It's not just the ignition, it's the navigation lights, cockpit lights, cabin lights, horn, blower, basically everything 12 volt except for the power trim, which works fine.

212rowboat

Well... There is this, too,.. 

A fat cable, likely 2ga runs to helm... They build a beautiful patina (not) on themselves and often snap.  Your rig is a 2000, and it's prime for such a condition.  

If this is it, here is some free advice: either abandon it and run new main power line to helm, or stand by for huge headaches. I'm pretty sure the line was installed before the upper and lower shell was joined and its near impossible to get at after theyre connected. Fishing a new line in is pretty easy compared to removing speakers, insets, other items to get to it.  

jhofmann

I have thought about running a new power and ground to the helm for a couple years, and still may, but I don't think this explains why I have no power at the 50 amp breaker on the top of the engine. I may have to bring it to a shop as the time for me to get it winterized is running out.

cettialpha6

I have a 2008 6.2 L so maybe the electrical wiring is similar. On the top of the engine where the 50 amp breaker is are some relays and a fuse bank in a small black plastic box. The starting circuit for the ignition on mine has I think a 15amp fuse, you could check all the fuses in the box visually or with a meter. That's where I would start.
Art

randy56

Once I had an issue with the battrie switch, take it off the boat and look at the back side. running down electrical issues try's you patience. This is a generic wire diagram.

  

cettialpha6

10/28
"Main harness seems tight, I have power coming out of the battery switch, but no power at the 50 amp main breaker on top of the engine. Kill switch wouldn't effect the lights radio or blower."

With power coming out of battery switch, I would look for a 15 amp starting circuit fuse. I had a short to ground in this 12vdc circuit with all the same problems. After finding a blown 15amp fuse, I'd replace it and turn the ignition key and it would immediately blow. the problem was the diode light in the dash compass!!!!! unbelieveable! Without that circuit working correctly, no other relays will energize to distribute power, i think that's why you have no power at the 50 amp main.
I had found a print for this but of course I can't find it now. I'll look again for it.
Art
BTW- I was idling on the middle of the lake, after running all day and the boat just stopped dead. same thing you described. 

cettialpha6

jhofmann

Thanks for the info. Looking at the above schematic I have power from the battery to the starter, but not at the circut breaker so somewhere that red wire connecting the two is the issue. Made an appointment at G&R Marine here in South Windsor Connecticut for them to look at it. Hated to do this, but I need this fixed so I can winterize the motot before we get below freezing. Already had a couple nights right at 32 degrees. Will post what they find.

randy56

I have found if you chat with those guy's you will find one that work's on the side. maybe not this time. But next time you may be able to hire one of them. I found a guy that will make house calls for $50 per hour. Much less than the shop. 
maybe you should at least drain your block and headers. If it's getting that cold up there. 

jhofmann

Should be above freezing for the next week, only had one night hit 32 degrees for a few hours. In over 25 years of boating, I've only had to bring my boat to a shop 2 or 3 times, and with enough time i"m sure I could figure this out, but with winter approachong, working full time , and swapping plow frames and wiring from one truck to another, I have just run out of time. Snow will be here soon!!!

randy56

@cettialpha6 I did not know if you had seen the wire, color code for boat's hope it helps. Here is link. so you can print. That plug is 8 or 9 pin, cannot remember how many. may check that. 

https://www.ezacdc.com/Scripts/wire-color.htm

cettialpha6

Thanks, Randy
It will save me time probing with the meter next time.
Art

jhofmann

I seem to remember a block type fuse on the starter on a previous boat, but did not check it, could be the issue. Boat is at G&R Marine now, told them if they can't fixit by closing Saturday, I may have to take it back. Still predicting lows in the mid 20"s for Sunday night.

randy56

Low's down to 21 tonight, then 17 on Tuesday. It's coming your way. Winter is here.

jhofmann

Don't I know it, expressed my concern to G&R Marine, and they said it would take 24-48 hours of temps in the 20's before they would be concerned, and if they were, they would have someone drain the block.They assured me there was nothing to worry about. I'm still worried.

Dude_Himself

jhofmann said:

Don't I know it, expressed my concern to G&R Marine, and they said it would take 24-48 hours of temps in the 20's before they would be concerned, and if they were, they would have someone drain the block.They assured me there was nothing to worry about. I'm still worried.

That's when you know to worry. ;-)

jhofmann

Well, Alswagg was right again, it was the fuse coming off the starter. They called me Wednesday morning to say they just found the problem, and that the part would be in around noon. They also said there was record cold coming Wednesday night, and since the boat was already in the shop they recomended winterizing it while it was there. Weather this was coincidence or planned I'm not sure, but either way I had them do it for piece of mind.