270 trailer winch mount location picture

On my 270 the PO moved the winch mount towards the rear of the trailer a good 6-10". I am assuming they didn't trailer it much and this helped to load it at the end of the season on a flatter ramp. I want to move it back forward to help add some tongue weight and make sure it's in the correct spot (or as close as possible). Does anyone have a 270 trailer they can snap a quick photo of the tongue and send me or post on here?

I am also ordering Electric over Hydraulic parts to swap out the surge actuator and want to make sure I leave enough room.

Thanks!

Comments

  • Dude_HimselfDude_Himself Member Posts: 596 ✭✭✭
    Yeah, there's no "standard" place for the winch. You can completely customize the trailer: get the boat so the transom is 2-3" forward of the end of the support bunks (you want the transom fully supported), then raise the target bunks (if you have them) so they meet/guide the bow and set the winch post where it would naturally occur. Once it's set on the trailer weigh the whole thing and relocate the axles: you're shooting for 6-8%* of the total weight on the tongue.

    Once that's done you should have the most ideal setup possible.

    EoH is a great idea - biggest gotcha is the vehicle-side wiring and controller. Don't assume it works: hook it up and manually test the system. I learned my new-to-me vehicle has the controller and 7-pin plug, but it's lacking the 12V connection required to actually use EoH (I'm doing the same thing). Once I got into the wiring harness I found speaker wire. At that point I decided to remove the existing stuff and re-wire it all the proper way.

    *for cargo trailers, it's around 10%. Boats are more aerodynamic and I've always shot for 6% of the total weight on the tongue - that's proven the best ride for me over the years.
  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Member Posts: 268 ✭✭✭
    @Dude_Himself, the location of the transom is my main concern. Mine is a good 8" or so hanging off past the end of the bunk and I want it forward so it's even at the least. I think I can get it even with the bunk if I move the winch forward. My truck has the 7 pin plug factory wired in and everything works on it, plus I have the factory brake controller on the dash. I think the Hyrdastar 1600psi plug & play kit will get me all I need for around $740 plus a new 2-5/16" straight coupler for the tongue.
  • jhofmannjhofmann Member Posts: 430 ✭✭✭
    Be careful if you have trim tabs that might contact your bunks. On my 242, posistioning the boat forward meant if I forgot to raise the trim tabs, they would hit the bunks so I had to move the axles back about 8 inches. My boat is a 242 on a 10,000 lb Venture trailer that is a bit overkill for this boat, but was plannig on a 270 for the next boat!
  • 04FV270riverrat04FV270riverrat Member Posts: 268 ✭✭✭
    jhofmann said:
    Be careful if you have trim tabs that might contact your bunks. On my 242, posistioning the boat forward meant if I forgot to raise the trim tabs, they would hit the bunks so I had to move the axles back about 8 inches. My boat is a 242 on a 10,000 lb Venture trailer that is a bit overkill for this boat, but was plannig on a 270 for the next boat!
    I believe my trim tabs auto retract once I shut the engine off. Every time i leave the dock I have to put them back down when I use them.
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