Alignment bar wont touch splines...

212rowboat

for the record, the mallet isn't needed to insert the alignment rod- it's to clear the area of obstruction so you can see what's happening when it takes that dip or raises... it's not easy to see when you've got a hand on it.  

Michael T

No argument or disrespect @212 as you are (IMO) an awesome source of knowledge here. A few years back (OK 20+) I was visiting a boat manufacturer as the guest of a friend who owned a dealership. I was standing beside his lead shop technician (one of those rare 5 star Mercruiser factory certified techs) while an installer on the factory floor was "persuading" an alignment tool with a rubber mallet. I asked the the tech, "That can't be right?" He replied, "That's way beyond not right. It should take at most one hand." A tech from another dealership questioned what we saw. We were abruptly taken out of the "rigging shop" to another area of the factory. IMO, if your alignment bar is Mercruiser OEM and not itself damaged it should slide-in pretttty easily.

PickleRick

My alignment, once i corrected the missing rear mount spacer, made the removal/install of the tool, a 2 finger one thumb affair.  

I have the advantage of an A frame.  No helper needed for most of the job.

I hang the motor from the thermostat housing and raise/lower the motor with a chain hoist. I can raise or lower from behind the boat with the alignment tool in my other hand. 

Once close(had to jerk tool out/shove it in with two hands)  working the left/right side mounts up and down in small incremented adjustments I got it dialed in.  That last bit of dialing in took the longest as it required lots of trips up and down the ladder. It was all trial and error.  

Other than installing the gimball I've never had to hit the alignment tool  with a mallet.

Getting the gimball back in center after removing the drive to check alignment sometimes takes a wack as it can get cocked removing when the u joint drops a bit.  I have done with a jerk of the arm, never had to use a mallet.  The tool was pushed in just enough to where it did not slide into the coupler.




I didn't bump the key over to check alignment in 4 positions, I turned it over slowly with a breaker bar in 1/4 turn increments.  

J3ff

Better, sealed bearing, right? 

J3ff

thanks Al, assuming drilled dot goes facing to the rear... no reason to grease it.... put it in the freezer the night before? Any other thoughts/tips ? 

PickleRick

I did freeze mine then coated sides with a little all in one oil with my fingers before install. 

Still had to beat it like it owed me money.   

My bearing driver is attached to my alignment bar so it works well to install it straight, assuming it's aligned before install.

J3ff

Risers are done.

Two full 360 rotations down and it goes in just a LITTLE bit easier... seems like it needs more. This is with the OLD gimbal bearing.. 

Going to take a break from boat work and cool off a bit. Will be back at it sooner or later. 

J3ff

Put it down even more, did not get easier, no where near 2 fingers in and out... guess I'll swap the new gimbal bearing in and go from there.. need to eliminate that variable.. 

J3ff

As always there's an issue.

Bearing pulled, go to put the other in.... the stupid tool I bought (LOOKING AT YOU PR :P)
makes you drill a hole through the alignment bar... because we all have a **** drill press laying around right?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NCQ1TWN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pretty annoying that it's buried in their listing that you actually have to drill a hole through some pretty hard metal. I would have never bought this one if I knew. 

Looks like the project is on hold till I can go pay someone to drill a **** hole.
 
OR

I guess it's off to Home depot or ace hardware to go look for something else to use... maybe a pipe with an end cap or something... all I've got here is a basic electric drill. 

PickleRick

I drilled mine by hand. I have a drill press at work but I have a pretty steady arm with a hand drill.  sharp drill bits and the alignment bar clamped to a saw horse.  The trick is to get the pilot hole straight.    

Ymmv. 

I offered to let you borrow mine, id have shipped it to you! 

J3ff

What bit did you use? how'd ya get it dead center? At this point I'm more annoyed that they buried the fact that it has to be drilled in a 15 sentence paragraph. 

PickleRick

Many drills have levels on them.  

Use a sewing tape measure to mark dead center on 180 degree sides. So long as your saw horse or whatever you're clamped to is level you're going to drill straight IF you can keep a steady arm.  




I don't remember the pilot hole size or final drill bit. I think it was 1/4 inch but I wouldnt bet my life on it.  

reneechris14

Go but 1 inch piece off treaded rod some nuts and washers maybe?

J3ff

Going with the 3 inch pvc home made method

J3ff

Well that was a waste of time.. will have to come back to this on Wed when the tool arrives.