Need a new oil pan

aero3113

Went to head out with my wife today and noticed my oil pressure was bouncing. I figured it was my sender and kept an eye on it. About 15 minutes in i started to hear lifter noise and Pulled back to idle and the oil pressure went back up to normal but still had slight lifter noise so I shut down and dropped anchor. I checked the oil and there was only a dot on the tip of the dip stick! I checked under the engine and it looked like it was just water so I put 3 quarts of oil in (all I had). Started up and there was some lifter noise but quickly went away and oil pressure was normal. Was able to get back to the slip with no issues. Once I tied up and shut down I looked under the engine again and could see oil dripping from the bottom of the pan! I reached under and could feel how corroded the area was. I have a 2001 242 with a Mercruiser 5.7,Is it possible to replace the pan in the boat or does the engine need to be pulled? ( If it doesn't need to be pulled i can do it myself) If it needs to be pulled what do you think a shop would quote me to do the job?

Babyboomer

Engine has to be pulled and If I were you I'd have the coupler changed while the engine was out 2001 your due

http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Sierra-Engine-Coupler-For-Mercury-Marine-Engine-Sierra-Part-18-2323&i=900534&r=view&aID=506Y6&cvsfa=2586&cvsfe=2&cvsfhu=393030353334&s_kwcid=&s_kwcid=PLA_allproducts&cID=GSHOP_900534

aero3113

A Remanufactured Mercruiser was installed in June of 2009 by the previous owner but I don't see anything about the coupler being replaced. It will probably be a good idea to have that done also. On the last 2 trips we did hear a loud slap once or twice coming from the engine bay, I wonder if the coupler is going also.

Babyboomer

I had mine go out 2 years ago the noise sounds like your grinding a beer can in a blender. Most likely they put a new coupler on when they swaped the engine if it was done right. I'd also have the gimble ring checked 

aero3113

Will call the marina tomorrow, hopefully they can get me in right away!

212rowboat

I'd be seriously concerned about what was circulating around in my engine if there is a straight up hole rusted through the oil pan.. I'd also make dang sure an aluminum pan went on it to replace the steel one.

aero3113

Got a quote from the marina that's going to replace the pan, $900. I was thinking it was going to be WAY more and didn't get much sleep last night. They said there is a chance they may have it finished for the weekend.

212rowboat

Break Out Another Thousand..... Grrrrrrr... Sorry to hear it, man..

those jobs are a pain.... it takes several hours to get the thing apart to where you can get to it, and about ten minutes to actually do it, and another several hours putting it back together..

I hope you're considering a new oil pump and pick up while you're in there... they aren't expensive, and the mechanic will be right there, anyway..

aero3113

Yea, I'm going to come up with a list of things that I think should be done while the engine is out.

TikiHut2

This forum is killin' me with relevant posts. I read your post and thought nah that wouldn't be me but I took a few mins and laid down in the engine compartment and slowly contorted my arm until I could feel the drain plug on the bottom of oil pan......now I kinda wish I hadn't. Here's a blurry cell phone pic of what I felt.....aside from nausea (from flaking rust around the drain plug).

Thanks for the post. The CO post someone else added might've saved a life and this one might've saved an engine.
Mike

Black_Diamond

Note that rust blisters and looks a lot worse than it usually is. The trick is how thin the metal is under the rust, there are ways to measure it, but few people have the equipment. If you can get to it and clean off the big stuff. POR-15 over it will stop the rust.

TikiHut2

When I rapped on it the oil pan sounds like it's as thick as a Walmart cookie sheet. I don't have much choice except to choose how soon I pull the engine or I'll have an experience like Aero did. It's my off-season and I wanted to pull the drive and check the alignment anyway so I'll just back it in the shop under the chain hoist. I just put fresh fully synthetic oil in it too. Just glad it didn't end up in the bilge...or overboard. Mike

212rowboat

that's about how i'd expect it to sound, Mike.. there isn't much to them.. I'm like you, though, as it is something i couldn't live with until it was fixed...

again, make sure and get an aluminum replacement pan...

aero3113

Got the boat to the shop yesterday afternoon, hopefully I will get it back by the weekend! TiKi, if you can get under with a mirror and inspect the area better and find it not to be that bad I would clean the area really well and just brush on some Rustoleum or POR-15.

TikiHut2

Thanks guys. yeah I'll give it the wire wheel and gently scrape it tonight. I'm pretty curious if I have a big project ahead of me or simply a little paint. Tried last night but it's monsoon season here and the boat won't quite squeeze all the way into my shop.

212rowboat

If you can squeeze under there enough to see, you may just find it's surface rust and a brillo pad will work magic.. or the wire wheel... here is something to think about, though: you're likely rusting where the paint was either imperfect to start with, or it was scraped while working around down there.. a bit of light cleaning/steel wool, such as a brillo pad, and you may knock the rust and the dislodged paint right off- and all you'll need is a shot of paint to bring it up to snuff..

I recommend header paint.. on as clean a surface as you can get.. :-)

212rowboat

aero: good deal on the shops prompt response... in the middle of the season, the last thing I want to have to do is haul mine to a shop... I bet it would take three weeks just to get an oil and filters change this time of year!! :-)

aero3113

drewactual said:

aero: good deal on the shops prompt response... in the middle of the season, the last thing I want to have to do is haul mine to a shop... I bet it would take three weeks just to get an oil and filters change this time of year!! :-)

That's what I was expecting. I drove by the marina a little while ago and the boat was sitting in the yard with the rear seat removed and the drive was off. I couldn't see if the motor was out but I'm shocked at how soon they were able to work on it.

aero3113

The top of my engine looked fairly new, I had NO clue the bottom looked like this! This engine was installed in 2009, its crazy it can get that bad in such short time. I wish I took a pic of the engine on the hoist but I forgot. I think everyone should get their inspection mirrors and flash lights out and inspect the underside of their engine just incase. While the boat was in the yard I decided to put a coat of wax on her.

aero3113

Here is a pic of the engine when I bought the boat last April, never would have know the pan was rusted. I didn't even notice it when I changed the oil filter this season or last season.

TikiHut2

Aero, your oil pan looks like it doesn't ANY paint on it or is it just the lighting? Was the leak right at/near the drain fitting?

You've certainly got your work cut out for you in cleaning that bilge but the boat looks great. At least it'll be completely serviced with impeller/oil pump/drive oil and re-check the O/D bearings and alignment. All stuff you won't have to worry about for quite a while.

Nothing beats cramming a cell phone on video mode (or picture mode if you can trigger it) and a light way back in tight spots to see what lurks way back/down in there. Thanks again for your post. I'd have never thought to check my oil pan for a potential leak if you hadn't posted, and thanks for the pics. Relentless afternoon rains here so I still haven't gotten back to mine to see if it's repairable. Mike

Black_Diamond

Not sure what that yellow sticker says, but I agree, looks like zero paint on the oil pan..bet it is not original.

aero3113

If you look close, you can see the area on the pan. Its about dead center on the bottom of the pan near the edge closest. I'm surprised that the hole wasn't as big as a silver dollar. I agree that it looks like there was never paint on it. I'm having them install a new starter(looks like the engine would need to be pulled to install one), manifolds and risers also. He said that when the previous owner repowered the boat in 09 it was probably Just the block and put the original stuff back on. It will be nice to know that everything is good to go and not have to worry about risers or manifolds burning up.

aero3113

Black_Diamod, the sticker probably says to paint the pan before installation. LoL!

212rowboat

I reckon some folks get concerned about types of metal and expansion rates, especially where there is a gasket involved---- but the oil pan uses a reusable big ol fat steel reinforced rubber one, or a cork one... there ain't no way in the world I would use anything other than an aluminum pan... fortune has it that any CSB or CBB have likely the largest selection of pans there is..  I hope you replaced the rusted one with aluminum..

aero3113

I would like to put in an aluminum pan but can't see spending that kind of money on it when I can use the $$ for other items on the engine.

TikiHut2

Spent the morning in the engine compartment trying to contort my way under the engine and see if my oil pan was as bad as Aero's had become or if I could even reach it to attempt a fix w/o pulling the engine. Removing the lift ram and propping the hatch all the way open gave me enough room to lay where the ram had attached so I could get a scraper, dremel with a wire wheel and paint brush under the engine. Although there was some pretty heavy scaling that certainly wouldn't have lasted another year, I think it was caught in time and I really believe Aeros post probably saved us from a major breakdown in my upcoming season. Thanks again for the heads up.  :-bd

I'd highly recommend my fellow boaters with a boat over 6y/o to cram a camera under yours....

I got pretty good at shooting pics with my arm folded backwards and my face crammed against the manifold Here's what I found, how it cleaned up and the final portrait until the engine gets pulled some day. Hope your luck is as good or better than mine. Mike

Michael T

Hey Mike, you dodged a bullet there! Thatvarea would have continued to trap condensation until your oil pan perforated. Nice repair job! if you see a line up of boats outside your shop tomorrow........MT

mvn

Mike, 

You missed a spot! 

Good catch.  I'll be checking mine.   Thanks to all for the heads up. 

Mark

TikiHut2

A pretty good fix for being in such an impossible spot. I wouldve never thought to check there for rust but outrageously glad I did. Turns out that any moisture or leaks run across and down the block to the pan and drip off at the plug.

The dremel with an extended flex head and wire wheel made it work. Along with my new yoga move.....the manifold face, inverted arm.

Hope it works out just as well or better for you guys too.

Mvn, I actually had missed a small spot in that pic but it was only one pic of dozens I had to shoot to check my work. Awkward but it worked. You guys have a great season, mike

aero3113

Mike, glad you caught it in time! When I saw your first two pics I thought your pan was done. It looked like the chips were really thick, but by looking at the treated pan it looks great!