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Should I paint my prop?

luvinlifeluvinlife Portsmouth RIPosts: 283Member ✭✭✭
My 270 has a Volvo DP with formerly painted stainless steel props. They had been painted with Petit Hydrocote a few times and who knows what before that, and they were not that smooth or clean.  I pulled them today and sanded, wire brushed and used paint remover to get them down to bare metal. I’d love to leave them bare metal but I wonder if that’s a good idea. We are in salt water for 5 months a year in Rhode Island. What would you treat them with, if anything? 


  • reneechris14reneechris14 Pawcatuck river CTPosts: 1,763Member ✭✭✭✭
    Leave them bare, swin down in the summer with a scotch bright pad and give them a little rubbing. If you use a steel brush it will leave deposits and they will rust. A stainless wire wheel on a drill polishes them up nice.
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
  • diggin2day1diggin2day1 Long Island, NYPosts: 1,151Member ✭✭✭✭
    I’ve always heard that stainless props should never be sanded or wire brushed... I think it causes pitting issues. 
  • rasburyrasbury Sanford, FLPosts: 4,724Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    When I got over spray on mine from painting the out drive, did not stay long!
  • Handymans342Handymans342 Posts: 7,188Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    If you use your boat it will stay clean
  • LaReaLaRea Alexandria VirginiaPosts: 3,131Member ✭✭✭✭✭
    Once I painted mine with Primocon metal primer and Trilux antifouling paint.  It was just leftovers from painting the drives, but I did a careful job of it. 

    I drove the boat 8 miles to haul out for maintenance, and the paint was gone.  That was the first and last time I painted the props.
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Annapolis, MDPosts: 4,956Member, Moderator mod
    I would go without paint and just take an old washcloth or scotch bright (as mentioned) whenever you are in the water.  Definitely better to have bare if possible.  I know in my area that most people do not paint their SS props (we are in brackish water).

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • luvinlifeluvinlife Portsmouth RIPosts: 283Member ✭✭✭
    Too late on not using steel wire brush on them, oh well.  Might just try waxing them a few times and putting them in for the season. 
  • diggin2day1diggin2day1 Long Island, NYPosts: 1,151Member ✭✭✭✭
    luvinlife said:
    Too late on not using steel wire brush on them, oh well.  Might just try waxing them a few times and putting them in for the season. 
    I found out the same way... after I wire brushed the stainless props on my old Maxum! Lol
  • WillhoundWillhound Lake Simcoe, Ontario, CanadaPosts: 1,566Member ✭✭✭✭
    I beleive the thought is that the wire brush leaves microscopic scratches with low carbon steel deposits in them which promotes galvanic reaction, therefore pitting etc. Just thinking out loud, but would a quick shot of muriatic acid or some such help remove that? Probably not?
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270
  • luvinlifeluvinlife Portsmouth RIPosts: 283Member ✭✭✭
    Willhound I have heard that muriatic acid is not recommended on any metal. That is why I was thinking wax?
  • bella-vitabella-vita Buffalo NYPosts: 298Member ✭✭✭
    I clean my props every year with muriatic acid,I do remove them first so I don’t get the acid on anything else.
    2002 Rinker FV 342
  • davidbrooksdavidbrooks GermantownPosts: 471Member ✭✭✭
    I just spent hours trying to strip off the prop paint i put on last year.  Don't do it again.  Still haven't gotten it all off.  I honestly don't think that it helped at all vs leaving it bare.
    It's 5 O'Clock Somewhere!
  • craigswardmtbcraigswardmtb Mystic, CTPosts: 993Member ✭✭✭
    I use a stiff poly brush that I put on my drill..  it does a great job of cleaning any growth off. I also use toilet bowl cleaner and scotch pads on areas I can't reach with the drill. 
    I have read the only paint that works well is Prop Speed..  it is however insanely expensive....  I would only consider if I was in the water year round  
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