Pulled her, have a project to work on….

aero3113 · October 7

I chased all of the head bolts this morning and installed the heads. Got front and rear brackets back on as well? Anyone know what this sensor is for at the back of both heads? Is it for cylinder head temperature?

aero3113 · October 7

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5020499/uploads/editor/7r/i65rj5z3ss0q.jpeg

Formulaben · October 7

Knock sensor.

https://www.mercruiserparts.com/bam/subassemblydetail/43949019/28193894

aero3113 · October 7

WoW, never knew that's where they're located!

LaRea · October 7

@aero3113 - looks pretty. This is some really nice eye-candy.

aero3113 · October 7

👍🏻👍🏻⚓️

Formulaben · October 7

aero3113 said:

WoW, never knew that's where they're located!

Coming from an Indmar it's funny how so much of it is exactly the same, yet certain parts are totally different, such as the knock sensor and IAC valve, but the biggest for me was the sea water pump. I'm sure there's a good reason for it, but I'm clueless.

Years ago someone said something about staying away from the wake boats with Mercruiser engines...I asked why and he said "if nothing else, the impeller changes."

I almost forgot that comment until looking for a Rinker, then after seeing how hard that was the first thing on the upgrade list was to swap it out to a crank driven pump. I reckon the swap was probably easier than a single impeller change, and now it takes just a few minutes and no busted knuckles. The only downside I see is if you throw a belt you need to momentarily remove a hose to reinstall a new one, except that you can zip-tie a new belt looped inside and onto the hose and if the old one shred, then just remove it and put on the new belt without removing any hoses. I know some don't have the space to do the conversion, but I'm sure glad I did.

captkevin · October 8

Just curious why did you clean up the threads for the head bolts? Just good practice? what do the heads get torqued to? Looks like a brand new motor. If you ever upgrade & sell your boat someone will be getting the best taken care of boat in history. the quality of your work is amazing.

aero3113 · October 8

Thank you @captkevin !
The reason for cleaning the threads is to prevent any debris from dragging on the bolt and giving a false torque reading.
I torqued the bolts in three stages and in a certain order. There’s another method to use a torque angle but I felt this method was fine. I even bought the tool to torque to a degree but heard stories of people breaking bolts. But I also read that method is for torque to yield bolts. The new head bolts I bought are not TTY bolts.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5020499/uploads/editor/r1/13cww057nyse.jpeg

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5020499/uploads/editor/4m/wodnnpri7sbf.png

Ian · October 8

This is what happens when an aircraft mechanic does this versus a regular mechanic…

aero3113 · October 8

😂

PickleRick · October 8

TTY botls were invented by the devil.

aero3113 · October 8

@PickleRick I understand when they say TTY will give a more accurate torque but it’s not necessary!!

PickleRick · October 8

I much prefer someone like ARP head studs where you don't need that final, say torque to 80 ft-lbs and then an extra 80 degree turn.

The boat has plenty of working room but many modern V8 engines don't have a ton of space under the hood to make that a simple process.

I also appreciate reusable bolts. Whenever possible I always switch over to arp studs or reusable hardware.

aero3113 · October 8

I ordered 8 new intake bolts. I cut the heads off of 4 of the old ones. I’m going to use these as guides for when the intake goes on. The intake is extremely heavy and you really only have one shot to line everything up and not ruin the sealant and gaskets. You don’t want to have to slide the intake around to get it aligned. This will line it up perfectly on the first shot. I painted the distributor hold down and bolt also.

aero3113 · October 8

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5020499/uploads/editor/b8/od3avn9wv9ai.jpeg

aero3113 · October 8

I’ll probably install the intake next week. Below are the torque specs and sequence to follow.

PickleRick · October 8

That intake is lacking a nice center handle to lay it down completely level without risking a pinched finger

aero3113 · October 8

Actually, that's why I left the thermostat housing on. It gives a nice hand hold up front and will make it much easier.

PickleRick · October 8

What's the fun in that?

Did the machine shop give any indication as to what might have caused the valve failure (s)?

aero3113 · October 9

He thinks an over heat. I did overheat once this summer and it might have put them over the edge. But it ran fine after it so I’m thinking it may have weakened the valves and got worse towards the end of the season.

captkevin · October 10

Would think it would take more than 1 overheat to cause that extent of damage.

aero3113 · October 10

@captkevin , I have had 1 or 2 other overheats on this engine in the past years.

captkevin · October 10

What was causing the overheats?

aero3113 · October 10

Sucked up mud at low tide

aero3113 · October 11

Receive the new intake bolts and painted them.

aero3113 · October 21

Trying to get myself motivated and finish this project! Hopefully get most of it back together today.

aero3113 · October 21

I got everything back together and adjusted the valves. Just have to install the manifolds, risers/elbows. Using the studs to align the intake manifold was huge. No way would you get it lined up first shot. I was surprised to see that the distributor was made of mostly plastic.

aero3113 · October 21

When I was setting top dead center on the number 1 cylinder, there was compression with my finger over the spark plug hole. Before I removed the heads, there was absolutely 0 compression with my finger over the number 1 spark plug hole 👍🏻.

mbnarney · October 21

I have to compliment you on how clean you work. Doesn't look like there was enough cussing and tool throwing going on there.

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Pulled her, have a project to work on….

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