342 A/C strainer improvement

Black_Diamond

Got tired of the small A/C strainer and the hassle of cleaning it on my 342

Really tough to find a larger strainer to fit in the original area. Went with a Groco ARG series with the flush kit adapter (more for flushing cleaner thru than winterizing). Set up shown below. More once installed. 

reneechris14

That is a very nice setup 

Handymans342

Thats overkill!!!

Black_Diamond

You can never over engineer a project. lol

zaverin1

But you can over engineer and starve ac by having a large strainer with wrong spec  pump
also prime issues 

Black_Diamond

Standard pump. The strainer has significant more flow capacity than the pump, so no way to starve it. In fact with the larger capacity and strainer ratio less likely to clog or starve. 

Install is still below water line. Ball valves on both sides will preserve the prime. Plus the strainer is top serviceable so much easier to bleed. 

Liberty44140

Looking forward to setup pics and success story, I hate cleaning my ac strainer 

Black_Diamond

I increased the size of the strainer for my genny too. Significantly extended the impeller life. Much better flow. 

cls10105

Thats bad. I have no clue what you guys are talking about and i have a 342. I am in so much trouble. 

Autodog61

Cis10105 I had the same thought.  I know where the A/C unit is under the V-birth bunk and the pick up is back under the mid cabin.  Can someone post a photo of the location of the strainer?  Assume its back at the pickup/valve under the mid cabin.   

Black_Diamond

The A/C pump and strainer are under the port side mid-cabin berth.  Toilet strainer is there too. 

This is my final install pics. I mounted the pump on an AL plate. The original mounting was crummy and was so misaligned to the line from the strainer the plastic inlet connector to the pump was actually bent!  

New strainer is top servicable. Flush connector on the inlet side of the strainer. Ball valves on both sides so no losing prime after cleaning. Strainer is easily 2x bigger than the old one. 

davidbrooks

Would you mind posting the parts list that you purchased?  I have a feeling this is in my future this year.  Looks great by the way. @cls10105 and @Autodog61
The main reason you will get intimately familiar with where this is A) winterizing and b) dealing with HPF faults while running your AC.  A little gunk in the water and it will kick off the AC.  It can either be a clogged line...most likely or the valve itself is starting to stick on the compressor.

Dream_Inn

Looks like a nice upgrade BD!  I also like the labels you put with new replacement dates.

The AL plate is nice.  I wish the mounting plate that came with the pump was something better than the plastic junk.

So, you say there is an adapter that connects on top of the strainer?  Does it come with it?

Oh, and any pics of the actual mounting of the strainer?  it's probably tough to get that angle with the tight area, but would help many of us out.

raybo3

OK stupid question.............. Shouldn't the ball valve be on the intake side? and the bleeder on the output side??? I know stupid question.....

Dream_Inn

Having the ball valve on the outside allows the water to stay primed in the pump and the entire AC system (remember, pump is after the strainer).  Not sure the bleeder is really necessary because I would think you could loosen the cap on the strainer to bleed?

raybo3

Dream_Inn said:

Having the ball valve on the outside allows the water to stay primed in the pump and the entire AC system (remember, pump is after the strainer).  Not sure the bleeder is really necessary because I would think you could loosen the cap on the strainer to bleed?

Yeah but in theory if you opened the filter housing you would have no way of shutting the raw water off. I understand Rinkers have a prime problem but in a "correct" application water would come pouring in...... No? 

Dream_Inn

raybo3 said:

Dream_Inn said:

Having the ball valve on the outside allows the water to stay primed in the pump and the entire AC system (remember, pump is after the strainer).  Not sure the bleeder is really necessary because I would think you could loosen the cap on the strainer to bleed?

Yeah but in theory if you opened the filter housing you would have no way of shutting the raw water off. I understand Rinkers have a prime problem but in a "correct" application water would come pouring in...... No? 

I'm assuming there is still a seacock that was original with the boat that is before all of this.

raybo3

Dream_Inn said:

raybo3 said:

Dream_Inn said:

Having the ball valve on the outside allows the water to stay primed in the pump and the entire AC system (remember, pump is after the strainer).  Not sure the bleeder is really necessary because I would think you could loosen the cap on the strainer to bleed?

Yeah but in theory if you opened the filter housing you would have no way of shutting the raw water off. I understand Rinkers have a prime problem but in a "correct" application water would come pouring in...... No? 

I'm assuming there is still a seacock that was original with the boat that is before all of this.

Ahh the old there is another valve thingy thing....lol Yes if there was another valve then that would make total sense to me. Thank you DI

Black_Diamond

Yes, still have the seacock at the inlet. 

Black_Diamond

I’ll try to get some pics of the mounting. 

The adapter I mentioned for flushing is on the inlet side of the strainer. You can see the ring on top of it to remove the plug to use the flushing connection. 

raybo3

Black_Diamond said:

I’ll try to get some pics of the mounting. 

The adapter I mentioned for flushing is on the inlet side of the strainer. You can see the ring on top of it to remove the plug to use the flushing connection. 

Chris very nice setup. 

Black_Diamond

So here is the parts list, all from Groco www.groco.net.  You might find the parts other places cheaper, never know!

Strainer: ARG-755-S   3/4" strainer with SS basket

Flush kit: SSC-750  3/4" Engine flush kit and adapter

Ball valve: IBV-750  3/4" Bronze in-line ball valve

As an FYI: copper parts are NOT certified for use in marine connections, Bronze or Stainless is.

I will say, with the limited room on the 342 for the strainer I about wore out Google looking for a better strainer that still fit.  This was the only one that was an upgrade and still fit  

Black_Diamond

Here is the install overview with some comments.

Black_Diamond

Not so easy to get good mounting pictures.  My attempt!

The strainer has an upper and lower bracket.  The lower one is just a rest with a releasable zip tie to hold in place.  The upper bracket allows the strainer to be removed, as it 'hooks' into the bracket, so pretty easy to remove the whole thing if needed.

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the strainer bowl.  To service the strainer itself, the top cap unscrews and the basket pulls out.  Looking forward to not making a mess every time I have to clean the strainer!

Dream_Inn

Very nice Chris!  & the mounting picture definitely helps!  I may have to look into that for mine.  I do get tired of making the mess each time I clean the strainer, but even worse is trying to prime it each time.  For some reason mine looses prime easily.  I always close the seacock when I put it up on the lift each week.

ktressel

What is the ac plate behind the fresh water pump