The bilge fan is created for pumping fumes not liquids.
If there was a leak that for whatever bizarre reason appeared during fill up, or more likely from fueling a rod holder, you wouldn't want your bilge fan turning the side of your boat into a potential flame thrower.
Common sense tells me that after fill up its wise to open your hatch, sniff for fumes and look for a gas pool. If all looks dry and smells ok close hatch, turn on blower as usual then go about your merry way. I always keep my key in and watch the fuel gauge during fill ups, i don't want to over fill the boat.
It would take a fuel spillage/leak to smell fumes in most newer boats. Even the fuel tank vent is filtered with a carbon canister.
In older boats (i want to say 2014 or 2012 they changed the fuel lines and tanks) plastic fuel tanks and a carb you may still get fumes, just not dangerous levels.
The older plastic tanks and fuel hoses permeated gas but not to explosive levels. On any engine engine after the ignition is cut the engine still makes several revolutions and a carbureted engine is still pulling fuel during these revolutions unless your carb has a 12v fuel cut off valve. Even with the cut off valve your engine probably has enough compression to pull a small amount of fuel past the fuel cut off needle.
The fuel cut off is usually known as an anti after fire solenoid as it was designed to stop an engine from backfiring or dieseling after cut off.
There will be a small amount of fuel sitting in the intake and probably throttle butterfly as well after you kill the motor and a little gas makes a big smell.
You guys - the most effective way for your nose to find the scent of fuel is the BLOWER EXHAUST, not the hatch.
The blower pulls air directly from where vapors would be. It blows them past your nose at high volume, which makes your nose as effective as it can be. Ever wonder why a dog sniffs really fast? They do it because it moves a lot of air.
I've written before about the benefits of regularly sniffing your blower exhaust. Find fuel vapors? Check. Find unusual smells, like coolant or burnt electrical bits? Check. Easier to reach than opening the hatch and leaning down in there? Check.
boat was showing a little over empty (less than 1/8th).
Did one run with these... and emptied them. Then did a second run... the gauge must be wrong when the boat (270 FV) is idle at the dock. I've now got a full 14 gallon tank, a full blue 5gal tank and a 1/2 of a second blue tank with fuel in them. The others were all it needed to fill the tank.
Gas was 2.29 a gallon. Cheapest cost to fill the tank ever!
Don't do like I did if you fill your boat up at home with 5 gallon cans. I filled mine up when it was cold. Few days later it warmed up. I went into the shop an smelled gas. It was leaking a good bit out the gas cap. Had to take some out. Had same problem on Waverunners. Even filling at the pump by the time the nozzle shuts off you have already put in too much gas. Guess you could turn switch on and watch the fuel gauge if your not worried about a spark blowing you up.
Don't do like I did if you fill your boat up at home with 5 gallon cans. I filled mine up when it was cold. Few days later it warmed up. I went into the shop an smelled gas. It was leaking a good bit out the gas cap. Had to take some out. Had same problem on Waverunners. Even filling at the pump by the time the nozzle shuts off you have already put in too much gas. Guess you could turn switch on and watch the fuel gauge if your not worried about a spark blowing you up.
I had the same experience. When I trailered the boat home i stopped off at a gas station, put Stabil in the tank and topped it off. The temperature was in the low 50's. Later on in the winter we had a couple days when it was in the upper 60's and I went out to the barn only to discover about 5 gallons of gas had puked out of the gas cap. Lesson learned.
No but I would like to find a used one. Some places marina pumps are twice as high. With that tank looks you would still need pump and hoses.. Might check at farm equipment auctions. You might one.
Farmers here have diesel brought to their home here all time. Guess they could bring gas too if you bought enough. Not sure what the cost would be. Guy I know here started a business with another guy doing that. Might catch them on one of their routes and get it cheaper.
We only have gas at our fuel dock, so the oil-burners use trucks occasionally. We allow commercial fuel trucks at the marina if they are licensed and insured.
Crude oil lost dropped 26% to $30/barrel yesterday. Today it's back up to $35. On January 2, 2020 it was $64. This should bring pump prices down substantially.
I finally got around to buying a JustRite metal 5-gallon can. Without any doubt, it is the best and safest fuel container I've ever used. This is the one I got, $65 on Amazon. I'll never own another plastic fuel can.
Yesterday in southern WI, unleaded was $.89 a gal, Premium $1.29 gal. I am in storage at the IL / WI border. I may trailer up to WI all summer for fuel.
You are right, that's a nice fuel can. My two plastic ones at home are due for replacement, so I'm getting the Justrite. I'm sick of spilling fuel every time I use my generator.
@PickleRick thanks again for recommending the Justrite safety gas can.
My power's out from a downed tree, so I filled the genny with my last plastic fuel container and (of course) spilled fuel all over the place. I'm done with plastic cans. It's such a primitive tool compared to the Justrite can.
@LaRea. Im glad you like it. So long as you burp them before trying to tilt and pour they work as a jerry can was intended. We sell tons of them a year.
For anybody who hasn't used one: the top has a fixed handle (the red part) and a flow controller (the silver ring). When you tilt the can and position the nozzle, no fuel comes out until you pull up on the flow controller. It gives you precise control over the flow rate.
Those plastic "safety" cans are great for splling 3.00 a gallon gas all over whatever you are trying to fill up. Prefect for freshly waxed boats or recently painted motorcycle tanks.
We had those cans at Comcast when I worked there. The safety manager banned our crew from using plastic cans because of spilling fuel onto a generator. I liked using them, but the price tag is a little steep.
2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes" Go Steelers!!!
I have found that these are the best new style can. Rotate the spout, then press the button to release the fuel.
We also sell these at the shop. The only issue with them are the little locking teeth that you have to press to open the cap to refill. Cut it off and no more issues.
Comments
If there was a leak that for whatever bizarre reason appeared during fill up, or more likely from fueling a rod holder, you wouldn't want your bilge fan turning the side of your boat into a potential flame thrower.
Common sense tells me that after fill up its wise to open your hatch, sniff for fumes and look for a gas pool. If all looks dry and smells ok close hatch, turn on blower as usual then go about your merry way. I always keep my key in and watch the fuel gauge during fill ups, i don't want to over fill the boat.
It would take a fuel spillage/leak to smell fumes in most newer boats. Even the fuel tank vent is filtered with a carbon canister.
In older boats (i want to say 2014 or 2012 they changed the fuel lines and tanks) plastic fuel tanks and a carb you may still get fumes, just not dangerous levels.
The older plastic tanks and fuel hoses permeated gas but not to explosive levels. On any engine engine after the ignition is cut the engine still makes several revolutions and a carbureted engine is still pulling fuel during these revolutions unless your carb has a 12v fuel cut off valve. Even with the cut off valve your engine probably has enough compression to pull a small amount of fuel past the fuel cut off needle.
The fuel cut off is usually known as an anti after fire solenoid as it was designed to stop an engine from backfiring or dieseling after cut off.
There will be a small amount of fuel sitting in the intake and probably throttle butterfly as well after you kill the motor and a little gas makes a big smell.
The blower pulls air directly from where vapors would be. It blows them past your nose at high volume, which makes your nose as effective as it can be. Ever wonder why a dog sniffs really fast? They do it because it moves a lot of air.
I've written before about the benefits of regularly sniffing your blower exhaust. Find fuel vapors? Check. Find unusual smells, like coolant or burnt electrical bits? Check. Easier to reach than opening the hatch and leaning down in there? Check.
Did one run with these... and emptied them. Then did a second run... the gauge must be wrong when the boat (270 FV) is idle at the dock. I've now got a full 14 gallon tank, a full blue 5gal tank and a 1/2 of a second blue tank with fuel in them. The others were all it needed to fill the tank.
Gas was 2.29 a gallon. Cheapest cost to fill the tank ever!
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200306735_200306735?cm_mmc=Google-pla&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_medium=Fuel%20Transfer%20%2B%20Lubrication%20%3E%20Fuel%20Tanks%20%3E%20Auxiliary-Transfer%20Tanks&utm_campaign=RDS&utm_content=3490114&&lid=92700041854716179&ds_s_kwgid=58700000666743360&ds_e_product_group_id=654125173873&ds_e_product_store_id=&ds_e_ad_type=pla&ds_s_inventory_feed_id=97700000001662305&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjtui9suL6AIVUxx9Ch0eRwzVEAQYAiABEgLBMvD_BwE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PGRR5W
My power's out from a downed tree, so I filled the genny with my last plastic fuel container and (of course) spilled fuel all over the place. I'm done with plastic cans. It's such a primitive tool compared to the Justrite can.
Go Steelers!!!
Go Steelers!!!