Just ask Old Dog New Trix- It's never too late.....MT P.S. Have you installed a 3" waste tank safety vent/valve yet. It should cost about $ 75 and you can do it in ten minutes. It really could be a saviour for your tank!
The hose stays 5/8" all the way to the through hull. I blew through the big orange and it seems to free flow pretty good, plus you have that vacuum relief directly on the unit. Wouldn't another 3" vacuum relief be overkill?
The Big Orange filter does have a vent relief valve built right into the canister. I have been told that it doubles the amount of "relief" draw as it opens right at the canister in a DIFFERENT location than the vent hose so the two draw from different locations. That said, a real good 3" waste tank safety valve costs about $75. It takes about 10 minutes tops to install. I had one in our 2013 EC 310 and the tank still sucked in a bit. I could hear the oem safety vent whistling, then the vent on the Big Orange started to suck air then the 3" vent went pop and the tank went back to 90% its normal size but as I said it was still getting sucked-in a bit. Cheapest insurance in my opinion. A water tank breaking, no big deal. A waste tank splitting ..........@#$%! MT
I only used the OEM vent line as relief for the past two years and the waste tank has never collapsed. Now I still have the waste line and another relief on the big orange filter which has effectively increased the relief potential, so I don't get why I need more. I understand it is more insurance, but I never had a problem even with just the vent line.
On another note, how did you secure the 3" relief to the tank?
When I get a pump out it'll draw aggressively on the tank vent but pretty quickly sucks the inlet line from the head clear and draws air through the bowl too. Conveniently emptying the entire system if nothing else. The tank may flex but it certainly isn't collapsing. That said I still I still like the idea of a T into the inlet with an addl one-way vent for that big day at the pump out.
Don't get me wrong, my waste tank has never collapsed. That's what I want to avoid. It has been sucked-in several times. It seems to depend on the marina or maybe it is the operator? The 3" add on waste tank vent was very easy to install and snapped right into the 3" drilled hole on top of the waste tank. It only sits above the top of the tank by about an inch - two inches tops so it is very unobtrusive. I will get another one installed on our new 360 because, in my opinion, $75 to ensure that - failing a idiot on the vacuum pump - the waste tank will not be damaged during a pump out. MT
Exactly. It took longer to walk to the boat with the drill and parts than to install the valve. I'm in Niagara Falls right now but when I get home on Thursday I can look up the pn for you if you want - although it's probably pretty standard. MT P.S. Just be sure that you withdraw the drill slowly so the cut out piece of the tank stays attached to the drill - you don't want it to fall into the tank - and it won't if you just withdraw the drill carefully.
Bought it from Len's Cove Marina. Pretty sure I have pn at home. If you need to know before Thursday call Steve Warren (service manager) at Len's Cove Marina 1-888-272-2581 or Bonnie Mustard - parts manager. Regrads. MT
Boating season is over for me . Ill be away for 2 weeks in in the beginning of October and didn't want to have it pulled out,clean and winterizing it when it's cold out. The weather was perfect today and got everything finished. Just need to buy a pool cover pillow to put up on the bow.
Drill a 3" hole, press in the tapered rubber gasket, press in the relief valve. That simple. I would not think tank shape make any difference, you are just looking at some simple fluid mechanics if you can replace the fluid with air at the same rate, there is no pressure difference, and air moves a lot better than water/waste through a given opening.
I use a local company that has a hydraulic trailer. He can lower and raise the bunks with hydraulics, you can see the levers on the front of the trailer in the pic. It costs me $140 to have the boat hauled and put on blocks (I supply the blocks).
Comments
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
The Big Orange filter does have a vent relief valve built right into the canister. I have been told that it doubles the amount of "relief" draw as it opens right at the canister in a DIFFERENT location than the vent hose so the two draw from different locations. That said, a real good 3" waste tank safety valve costs about $75. It takes about 10 minutes tops to install. I had one in our 2013 EC 310 and the tank still sucked in a bit. I could hear the oem safety vent whistling, then the vent on the Big Orange started to suck air then the 3" vent went pop and the tank went back to 90% its normal size but as I said it was still getting sucked-in a bit. Cheapest insurance in my opinion. A water tank breaking, no big deal. A waste tank splitting ..........@#$%! MT
On another note, how did you secure the 3" relief to the tank?
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Just sayin'. Mike
So did y ou drill the 3" hole at the top of your tank?
The valve just "snaps" in?
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
No rush. I probably won't install anything now. Maybe I will get something at the boat show, and install in the spring next year.
My tank's already empty, so I won't need to pump out again this year.
Boat Name: King Kong
"Boat + Water = Fun"
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Here is the valve I used:
I installed Sealand part number 255247.
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PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
PC BYC, Holland, MI
LoL, would love to expand the garage!