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Installation notes: ProMariner ProIsoCharge battery isolator

LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,554 mod
edited March 2023 in Rinker Custom Projects
[EDIT 3/31/2023:  I ultimately removed this system 30 months after the initial installation.  It had too many problems.  If you are considering installing this system, I recommend against it.]

I just finished replacing my failed Guest 2403 battery isolator with a ProMariner ProIsoCharge 130.  Here are some notes that might help others who are considering this product.

First of all, the box is a lot bigger than the original, and bigger than it looked online.  My boat had enough space, but check before you buy.




[EDIT:  See comments below from @YYZRC on the correct tool to enlarge the holes in the ring terminals.]
The original isolator had 1/4" ring terminals, but the ProMariner has 3/8" posts that are too big for the 1/4" ring terminals on my boat's wiring.  For the #4 cables from the batteries and alternators, I drilled out the holes to 3/8".  (The terminals had plenty of metal left to provide a solid connection.)  For the #8 cables from the charger, I cut off the original terminals and crimped on new ones.

The ProMariner needs to know when your ignition is on, so it requires wires to the ignition of both engines, as well as a ground wire.  I ran 14 AWG 2-conductor wire from the junction block at the helm, and I ran a separate ground wire to a bus bar in the engine room.  

My battery and alternator cables were (just barely) long enough, but not long enough that I could install the clear plastic cover.  The location is tucked way back behind the fresh water tank, so it's not in a place where it's likely to get bumped.  (That's my battery charger at the right.)  

The red rubber boots are nice, but I had to cut them and then secure them with zip ties. 



Electrical work is never easy, but overall, this was not a difficult installation.  


Post edited by LaRea on
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,561 mod
    Very nice, but why did you switch isolators?   I replaced mine two years ago but just went with the same one.  Was about a 30 minute installation.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    How did you know it failed?
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,554 mod
    edited August 2020
    With a diode isolator, the diodes steal around 0.5 volts of the alternator output.  [EDIT:  Some people are reporting that they lose 1.0 to 1.2 volts of potential.]  If the alternators are putting out 13 volts, the batteries only receive 12.5 volts, so the charging is less efficient.  

    Also, the ProIsoCharge gives priority to charging the starter batteries, which a diode isolator can't do.

    Admittedly, these are minor issues.  Is it worth an extra $100?  Debatable.  Most people would probably say no.  I use my batteries more than most, so I went for it.  
    Post edited by LaRea on
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,554 mod
    Oh -- and I switched isolators because the old one died.  It was creating some sort of odd interaction with my charger that prevented the charger from operating.  With the engines running, it wasn't charging my house bank.  When I bench-tested the isolator, the multi-meter said it was fine, but it definitely was not fine.  
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    Handymans342Handymans342 Member Posts: 10,375 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mine did the same thing
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,554 mod
    Follow-up in case anybody else installs this isolator.  You might need to install a filter depending on your engines.

    Whenever I turned on the ignition, the isolator would make a loud, fast clicking sound, like the sound a ratchet wrench makes when you spin it backwards.  And it was not charging the batteries.  In other words, epic fail.  

    Because of other major life events, I didn't get around to dealing with it until this week. 

    ProMariner says it's a known problem involving "relay chatter, which can be caused by noise on the ignition lines of some engines."  They sent me a filter ... basically a small circuit board that bolts onto the front of the isolator.  It's not the prettiest thing in the world, but it solved the problem.

    No cost to me.  Took about 20 minutes to install it.  



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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,554 mod
    ProMariner also recommended that since I only have three battery banks, I should install a jumper cable between outputs 3 and 4.  The said it would "aid in charging bank three by prohibiting the charger from needlessly checking bank four, which is an unused post."

    I have two 70-amp alternators, so they recommended a 1 AWG cable.  
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    Michael TMichael T Member Posts: 7,227 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ProMariner is an awesome company that used to have a fantastic web site and links to proper battery set-ups. When researching AGM and TPPL batteries Promariner Procharger was recommended. Those were on my Rinker cruisers as OEM. Loved them!.....definately worth the $100 - a pittance, IMO - for fas, safe, protected charging of multiple battery chemistries.

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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,561 mod
    Thanks for the update.  I'll have to check on my outputs to see if I need to jumper 3 & 4 as well.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @LaRea how did you decide which isolator to get. For my application there are 3 different amperages available. I was thinking the 180amp version, 250 seemed high and 120 seemed low. 
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,554 mod
    It's based on the output of your alternators.  From memory, I think mine are 70 amps each, so I needed at least 140 amps.  
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My alternator is a factory one, so it is probably 70 amps. If I got the 180A version, I would be in good shape. 
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I ordered the 180A version. Defender actually had a decent price on it. Fingers crossed that this solves all of my charging issues.
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Installed my new charger a few weeks ago and got the new isolator installed. 


    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    reneechris14reneechris14 Member Posts: 3,134 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nice and clean install looks great
    2005 Rinker FV342  Pawcatuck river,Ct
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    YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2020
    I am looking at swapping out my isolator but wondering if I can avoid running wires to the helm? Why does this one need wires to the ignition?
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    All you need is a power line to the helm. If you can find a ignition switched source in the engine room, then you don’t need to run a line to the helm. 
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks Greg. Did you need the add-on circuit board that LaRea needed?
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have a single, so I did not need it. 
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Adding to this. I used a step bit to drill out the cable ends and it worked brilliantly. 


    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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    YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @larea I’m tackling this on the 350 now and I forgot how I wired the 330. The ignition connection is to the purple wire, correct?
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,554 mod
    Correct @YYZRC the purple wire should be the ignition switch to coil and electronics.  That's what the isolator needs.  
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    echandler1971echandler1971 Member Posts: 165 ✭✭
    Relating to a recent post of mine, I will add a separate battery for my thruster and have 4 banks then with just 1 bank being a 2-battery. My only question is how I find ignition power. I can easily fish to the dash, but haven't dealt with ignition power as of yet.
    Dan of Steel
    '05 Rinker 360 Fiesta Vee
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,554 mod
    @echandler1971 - I ran mine from the helm because I thought it would be the most obvious source (to simplify troubleshooting for a future owner).  My DTS system has terminal blocks with switched power, so I used those.  But I think there might be a spare spade connector on the ignition switch.  
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    Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,012 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I also ran mine to the helm. 
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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    YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I also ran a 14/2 to the helm. Not a big deal. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 739 ✭✭✭
    Do we have battery isolator in 2012 model 310 EC, Because I could not found where my it's locate it. Thx
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    YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,912 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @oscar1 you have two engines so there should be an isolator - probably near the charger?
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 739 ✭✭✭
    I just install a new mastervolt battery charger and i didn't see any battery isolator even when I install my new rolls agm battery bank. 
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 739 ✭✭✭
    I only see a VSR voltage sensitive relay module install in my electrical panel in the eng-room which i don't have a clued what it's it
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