2008 330EC Waeco Fridge Low Voltage Cut Off (LVCO)

pinkish_panther

I believe I have read everything I can find on this topic both for boats and RVs.  
I am experiencing what seems to be a common problem with Waeco units, even with my house battery voltage near 13V when the fridge attempts to start the compressor the voltage drops below the LVCO (around 10.2V) causing it to short cycle and not get to the expected temperature.

My house batteries are brand new - 2 x 6V 235Ah Deep Cycle.

I’ve taken a separate battery and wired it directly to the fridge and it works as expected so I tend to agree with the majority who believe its a wiring issue - but I believe the wiring is original to my 330EC.

I tried to trace the power cables back to the panel.  My DC panel has a dedicated breaker for the cockpit fridge but doesn’t seem to have one for the cabin.  There is a cabin breaker with a large wire on it but I do not know where the fridge wire goes.  I was able to get as far as the engine compartment then it joins another wrapped bundle of wires and seems to disappear.

Anyone have any suggestions?

I’m thinking I may use one of the unused breakers and cut the wire in the engine compartment and wire the fridge directly to the unused breaker but that will only cover the positive side, not sure if it will be enough...

All thoughts are welcome.

Thanks in advance.

LaRea

I feel your pain.  When mine was doing the same thing a couple months ago, I did all the same reading and testing that you've done.  At one point, I pulled the fridge out and was fussing around with a multimeter, removing plugs and testing voltages.  For no good reason, the fridge started working.  It has worked perfectly since then.  I still don't understand why.  

Sorry for that non-answer, but it's all I have.

Handymans342

Where the DC wires plug on to the board, clean those up and make sure they are tight 

tniggel

If there is room, add a separate 15 amp breaker and run 10awg(if not 8) depending on distance to the fridge.  Heavier wire and dedicated breaker will help.  When I installed mine.  I used the same power source in the dc panel with its own line to a dedicated breaker

tniggel

Here’s a great chart for wires

pinkish_panther

Thanks everyone, good news.  I was able to use the Acc. Breaker in the DC panel and connect to the existing fridge wire (looked like AWG 12) I’d identified in the Engine compartment to a new short wire AWG 10 - we were out all weekend and it finally ran overnight - first time since I’ve owned it.

I was concerned I’d have to do the negative wire as well which would have been a pain since that one really gets lost. 

Note that there is still a .1 V drop at the fridge compared to the batteries directly (it was .3 with the other wire), and when the compressor is running the voltage reading at the fridge drops more than 1V - but as long as that isn’t 10.2V it keeps going.

YYZRC

YYZRC

pinkish_panther said:

Thanks everyone, good news.  I was able to use the Acc. Breaker in the DC panel and connect to the existing fridge wire (looked like AWG 12) I’d identified in the Engine compartment to a new short wire AWG 10 - we were out all weekend and it finally ran overnight - first time since I’ve owned it.

I was concerned I’d have to do the negative wire as well which would have been a pain since that one really gets lost. 

Note that there is still a .1 V drop at the fridge compared to the batteries directly (it was .3 with the other wire), and when the compressor is running the voltage reading at the fridge drops more than 1V - but as long as that isn’t 10.2V it keeps going.

I ran 10/2 from the fridge to the panel and used the accessory breaker. There’s a bus bar right next to the panel for easy negative connection. 

Works perfect now for under $50! Thank you @pinkish_panther for leading the way.