Confused About Battery Switches
I have 2008 280EC. It has a generator onboard. There are two batteries on board- one Group 24 dual purpose, on group 27 deep cycle 125 AH. I have two battery switches. The first switch (on the OEM panel) is labeled. "Engine and House." It is three position switch: Off, On, Combine. The second switch is labeled, "Generator." It is a two position switch: On, Off. There are two cables on each terminal on the dual battery, on cable on each terminal for the deep cycle.
If I turn the "Engine and House" switch to ON, I assume both batteries come on but are isolated from each other with one powering the Engine, ignition and other gages, and the other the house. If I turn it to combine, my assumption is that it connects the two batteries in parallel so that the house battery can aid in starting the engine if the engine battery is too discharge to crank the engine. The generator switch does nothing but shut off power to the generator. The generator has power when its switch is on, even when the engine and house switch is off. Also why did they install a switch only to disconnect the generator from power? Is the generator a significant load when not running? Also which battery is the generator connected to, engine, house, or both?
I would like to have the Engine Battery on one switch that is Off, On, Combine. And I would like to have the House Battery and Generator on a simple On, Off switch. (I am sure the deep cycle could crank the generator) But before I mess with rewiring anything I am wondering if anyone knows if there a specific reason it is wired to have both batteries on or off, and no option to turn off the engine battery when anchored. Also why is the does the generator need a stand-alone switch?
I have seen a panel wiring diagram, but the one I saw has a four position switch: On, Batt 1, Batt 2, Both, and does not have a generator switch. Does anyone have a diagram that includes the switches that I have described?
Comments
I was under the assumption that battery 1 ran everything except the generator and then if you drain battery 1 you can still start the engine by turning the switch to combine or starting the generator and charging battery 1.
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Cableguy Greg. You're explanation makes sense. That is how I thought it was wired. I was actually an electrician in the Navy years ago, so I have a relatively decent understanding of DC circuits.
I think I have at least narrowed my problem of having the engine battery discharge. I disconnected the neg cable on the start battery and ensured that all systems were off. I then connected my amp meter between the cable and neg terminal. the draw was less than .05 A. turning the generator switch on to supply power to the generator, the draw was 2.6 amps. Seems like a big draw for doing so little, but maybe normal and the reason for the generator switch on the battery panel? But I have also heard that allowing the generator controller to experience the lower voltage associated with a slowing dying battery, or a bad battery cell or two, can damage the electronics in the controller and that is the reason for the switch...
I am going to look for a parasite load in the generator power wiring, if I can't find it, or the draw is normal, at least there is already a switch to solve the problem! If I find that it is a parasite load, I will post what I find.
I did a few other amp draw tests too. Interestingly my stereo amp is on the house circuit, and my stereo head unit was powered on the engine battery circuit run through the ignition accessory switch. I changed that already. Also if you power any additional cockpit electronics, fish finder, chart plotter, fuel rate gage, or whatever your pleasure, from the cockpit panel, I suggest you make sure you turn those off when on the hook as their amperages are near constant draws of a few amps and can add up to be real power drain over a weekend on the hook.
Pulling out of the slip this morning onto the San Francisco Bay! Lots of dock and dines here, but surprising few gas stations on the big bay.... Happy Boating!
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The moll battery says start on it 😄
Also, is that a diesel volvo i see?
Yes I know it says start battery but I do think they are wrongly connected because if that the start start battery, then why is that battery connected to one of the small ones? This is why I think they have a misstake when the connected the new ones. Do I make any sense? :-)
Yes, it a Volvo Penta D4 - 300
I do agree that a start battery should not be wired to another battery.
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
Maybe that big diesel needs more starting amps? Many diesels carry 2 starting batteries, wired just like that.
Id probably habe put 2 agm batteries for the starter, both group 31. They are good multi use batteries, both deep cell and starting.
Gas engines have 150 to 195 psi compression, you have 350 to 450 psi compression. These numbers are off the top of my head so not 100% accurate but close enough for you to get the point, diesels need amps to start. Especially if its an idi diesel in any cool weather.
Nice motor, its unanimous on here, diesels are best!!
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In Isuzu cab over trucks the batteries are several feet from the motor on both the 6 cylinder diesels and the chevy v8.
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