Anode help please

zdutkozdutko Member Posts: 4 ✭
in General Boating Discussions
being new to boating, I would like some help with zinc installations. How do I find out where and what gets a zinc? Are there brand and model specific kits? Do I just wing it? ( of course not ...!!!) Are there any submerged metal components that do not need it ? 
Bought my 2004 FV312 about 2 years ago, first season I just used it, last year not at all due to other projects but this year I am looking at everything and wang to get it right, but haven’t found specific info on zinc placements and installs. 
Any help is greatly appreciated. 
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Comments

  • IanIan Member Posts: 2,857 ✭✭✭✭
    Take a look at http://boatzincs.com/ and determine from your drive type. Aluminium are what you need.

    If Bravo3 there will be 2 for the drive rams, one on the cavitation plate and either one or 2 above the props. You may have on on the end of the props too, if not not a big deal but you can add on (I did - they have a kit for that)

    Regards,

    Ian

    The Third “B”

    Secretary, Ravena Coeymans Yacht Club

    https://www.rcyachtclub.com/

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  • WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,208 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Sorry @icoultha but I'll disagree on the aluminium. Fresh water so magnesium.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
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  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    You're in Brick?  Wikipedia says brackish to salty in the Metedeconk, and I'm guessing you'll make the occasional run offshore.  And I'm assuming you have Merc outdrives?  I'd go with aluminum anodes, and see how long they last.  

    My opinion - you want them to be 50% gone after 1-2 years, and then you replace them.  If anodes last longer than 2 years, they are not giving you enough protection.  

    My boat has anodes on the trim tabs too, but they never do much.  I wouldn't bother with anything other than the drives.  

    Welcome to the forum!
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  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Oh -- also, if there's any corrosion on the drives, you need to sand and paint the corroded parts.  Don't let it get away from you.  
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  • WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,208 ✭✭✭✭✭
    0keydoke. Perhaps I'm wrong. I was go8ng by @zdutko assertion that he was in fresh.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
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  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Nah, that was the post by @Spyderweb.
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  • WillhoundWillhound Member Posts: 4,208 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Double oops! Sorry guys.
    "Knot Quite Shore" - 2000 FV270 (Sold)
    2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
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  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,501 admin
    I change my zinc's after 1/2 season. I do a mis season haul with zinc replacement and power wash......
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
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  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Two sets of zinc anodes per season?  That ain't right ... are you sure there's not a current leak at your dock?  
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  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,501 admin
    LaRea said:
    Two sets of zinc anodes per season?  That ain't right ... are you sure there's not a current leak at your dock?  
    Nope had it checked. Problem we have is a very strong water current and we are very close to a big bridge. Electrical system is only a few years old. 
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
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  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,747 mod
    Ahh, yes ... moving water will magnify all corrosion issues.  
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  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,501 admin
    edited May 2019
    LaRea said:
    Ahh, yes ... moving water will magnify all corrosion issues.  
    Water runs about 4 knots on normal tide and as high as 7 on moon tides. Our normal tide is an 8 foot swing.....
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
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