Diesel issues.....
Dirtythirty
Member Posts: 393 ✭✭✭
Looking for a little help from anyone who may have some experience with diesel engines. I've had an issue with my port side engine now for a while and it has been nothing more than an annoyance, but it seems to be getting a little worse as time goes on.
My port engine has been spewing black sooty smoke and leaving a black oily film on the water when I engage the joystick and maneuver in joystick mode. It seems to stop when I am not in joystick mode and it either doesn't happen while I'm under way, or I am unable to notice it. Along with this issue, I've noticed that at times, while powering up to planing speed, my engine(s) seem to level off at about 2700 rpms and hang there..preventing me from getting up on plane. This could be just one engine (possibly the port) hanging....and then the sychro preventing the starboard engine from going to WOT...Not sure. I can work through the problem, and eventually plane the boat, but sometimes it takes a few tries and a few minutes. And finally, I noticed that while under way, at about 2800 rpms, my gauges are telling me my starboard engine is running at about 11.5GPH, and my port engine is running at about 13.5 gph.
I have replaced the turbo boost sensor on the port engine, and that has not solved my problem.
Dock chatter is telling me that maybe its an injector issue.
Any thoughts
here is video of the boat in joystick mode:
https://youtu.be/aWC4lu-MQD0
My port engine has been spewing black sooty smoke and leaving a black oily film on the water when I engage the joystick and maneuver in joystick mode. It seems to stop when I am not in joystick mode and it either doesn't happen while I'm under way, or I am unable to notice it. Along with this issue, I've noticed that at times, while powering up to planing speed, my engine(s) seem to level off at about 2700 rpms and hang there..preventing me from getting up on plane. This could be just one engine (possibly the port) hanging....and then the sychro preventing the starboard engine from going to WOT...Not sure. I can work through the problem, and eventually plane the boat, but sometimes it takes a few tries and a few minutes. And finally, I noticed that while under way, at about 2800 rpms, my gauges are telling me my starboard engine is running at about 11.5GPH, and my port engine is running at about 13.5 gph.
I have replaced the turbo boost sensor on the port engine, and that has not solved my problem.
Dock chatter is telling me that maybe its an injector issue.
Any thoughts
here is video of the boat in joystick mode:
https://youtu.be/aWC4lu-MQD0
Comments
i would say turbo seals or injector issue.
Do you have a boost gauge on your motors? If so whats the readings? If you dont there are cheap eBay mechanical ones you can buy and install in the engine bay, great diagnostic tool for diesels.
Is there a diesel shop in town? Non marine. Call them, see if you can't pop them out and carry them in to be checked out possibly rebuilt. Have you pulled the intake and exhaust pipes on the turbo to examine fins? On thrust bearing turbo(most common) there will be a little up\down play no in or out. Expect oil in the charge pipe, it wont be quarts but it will be present. Think constant mist of oil.
Also im not sure what type of waste gate you have on your motor, a simple cracked vac hose or sticky waste gate actuator rod can cause issues with building boost. Not enough air and too much diesel = black smoke.
Another biggie is fuel pressure, just because you dont have leaks doesn't mean shes not sucking air from somewhere. If your obd system has data logging id start there if she passes visual tests. Checking fuel pressure is great. I dont know how sophisticated your diesel motors are. The more electronics the more data you can aquire via the obd.
You have twin motors so a simple swapping of components from one to another can go a long way.
I have a cheap harbor freight diesel engine compression gauge kit, works great and i think sub 50 bucks. Lots of diesel motors dont list compression numbers but what you want is a good steady across the board numbers. You dont want all 350 to 375 psi and a 220. Its always good to rule out internal issues before digging in deep elsewhere.
Just a few things I'd check if it were mine. Start simple first.
Some of the vw guys uncoded a vw marine ecu(mercruiser) and found the coding was nearly identical to the same 1.9t tdi car coding. Now you can find many vw guys running 1.9 and 2.0 tdi motors in boats with both the electronics and old mechanical injection pumps modified to work on newer motors.
Clueless dealer network and they know nothing about the product they sell or service.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://marinediagnostictools.com/products/meds-marine-diagnostics-volvo-penta-diesel-engines&ved=2ahUKEwjQscWmjYDkAhVqTd8KHbAyChoQFjAFegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw1W7905SN-jKJEftOVs0QZ_&cshid=1565708305426
At 2k it would be something I'd talk to a few other oil burning buddies about going in on together. Im sure at this point its a couple hundred bucks just to have a tech travel out and tell you what codes you're throwing. This would give you real time parameters and in depth diagnostics capability.
Does the port engine smoke when you reverse without engaging joystick mode?
(WIth this product line, you install software on your PC, and then you would purchase the individual cables (which comes with the software license) for each product line you wish to have functionality with.)
lol
you call third party that can barely answer calls and look up parts.
Dealer network is where they say to go but 80 percent of the dealers are clueless.
to make money
they service and work with manufactures
consumers are screwed
I'm headed to Chesapeake City on the 29th, and unless I get some resolution before then, I plan on having a tech meet me there to look at these issues. At least I'll be within their scope of travel so as not to pay for the travel time.
Running up the engines one at a time helped me isolate the issue to the port engine (not that I couldn't see the smoke only coming from that one side) What is strange to me is with all the sensors and self diagnostics that my engines have, I get no trouble codes. Hopefully that means I can make the 68 mile trip without damaging anything.
I miss the days of diesels having dirty exhaust, clean intakes and a scew on the injection pump that you could loosen to make more power. They had 1 wire hot going to the injection pump and it was a simple on/off switch for the injection pump.
One last thing, have you checked all your charge pipes? You can have a hole/tear in a boot/coupler and be leaking enough boost pressure to cause a lack of power but not enough of a leak to throw an under boost code(at least on 7.3 and vw turbo diesels) .
I had a power loss in my vw i couldnt find for weeks as it was under the throttle body where a heater core hose clamp was rubbing. I did find it when it finally blew out completely. You can cap off your charge pipes end to end and pressurize the system looking for leaks with soapy solution.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
soot= too much fuel or too little air.
you'd notice on plane if you were delivering too much fuel and not enough air, and your temperatures would skyrocket as the injectors turn into tiny cutting torches and melt holes in your pistons. it's likely not an overfuel situation.
i'd guess you've got an obstruction in your air delivery. hopefully it's simple such as a filthy air filter, or something sitting in front of a vent. if it's mechanical, it can get expensive quickly.
turns out, though, you're in luck. because you're sooty you know you've got too much fuel or not enough air... guess where else that leaves evidence?
on a sunny day but still with a flashlight, open your engine compartment. look closely around the exhaust manifold- the down pipe- the up pipe- the turbo on both sides.. do you see sooty deposits? that is where your leak is.
if you don't, pull the intake side off the turbo and look at the wheel. does it have deposits on it? grab the wheel and see if it jiggles at all- in and out, up and down... you want zero play.
let's look at fuel, too:
get your hands on an IR temperature gun.
fire your COLD engine... sit where you can get temp reading off of each runner going into the exhaust manifold- aim it as close to the surface marriage as you can- you're looking for variation where one heats significantly more or less than another. let it idle until operating temperature and look for variations. ... akin to gassers, initially LEAN burns HOTTER... RICH burns COOLER...
make sure it's not in gear, and bring the throttle up to around 1200rpm. run the temperature readings again... if it's fuel and an injector loosening too much delivery, you're going to see heat on the exhaust runner from that cylinder.
ALSO at that RPM, you're going to see and likely hear a leak..
if the temperature delta between cylinders is fairly uniform, it's time to look at fuel pumps, pressure, pressure regulators, and fuel filters/ water separators.
i wager you're going to find a restriction in your air delivery, personally. those injectors are mechanical. they don't fail that often. the turbo, unless you run that rascal HOT often, and then abruptly kill the engine before they've dropped off those temperatures, are likely fine. that is likely the biggest killer of turbo's and seals- running really hot and then just killing the engine before they've cooled down some, and cutting oil flow to them as a result of killing engine.
good luck!