battery selection

rasbury

Think it is time to replace at least my starting battery....the ones I bought at the auto parts store I have had I think for 3 years and I think this is why my windlass is having problems...just to long a run on an old battery....I hate to ask this question and I don't have 2 grand to drop in batteries but can you break it down a little as to what group I need and CCA and then I can go shopping.....

aero3113

I just bought two group 27 (SRM-27) Deep Cycle batteries today from Interstate. 

aero3113

This is what I have for starting.

PickleRick

Got any local battety supply shops?    Usually better prices for a better battery than box stores

Willhound

I have exactly what @aero3113 has. 3 years going on 4 but will likely change them out before next year. Always liked Interstate batteries.

TonyG13

I swapped out all three of mine this year (1-Group 31 Deep Cycle and 2-Group 24 Starter). I found the best price from Lowe's. They are Deka brand (which is manufactured by East Penn and identical to West Marine house brand). Lowe's price was $20-30 less each than WM or anywhere else. Got them in a week and stamped with the current month so they were fresh off the assembly line. Extremely happy with them so far. 

rasbury

what is all the group stuff mean? I understand the CCA but beyond that I"m kind of lost... I understand deep cycle but don't need that for starting...

Willhound

The "group" identifies the size (dimensions) and type of battery. So a "Group 31" for example should be about the same regardless of brand.

rasbury

So first place I pull up a marine battery at o'riley auto parts, group 27, 1050 mca and its 96 bucks. Really that easy? What about amp hours and reserve capacity? Or are they all about the same. This battery is made by Johnson controls...

Ian

I put these in start of 19 season @rasbury:

House battery West Marine 15020258 Group 31 Dual Purpose AGM, 105Ah

Starting batteries West Marine 15020175 Group 34 High Cranking Power AGM

trip_n

i hava 270 and using these sams club = duracell / deka made
https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-agm-deep-cycle-marine-and-rv-battery-group-size-sl34magm/prod3590225?xid=plp_product_1_7

YYZRC

I just bought 3 group 31 deep cycle for house.

aero3113

@YYZRC , you have 3 house batteries?

YYZRC

I will soon

I’m hoping the extra weight will also help with my list to starboard. 

Willhound

rasbury said:

So first place I pull up a marine battery at o'riley auto parts, group 27, 1050 mca and its 96 bucks. Really that easy? What about amp hours and reserve capacity? Or are they all about the same. This battery is made by Johnson controls...

It really can be that easy. You can compare reserve and amp hours on the house batteries and cranking amps on the starting batteries and the warranty periods but really a battery is a battery. Stick with a brand name, and yes, Johnson Controls probably makes about half the batteries on the market, just sold under different names.

rasbury

And all these matt/agm or what ever fancy batteries  250 plus don't sound like they last any longer?

Willhound

The construction of those batteries make them less likely to fail from vibration and heat. And less maintenance. Most also have longer warranties. Likely will last longer.  But no guarantees. 

Ian

If you go AGM confirm the charger is compatible.  I am told most are, some need to be switch selected to use different types, I asked about mine and it was self setting/adjusting.

PickleRick

My a.g.m. batteries are around 100 to 120 each, group 31.  Group 27 wasnt much of a savings.  Contact your local small battery supply store and see if they will give you a discount on 3.

If i were buying for resale and passing these onto a customer i have a 40% mark up margin.  Thats still under 250 a battery.  

I buy direct from a battery supplier, im sure they are paying less than 75 to 80 for these batteries.

Come up to the Greenville area and I'll make you a deal lol.

212rowboat

took me a while to convert, but AGM is the way to go.... can be discharged almost cemetery without damage to cells, and charge quickly.  

That said..... 

I bought a really nice 80a charger recently, and was able to recondition and restore 8 batteries i had sitting around.  Flooded lead acid, mind you... all group 27... the charger cost $225.... replacing those batteries would have been over a grand... they seem to be holding up just fine, too.  A couple are over 10 years old.  

mattie

Personal opinion - I still prefer old fashioned lead acid batts. (LA)

If you do go to the newer style AGM, GEL etc - just watch your onboard charger settings. (beating a dead horse here)
If taken care of the newer style should last longer than old LA's. Key word is 'should'.

2 cents

69fastback

XS batteries makes some excellent AGM batteries, of that’s the route you go. 

aero3113

I installed my new house batteries today, when I went to close the hatch I noticed how much quicker it moved. Up and down was a huge difference in speed.

rasbury

Hey, well I don't get a plastic box storing and releasing energy. If you have a 50 amp battery which I have no idea how much the windless draws. I looked through the boat bag and nothing on it...

Willhound

If it's the usual Horizon 600 the manual shows a 45 amp draw. Input draw is 550 watts, so watts divided by volts = amps, 550/12 is actually about 45.8.
But here's something to consider. Don't worry about the windlass because as far as I'm concerned it shouldn't be used without the engine running and the alternator feeding the battery. My rationale is that while setting the anchor I want the engine running so that once I drop anchor and let some rode out, I can give a slight bump in reverse to set the anchor. Or, if I don't like the anchor set, I can pull up and reset it without having to go through the whole run blower/start engine thing. And when pulling anchor to leave, I never..never...pull an anchor without the engine already started and running. What happens if you pull anchor and then it doesn't start? Hastily try and drop the anchor again? What if you lose power and can't drop the anchor...now you're pooched.

Ian

I agree with @Willhound and how I do it.

trip_n

do you have a generator 

rasbury

Do have a generator and always have the engine  running going up and down...runs out of juice it seems trying to retrieve..like the battery just cant handle it ....

Willhound

Mine will do the same if I overload it. Just stops. The windlass is only designed to lift the anchor and rode, not drag the entire boat. I usually start raising anchor and once the slack is lifted I give a short nudge in gear towards the anchor and continue to lift as I go. Much easier on the windlass and battery. If you do the same and it's still cutting out, then yeah, battery.

trip_n

i have not  encountered these problems = same boat n generator. .. i noticed 2 yrs ago after coved no generator my starting battery would drag/weak cranking = i replaced with the 2 agm from sams - i sent a email to the battery charger co. replied that it was compatible - i posted cant find ...  i am was guilty and trying to remember - when docked i leave the charger on - when running generator i try and remember to turn of = cycle batteries = they have worked for us 

Dream_Inn

Just note that you can always drop an anchor with or without a working windlass.  Yes, it's a bit more manual, but you can pull the line out of the windlass and slowly drop it in an emergency.