Trim up/down

ruggerole

Is it the trim pump solenoid valves?

It will go down but not up. Only clicks. What should I look at to fix?

2001 Captiva 232, Bravo 3

Thanks

Stodge

My trim pumps have separate up and down solenoids.  I had 1 fail and was able to replace it.  

Ian

Sounds like it could be pump motor or the solenoid not reversing the polarity properly. Do some tests per the attached.

(Now attached)

raybo3

Vanilla has been contacted and waiting for a reply.

Ian

Just sent to @ruggerole direct via a message and went fine using drag and drop.

Ian

Just sent to @ruggerole direct via a message and went fine using drag and drop.

Ian

Stodge said:

My trim pumps have separate up and down solenoids.  I had 1 fail and was able to replace it.  

Yeah, till I looked at what I sent him I forgot there were 2, thought it was a changeover/polarity reverse.Hopefully the info I sent allows him to narrow it down.

raybo3

Fixed.......

Ian

Agreed, thanks Ray. Updated above with attachment.

ruggerole

Thanks all. I will look at it this weekend....after more friggin snow

rasbury

yea, snow, can you believe it? Was in the 90's here yesterday!

69fastback

You can jump across the solenoid and see if the drive moves. 

ruggerole

OK, I ordered new solenoids. Should be here soon. In the mean time, I did the jumper deal. Both up and down works just fine.

At the throttle, down works all the time, up once every 10 or so times. I can hear the clicking at the pump so that tells me that I am getting a signal. Is this the solenoid or low battery?

Willhound

icoultha said:

Sounds like it could be pump motor or the solenoid not reversing the polarity properly. Do some tests per the attached.

(Now attached)

Got my batteries installed night....and my trim pump's not working. Nothing at the throttle switch and nothing at the trailer switch. No clicks, nothing. Thanks to @icoultha for posting this, I'll run some checks when next at the boat. 
But one thing has me confused. 

"Zero Ohms Reading (Full Continuity)-Fuse OK.High Ohms Reading (No Continuity)-Replace fuse."

I was always taught that a zero ohms reading means no continuity so fuse no good. A reading shows the fuse is intact and offering resistance. Am I wrong?

Ian

0 ohms = no resistance therefore means dead short - IE fuse is intact.
0 volts across the fuse means no potential difference, IE fuse is intact.

Willhound

Thanks @icoultha. Still having a difficult time getting my head around this. I beleive you, just can't picture it. If zero ohms, no resistance, how does the link in the fuse not offer some resistance? I've always tested fuses by turning my meter to ohms. If I touch both ends of the fuse and the needle or meter reading jumps I've got a connection. If no moment or reading I have an open circuit?

Ian

@Willhound happy to help. With meter not connected on ohms setting, the voltage it is providing to measure resistance is going nowhere so your resistance is infinity - >20M or all the way left. Ohms reading on an analog meter is opposite - zero at the right side versus for measuring volts and amps where zero is at the left. Digital open will usually read a something like -1 like my Fluke does for an open circuit on ohms. 

When you check a good fuse, the current from the meter battery flows through the fuse making the needle go to the right all the way - 0 ohms resistance to the flow of current. If you check any fuse or switch, a good fuse or switch in the on position will show 0 ohms. A fuse or switch should have no resistance (ohms) at all.

So yes - nothing from meter on ohms setting means open circuit, test by touching the leads together and it will swing right. (If it still doesn't you may have a dead battery in your meter or bad leads)

Willhound

Okeydoke, so I think we're saying the same thing, I was just getting confused on the zero reading. Will be at the boat tomorrow and I already have a handful of the 20 amp fuses just in case, but will run the other tests shown on your PDF if that's not it. Hoping it's either the 20 amp fuse, or the $15 110 amp fuse, or the $25 solenoid and not the $800 pump!

Ian

If it's the pump motor - as mine was - a replacement from AmaBay is the solution.

Willhound

Happy to say I found the issue and the pump is working fine now. Also willing to admit that sometimes I'm an idiot but it highlights the first rule of trouble shooting. Always look at the most obvious and simplest solution first. After checking fuses I checked for power at the pump and found the pump had power but no ground. I checked my connections and everything looked good. Consulted a pic I  have on my phone of my battery connections....yep..3 negative connections just like in the pic. I know I shoved some wires around changing out my waste tank so started tracing the ground back thinking maybe I loosened something. And....eventually came to the end of the ground wire.....not connected. I was forgetting that the pic was 2 years old and I've added another connection since.
D'OH!

reneechris14

That a good fix no money fixes are the best. 

BrianN15

What are the right solenoids for these pumps 2003 342 fiesta vee