Do a search on the site..I know people have replaced these units...are you sure it's not an electrical problem with the one you have? Mine did not work when we first got ours...
no checked out the electrical piece of it. it is 18 years old . I found a couple that should be an easy replacement for it. Its just the price of them are outrageous. One was as much as my home fridge. The one I am leaning towards is the Vitrifrigo 65 2.2 cuft
I finally got the fridge out. I plugged the fridge back in again. I heard it kicked in a d for a few minutes. I waited for awhile and kept hearing it kick on and few minutes later it stopped cycling . How long should the compressor stay on ? That is the question
I had problems with mine when we first got ours...and I'm no electrical guy..at all...but recall the fridge works on 12v even if it's on shore power. The was a power converter on the back of the unit that was bad..I found one on ebay and has worked. There was as issue with the on off but I sprayed it with wd40 and cycled it 5000 times and it seems to be working...
Sounds like the right brand...I will see if I have any info in my boat bag- I may be way off base, perhaps someone else will chime in if I'm off track here..
I have the tundra and also did a thermostat replacement. the original was corroded and impossible to turn. I have found that even with the new one the fridge does not get as cold on 12v but I think it’s still working. I pulled it out a few years ago and what stumped me is that it appeared the power converter is a 120> 12 v converter. So to me it seemed that the compressor is was always running on 12v, so. It sure how or why I would see a difference. Wonder if anyone else can confirm.
I also learned that the compressor board has a battery saver feature which can be configured to kill the fridge when the 12V side drops below a threshold by advising a resistor. I was concerned that this was my issue but confirmed mine was not setup this way.
My thermostat also was an issue..but the no work was a control unit on the back. I'm sure there is my thread out there somewhere as no way I would have figured it out myself! You can surch the site and there is an archives as well...
Well I get to the marina and check on the fridge and she is as cold as can be. I dont what is going on, but she is working now. The compressor running like a charm. Will have to monitor it for a bit
The cockpit fridge is probably grounded to an 18-year-old ground block in the engine room that has about 20 wires attached with corroded, unsealed crimp connectors. Consider re-making those connectors to improve reliability. On most boats, it's a fairly easy DIY if you have the right tools.
So @LaRea, that described my block, on the transom correct? I'm just been afraid to get near it! Right tools? I like those new but connectors that have the solder in them...do they make those in the eyelet style connectors?
On my boat, they had jammed 3 or even 4 wires into a single terminal. It's best to have no more than two in a terminal, and no more than four terminals on each screw.
This is a good mod -- easy, not expensive, and very satisfying.
Comments
Waeco fridge only works on DC — Rinker Boat Company (vanillacommunities.com)
I also fixed my old one and selling it as well (although you'd have to live nearby cause shipping would be too expensive).
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Fridge Freezer Thermostat Refrigerator Cold Temperature Control Universal WPF-20
https://www.amazon.com/Thermostat-Refrigerator-Temperature-Controller-Universal/dp/B07V2ZQ6JX?th=1-3°C to -20°C(26.5°F to -4°F)
Changed both of mine to these. If you look at others look at the temp range.
If you put in a higher temp range it wont get cold enough
The cockpit fridge is probably grounded to an 18-year-old ground block in the engine room that has about 20 wires attached with corroded, unsealed crimp connectors. Consider re-making those connectors to improve reliability. On most boats, it's a fairly easy DIY if you have the right tools.
To do it right, you need three things.
A ratcheting crimper like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-Ratcheting-Crimper-10-22/dp/B07WMB61J5
Heat-shrink ring terminals like this (don't skimp, get good ones or you'll regret it):
https://www.amazon.com/Haisstronica-Connectors-Tinned-Connectors-Heat-Connectors-Insulated-Electrical/dp/B08HRTVLCQ
A heat gun (or, in a pinch, a butane lighter)
The job is easier if you also get a one-handed wire stripper like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Self-Adjusting-Stripper-Klein-Tools-11061/dp/B00CXKOEQ6
On my boat, they had jammed 3 or even 4 wires into a single terminal. It's best to have no more than two in a terminal, and no more than four terminals on each screw.
This is a good mod -- easy, not expensive, and very satisfying.