4 or so years ago new 383 went in, complete new transom assembly went in. Ran it with the old drive that was 10+ years old, trouble didn't start for 3 years after that. The trouble was a prop shaft seal let go and the transom mount seal started leaking. 13 months ago a mechanic took the old drive off when I brought it back to him knocking. He found rust inside the drive and We replaced it with a sea core drive. Not sure about matching things up... That would be something that should have been done when the engine was replaced correct?
I didn't know a mis adjusted alignment could take out the inner workings of the bravo, only the u joint and gimball. That would suck to need a top housing rebuid so soon.
I agree completely. I had mine pulled a year ago and alignment, after only one year, was way off. I mean, to where one drive would not come off. Had to pull the motor and change hub (gimbal bearing and u joint too) because splines were messed up. Drives were fine.
The mechanic is starting by pulling off the drive and checking alignment... We'll see. I told him to order a new gimbal and be sure it's the right one..
Well it's July 7th and apparently the boat hasn't been touched yet. The mechanic sent me a text saying he's working on an 'estimate to send over tomorrow, will ask for for some $$ and I hope to have everything put together by the end of next week'... well that's just great because the boat needs to be in the water ready to go by the 19th. Sent him an email saying so. Keep in mind this means he has not taken one look at the drive or the alignment. <taking a deep breath>
A misaligned drive can cause a host of very expensive problems. That's why I had the drives pulled every Fall when the boats came out and personally inserted the Mecruiser alignment tool to check alignment (have posted pictures on this forum before). Sort of like a prostate exam for the boat or as a grandchild says a "prostrate" exam which is technically correct too as I wouldn't want that exam standing-up.
It will be worth checking your engine mount lag screw holes. Mine were in poor shape/stripped and only one engine had been out one time. Redrilled, epoxy filled, drilled and then screwed down properly.
Keys don't have an off season (anymore). They do have a rush at mini lobster and lobster season as well as a pull out frenzy before named storms. I envy the lawn mower shops down there, they make bank all year while I twiddle my thumbs from Thanksgiving until Valentine's day. Commecial landscaping guys pay 10k for a commercial zero turn but freak over a 300 dollar repair bill for servicing the hydro system, much like an automatic transmisson service. That mower pays their bills. The same guys pay 5k for a Craigslist boat or motorcycle and don't think twice to drop 1500 bucks in accessories or service work, for a weekend toy. I'm in the wrong line of work. Black_Diamond said:
It will be worth checking your engine mount lag screw holes. Mine were in poor shape/stripped and only one engine had been out one time. Redrilled, epoxy filled, drilled and then screwed down properly.
I have repaired some before with thickened epoxy. I have considered some galvanized studs in place of the lag bolts. I feel like the riggers from the factory always drill and install these at an angle with motors in place rather than setting motor in, marking holes and then lifting motor out to get them in straight.
What really sucks here is dealing with people that don't stand behind their work. I don't know that if you took it to a dealer you'd have any better luck. How many hours on the drive? Seems like even out of alignment it would take a while to f something up...mine is an 06 with 300 hours, I have had no noises or issues for 200 of those hours and the original outdrive...I did have to replace a seal at the foot on the out put shaft but had a buddy that for me.....I'm sure it will blow up tomorrow now that I said it...
Mechanic has inspected the out drive. It checks out perfectly, no obvious reason for the knock in N.
He inspected the HUB and TRANSOM ASSEMBLY - both checked out 100% fine.
At this point he's going to triple check that he's installing the correct gimbal bearing and we're going to do that.
Raw water pump is being replaced as it started leaking from the bearing at some point. Boat has been bottom cleaned/sanded, engine serviced, drive off and inspected... planning to fly back to Corona Land (aka Florida) on Saturday and pick her up. WE'll see how it goes. Not happy that there isn't a 100% source for thise noise, but whatever.
Boat going in this week. Prepped and painted the drive today, the mechanic who installed it said "You dont paint sea core drives" - well, that did not seem to be the truth after talking to Mercury..
Water pump needed to be replaced, this was a 4/5 year old pump. Not sure why it would go bad but it did.
Mechanic went through everything and replaced anything that needed to be replaced. We're doing some kind of timing check on the sea trial (is timing adjustment still a thing on these motors?)
So, the unloaded drive lower at warm idle there is a knock, but loaded (in gear) there isnt... outdrive and gimbal studied and checked out... guessing the coupler is good or the boat wouldn't move...
I'd be thinking to look the ujoints on the carden joints.. a cracked bearing cap allowing movement, which will just get worse, would cause a knock. As soon as it's loaded (twirling the lower and prop) it's forced to one position and eliminates the knock.
A broken snap ring on the u joints can also cause play. There should be zero lateral play in the ujoints.
4 years on a raw water impeller is certainly nothing...yours sounds like the bearing on the pump went which still can be rebuilt very simply...much better than spending a grand on a new pump.
4 years on a raw water impeller is certainly nothing...yours sounds like the bearing on the pump went which still can be rebuilt very simply...much better than spending a grand on a new pump.
the impeller was replaced 13 months ago... yeah the bearing went... no idea if he tried to rebuild or not, I just need this thing to work!
Hanging on the boat in the AC .. just ran her hard, 45 mins at 4k with no breaks... Got back to the dock and she's as quiet as can be! Knocking on wood.. Hoping this chapter is closed... We'll see! Also the bilge is bone dry and the boat was doing 26 at 4k, without making much noise, vibration was less as well.
Guess we'll see how long this paint lasts!
While that paint isn't even close to perfect it looks darn good for not being waxed in 15 months, all I did was give it a five minute wash yesterday!
4 years on a raw water impeller is certainly nothing...yours sounds like the bearing on the pump went which still can be rebuilt very simply...much better than spending a grand on a new pump.
was 400 bucks for the new pump.. sigh, wish I could charge mercury for that.
The entire job came in at 3500.. work done was:
RPM dependant, knock coming from upper outdrive area.
Unaffected by gear selection
Drain gear oil and inspect for metal
No metal shavings present in gearlube
Possible loss of gear tooth / bearing damage
Further inspection needed to determine cause
Check and confirm alignment
Inspect gimbal seal, ok
Inspect engine coupler, ok
Ujoints ok, no play, ok
Check shift ok
Check taurus ring alignment, ok
Inspect gears / Bearings ok
Inspect shift plate ok
Inspect shift cables and adjustment ok
Correspond with mercury regarding issue. 3 different times, 3 different people. Consensus is to replace gimbal, confirm alignment and shift adjustment. Upper unit warranty replacement possible if problem persists
Remove trim rams, Remove outdrive
Clean and prep for removal
Pull gimbal from bell housing
Wire Brush / clean mounting flange
Freeze new bearing
Align and drive into place
Confirm seated, grease area
Remove drive lube monitor hose, clean and prep for new
Install new drive monitor hose
Check alignment and adjust as needed
Grease driveshaft
Reinstall outdrive
Confirm shift operation
Remove and replace external Trim lines / Remove and replace trim relays.
Soak line ends in deep creep, work loose
Remove trim ram rear pins to access lines
Clean threads / prepare new hoses
Install new hoses
Remove failing trim relays
Clean mounting surfaces, prepare wiring
Install new relays, test
FIll and bleed trim system
Test range
Remove old garboard plug
Clean and sand garboard plug flange area
Pack epoxy into holes, coating and filling as much as possible
Once cured, drill and install new garboard plug. Through Bolt if possible
Seal plug inner flange with silicone
Drain water from system
Remove serpentine belt
Loosen and remove clamps on inlet and outlet
Remove feed and fed hoses
Remove pulley
Remove complete water pump assembly
On bench, Disassemble water pump
Prepare rear housing for new impeller housing install, assemble
Reassemble pump and reinstall onto motor
Connect hoses and clamp
Install pulley, install serpentine belt
Run and test
**Water pump pulley unable to remove from old pump housing. Over 3 hours spent trying to get it off.
Bring to Shop to use oxy/acetylene and press. Was able to drive pulley halfway before it began to bend and warp.
Ultimately the pulley was damaged and unusable even if I was able to remove it.
Locate new pulley, oem mercury
Purchase and install new pulley
Continue with service as normal
Drain engine oil
Remove oil filter
Clean mounting flange and install new filter
Fill engine oil
Previously drained gearlube
Remove old seals
Fill gear lube with HPGL
Install drain plugs with new seals
Top off monitor
Corrosion protection on motor / batteries and transom assembly
Check fluids, top off as needed
Remove and replace water separating fuel filter
Grease zircs
Remove props, Clean and gease shaft. Reinstall props
Remove and replace zincs
Run and test, check oil levels
Distributor cap cleaning
Spark plugs
Wirebrush / Spraypaint any rusted areas
The mechanic did not charge me for the 1+ hours of time we waited for the yard to figure out their nonsense today and get us in the water. He then went on a sea trial with me, checking things when we first put it in the water, after running it up on plane for 15 mins and then again checking it out when I dropped him off. This is the kind of guy who actually will listen and I believe does really want things to be great, you don't feel like just another number with him. Overall very pleased with how things turned out. Let's hope things go smoothly for at least this winter season!! There's a couple of storms brewing out in the atlantic.. would be comedy gold if it was coming back out on Friday or next week because of a storm!!
Comments
Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express
I understand there is a labor shortage as well as parts supply shortages everywhere right now.
I'm not even set up for marine repair and it still takes me less than 10 min to roll out my cherry picker and remove my drive.
PC BYC, Holland, MI
Black_Diamond said:
I have repaired some before with thickened epoxy. I have considered some galvanized studs in place of the lag bolts. I feel like the riggers from the factory always drill and install these at an angle with motors in place rather than setting motor in, marking holes and then lifting motor out to get them in straight.
He inspected the HUB and TRANSOM ASSEMBLY - both checked out 100% fine.
At this point he's going to triple check that he's installing the correct gimbal bearing and we're going to do that.
Raw water pump is being replaced as it started leaking from the bearing at some point. Boat has been bottom cleaned/sanded, engine serviced, drive off and inspected... planning to fly back to Corona Land (aka Florida) on Saturday and pick her up. WE'll see how it goes. Not happy that there isn't a 100% source for thise noise, but whatever.
Water pump needed to be replaced, this was a 4/5 year old pump. Not sure why it would go bad but it did.
Mechanic went through everything and replaced anything that needed to be replaced. We're doing some kind of timing check on the sea trial (is timing adjustment still a thing on these motors?)
Guess we'll see what happens!
Prop cleaning tomorrow after work.
I'd be thinking to look the ujoints on the carden joints.. a cracked bearing cap allowing movement, which will just get worse, would cause a knock. As soon as it's loaded (twirling the lower and prop) it's forced to one position and eliminates the knock.
A broken snap ring on the u joints can also cause play. There should be zero lateral play in the ujoints.
Guess we'll see how long this paint lasts!
While that paint isn't even close to perfect it looks darn good for not being waxed in 15 months, all I did was give it a five minute wash yesterday!
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
The entire job came in at 3500.. work done was:
RPM dependant, knock coming from upper outdrive area.
Unaffected by gear selection
Drain gear oil and inspect for metal
No metal shavings present in gearlube
Possible loss of gear tooth / bearing damage
Further inspection needed to determine cause
Check and confirm alignment
Inspect gimbal seal, ok
Inspect engine coupler, ok
Ujoints ok, no play, ok
Check shift ok
Check taurus ring alignment, ok
Inspect gears / Bearings ok
Inspect shift plate ok
Inspect shift cables and adjustment ok
Correspond with mercury regarding issue. 3 different times, 3 different people. Consensus is to replace gimbal, confirm alignment and shift adjustment. Upper unit warranty replacement possible if problem persists
Remove trim rams, Remove outdrive
Clean and prep for removal
Pull gimbal from bell housing
Wire Brush / clean mounting flange
Freeze new bearing
Align and drive into place
Confirm seated, grease area
Remove drive lube monitor hose, clean and prep for new
Install new drive monitor hose
Check alignment and adjust as needed
Grease driveshaft
Reinstall outdrive
Confirm shift operation
Remove and replace external Trim lines / Remove and replace trim relays.
Soak line ends in deep creep, work loose
Remove trim ram rear pins to access lines
Clean threads / prepare new hoses
Install new hoses
Remove failing trim relays
Clean mounting surfaces, prepare wiring
Install new relays, test
FIll and bleed trim system
Test range
Remove old garboard plug
Clean and sand garboard plug flange area
Pack epoxy into holes, coating and filling as much as possible
Once cured, drill and install new garboard plug. Through Bolt if possible
Seal plug inner flange with silicone
Drain water from system
Remove serpentine belt
Loosen and remove clamps on inlet and outlet
Remove feed and fed hoses
Remove pulley
Remove complete water pump assembly
On bench, Disassemble water pump
Prepare rear housing for new impeller housing install, assemble
Reassemble pump and reinstall onto motor
Connect hoses and clamp
Install pulley, install serpentine belt
Run and test
**Water pump pulley unable to remove from old pump housing. Over 3 hours spent trying to get it off.
Bring to Shop to use oxy/acetylene and press. Was able to drive pulley halfway before it began to bend and warp.
Ultimately the pulley was damaged and unusable even if I was able to remove it.
Locate new pulley, oem mercury
Purchase and install new pulley
Continue with service as normal
Drain engine oil
Remove oil filter
Clean mounting flange and install new filter
Fill engine oil
Previously drained gearlube
Remove old seals
Fill gear lube with HPGL
Install drain plugs with new seals
Top off monitor
Corrosion protection on motor / batteries and transom assembly
Check fluids, top off as needed
Remove and replace water separating fuel filter
Grease zircs
Remove props, Clean and gease shaft. Reinstall props
Remove and replace zincs
Run and test, check oil levels
Distributor cap cleaning
Spark plugs
Wirebrush / Spraypaint any rusted areas