Marine air 16k reversing valve

Liberty44140

When I first turn on my cabin unit, if it’s cold and I need heat it will not produce heat. I’ve tried leaving it go for a half hour to see if the reversing valve will click over and nope, blows cold air like in ac mode. If I turn the unit off, and then back on, it clicks right over and produces nice heat all weekend. It will flip itself from ac to heat to maintain 70, no issues. Back the following weekend and in heat mode it blows cold air. Turn off, turn on, nice heat all weekend. So the valve works and doesn’t seem stuck since it clicks over with one off/on cycle. Could it be the valve solenoid?

Aqua_Aura

Do you have it in auto mode or is it in heat mode? These are not the most user friendly if your panel is the same as mine. 

Handymans342

You can whack the reversing valve when in heat 

Liberty44140

AA, I had it in combo. I can have it in heat only, cool only, or combo. Have been using combo but this happens in heat only too. 

Handy, even though with one turn off/turn back on you think it needs a wack? This has happened that last 4 Friday nights. Was thinking it’s electrica since it pops right over with one off/on l but maybe I’m wrong.

in reality this isn’t a huge deal now that I know when I get to the boat and it’s cold I need to turn it on in heat, then off, then back on and all good. Not worth the price of a new valve but would be worth the cost of the solenoid If that could be it?

Liberty44140

So the plan is to just change out the reversing valve solenoid over the winter. Have read a couple of blogs online where that has taken care of similar issues. I'll get a pic of it this weekend assuming I can figure out where the solenoid is  

Handymans342

On the valve itself

raybo3

Most likely you have a "weak" coil. I have the same problem. Very unlikely that the valve is stuck because oil runs through it and its always lubricated. Mine is a 2002 and can not find the correct coil plus I dont use the heat anyway.

Liberty44140

Ray, the coil is the solenoid, right? 

Handymans342

Yes Lib

Liberty44140

Thanks! The blog I read with a similar issue on a boat was a bad coil and the google says the coil is the solenoid (actually inside the solenoid). Great, so if this is my issue the solenoid should cover it. 

raybo3

Lib the coil is on a "shaft" that actuates the solenoid valve. The coil has a bolt that holds it on with 2 wires going to it. The guy from marine air says the valve hardly ever fails. Usually its the coil. So if its the coil there is no need to "open" the system. Just replace the coil. BTW mine is a 120vac coil. (this picture is just a reference and not the one you need)

Liberty44140

Thanks! I hope to get some pictures of the valve this weekend and then maybe you guys can tell me what is what before I order parts. Thanks 

Handymans342

So that’s the need for the schematic so you can determine if the coil needs voltage in the heat mode to activate and reverse the flow of the Freon. If it does need voltage when the thermostat is in heat mode and the voltage is not present then you have other issues. 

Aqua_Aura

is this the right schematic?

reneechris14

I love pictures 

Handymans342

Yes it is but I really need a schematic of the control board although it looks like the reversing valve coil is 110V and energize in heat mode. So put it in heat and check for 110V across the 2 wires

Liberty44140

Thanks for the schematic AA! Handy I’ll report back. 

Aqua_Aura

I got nothing but time on my hands..... I'm at work 😴. 

Liberty44140

Ok, here is a photo, I believe this is the reversing valve and I circled what I think is the coil/solenoid. Right? 

Handymans342

Correct

Liberty44140

Glorious, will look in to changing it when winter projects commence in feb 

Handymans342

Why change it?? You haven’t even diagnosed it yet. 

Liberty44140

Seems like there is a very good chance that the solenoid is the issue so might as well give that a shot. Outside of that what could it be? 

Is the message sent to the solenoid coming from the push button control display (thermostat)? 

Handymans342

Liberty44140 said:

Seems like there is a very good chance that the solenoid is the issue so might as well give that a shot. Outside of that what could it be? 

Is the message sent to the solenoid coming from the push button control display (thermostat)? 

I told you when in heat mode check for 110 volts at the coil wires or it could have 110 when in AC mode. One way or another AC or Heat would need 110 volts. If you don’t have it something else is wrong

Liberty44140

Ok, ok Handy.... boat is now winterized and stored but I’ll wait to replace until I can test it...Thanks! 

Handymans342

Lib, they very rarely go bad. 

Liberty44140

So your thinking thermostat (button display?)

Handymans342

Or control board. I could diagnose this in 15 min but I’m not there. 

Liberty44140

Gotcha, well if your near Lake Erie id love to have you aboard! Until then, I’ll do some troubleshooting and revive this thread in the spring. Looks like the digital thermostat is $270 and the control board is $270 so I’d certainly want to diagnose them. At the very least I’m going to make sure all connections are tight and corrosion free!

Liberty44140

Ok Handy, I think I may use one of my many vacation days and go spend a day on the boat in storage getting a jump on projects. What can I test while the boat is on the hard and winterized? While I cant start the unit, I can power up the display. Boat can be plugged in to 110. Can I do anything to test the solenoid? Thanks, 

Handymans342

You can still check the voltage to the coil when placing thermostat in heat and AC. The unit will go off because of no flow and you may want to unhook the pump off the control board first so it doesn’t run with no water.