I spoke to the marina today, the boat is back in the water! He has to finish up a few things and take it for a run. If all goes well should have it back any day
fwiw, that wax ain't gonna help you- if even you mention it in jest.. :-) it'll run right off under the heat..
I'd grab up a bottle of contact cleaner like acetone or rubbing alcohol, a non-linting towel (like those boxes of blue rags at hardware stores) and an aerosol can of spray in bed-liner or even the roll on stuff... I'd hit it with a coat of that...
edit to add: I'd also install a fushimoto valve and hose coiled up in the bilge, pointing toward the plug.. ->
it will make draining easier...
if you stick with the standard pan plug, I'd locate a cheap socket- like found at harbor freight- a little out of tolerance or enough to get on the plug when the plug has one of those blue towels around it... I reckon you guys know this, but it's the imperfections or scratches to the protective paint that cost y'all and allowed rust.. those scratches to the paint are pretty easy when your fumbling around with a wrench down there..
Spoke to the marina today and the boat is ready to be picked up . I won't have the time to get it today (4 year wedding anniversary), She should be back in my slip tomorrow!
Spoke to the marina today and the boat is ready to be picked up . I won't have the time to get it today (4 year wedding anniversary), She should be back in my slip tomorrow!
congrats on the anniversary! (and getting the boat back)
I told myself I wouldn't go there.. Promised, in fact.. but as it is, I'm out of lives on 'candy crush', and this subject interest me greatly-
Aero, Tiki-
what material are your engines heads made out of? what about your intake and exhaust manifolds? How are you guys wired? (ground on block? intake manifold?/ starter ground to block?)
I'd reckon you fellers know where I'm going with this, huh?
As in most marine applications it's all bonded together, but don't leave me hanging. Are you thinking galvanic corrosion from dissimilar metals? My oil pan issue wasn't corrosion based on being a less noble metal. It was just a low point where condensation had been dripping off the drain pan at the plug leaving corrosive/salt residue at the exit point. Unbelievably Aeros pan didn't look like it even had paint on it. But here's a couple of interesting pics if you're going in that direction.
(1st pic) Bonding the metal objects together to direct stray current to the sacrificial anode and a (2nd) pic to graphically explain why you should keep your anodes from being eliminated as the least noble/softest metal. Ouch$$$$$. Never mind my ricochet into corrosion if I'm wildly off base....just guessin'. Mike
That's precisely where I was going with it.. given, its not submerged, but a good constant (between uses) coating of salt water or condensation could do the same thing, but slower. :-)
Not a bad assumption but this boat gets more attention than my 1st born did......but wait, constant use and corroding away, are we talking about me or the boat.. I have days when I feel like those outdrives above. Rust never sleeps according to Neil Young but I'm fightin' it to the end.
Thanks BoatAway. drewactual galvanic corrosion usually has a white powder with it, my pan looked like pure iron oxide which I'm sure was due to no paint on the pan (like Tiki said).
Got the boat back today! My engine looks brand new. He cleaned up the engine then put a coat of paint on it for me while it was out. Also my bilge is so clean now . The boat ran great back to the slip but I did notice a slight tick that I didn't hear when I dropped it off. It's at idle but goes away with some throttle, oil pressure is about 40-50 at idle and goes up to about 70 with some throttle. The only thing he did "internal" were new exhaust shutters. I called him and asked if he heard the tick on the test run and he said yes, it's the new shutters. What do you think? Do shutters make a slight tic? He told me I will have a better hole shot with a 4 bladed prop and to stop by to try one out. He also said I will probably lose a little top end, what do you think?
Congrats on a nice ride. My guess might be a bit too much oil. Its a fact that these motors tick when even slightly over filled. Sometimes it's just that simple. Hope it is for you. Mike
Thanks guys! Tiki, last year I did have an issue with too much oil but it was at power. I will definitely check the oil level next time I'm at the boat.
I found what the ticking noise was! It was a broken spark plug wire arcing on the block! Must have got pinched when the engine was put back in. The arcing of the wire was making the ticking sound. Replaced the wires and all was good .
Great find! Thanks for posting the fix (especially the pic). One more obvious thing (in hind sight) to check. Hope I remember if it happens to me. Mike
Comments
I'd grab up a bottle of contact cleaner like acetone or rubbing alcohol, a non-linting towel (like those boxes of blue rags at hardware stores) and an aerosol can of spray in bed-liner or even the roll on stuff... I'd hit it with a coat of that...
edit to add: I'd also install a fushimoto valve and hose coiled up in the bilge, pointing toward the plug.. ->
it will make draining easier...
if you stick with the standard pan plug, I'd locate a cheap socket- like found at harbor freight- a little out of tolerance or enough to get on the plug when the plug has one of those blue towels around it... I reckon you guys know this, but it's the imperfections or scratches to the protective paint that cost y'all and allowed rust.. those scratches to the paint are pretty easy when your fumbling around with a wrench down there..
congrats on the anniversary! (and getting the boat back)
Aero, Tiki-
what material are your engines heads made out of?
what about your intake and exhaust manifolds?
How are you guys wired? (ground on block? intake manifold?/ starter ground to block?)
I'd reckon you fellers know where I'm going with this, huh?
HOLY CRAP!!! I thought I'd seen some pretty badly corroded out drives before, but.....WOW!