getting the mother 9876532 shift cable boot to stay on?

rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,433 ✭✭✭✭✭
I'm just beside myself and frustrated. With all the things I have been able to accomplish on my boat repair wise, I can't get the shift cable boot to stay put. I have reglued it several times. I'm off to WM to get a new clamp and a new tube of adhesive. I'm sorry for those that may work or have a close relationship with Mercruiser but this is the stupidest design for both the boots. We have double clamps on everything and all that separates the boat and the bottom of the surface is a stupid rubber boot that is glued on with a clamp around it.

So, my last attempt was to remove the exhaust bellows so I had good access to the nub there to clean it off and I did with acetone. I took some ruff sandpaper and further cleaned and removed any old glue. I put some glue on it and waited about 15 mins until it was tacky. I pushed it on there so that the surface designed to bottom out when the entire boot is on there was bottomed out. I still have not put any type of clamp on the other end on the cable itself so I pushed the front of the boot all the way down on it. I put the clamp on it, put the drive down and left it there for a week before I moved it.

I just completed installing a new trim actuator and ready for a test run and though I'd better check it. The clamp and the boot had moved forward almost to the end. I checked the run out of the trim ram and it's at 25". I easily put my finger under the  bottom edge of the clam;p and pulled it off. I swear it is almost like this nub on the OD asy. is tapered, it just will not stay on....what the heck am I doing wrong? On my way to WM.....just can't imagine what else I can do and it pretty much sucks with all the things that can go wrong with a boat and sink it, I will be paranoid about this stupid boot for as long as I own this boat.

Best Answers

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,433 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Answer ✓
    @reneechris14 it was suggested on another forum to put this on dry. There are serrations I can feel on there- the clamp I took off seemed a little misformed but I guess works ok. I'm reading more about the recommendations...what about it @Alswagg ? What do you do with them? Also, I greased the cable as it would just get to a spot and stick and then I think pull against the clamp / boot..

Answers

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,433 ✭✭✭✭✭
    not answered...I think I'm going to try it dry...
  • Glassguy54Glassguy54 Member Posts: 588 ✭✭✭
    If you can find it, "Pliobond" is great stuff. I have used "Pliobond 20" for many difficult bonding applications. Provides permanent, flexible bonding and will not get brittle with age. Resists most acids, gasoline, oil, grease & water. For rubber, leather, canvas, steel, fiberglass, aluminum, wood & glass.
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,433 ✭✭✭✭✭
    So, when I cleaned everything off with acetone and assembled dry I could not get it apart so I clamped it up, will cycle it am and dunk if it looks ok. Wow!
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,433 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks @Alswagg..the cable does not slide- as mentioned I but grease on the cable so it would. Once the boot was on the nub I was afraid I was going to tear it trying to get it off. I guess the acetone made the rubber sticky and it latched on- might have been some residual adhesive as well at play. I'm going to cycle it many times in the am and see what it does. I really don't want to tare it off and have to pull the drive at this point. Pretty odd...yes I have the hex around one o'clock position and snugged it with the socket. I think I will just remove the zip tie. I bought all the bellows through sierra maybe I should have bought from Merc. No way that boot will slide on the cable, at least not without the grease I put on it. The gimbal bearing has stayed in fine. This is where the experience comes in vs the well intentioned novice. 
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