Loss of power

PickleRick

A few thoughts on fluids

I changed all my trim tabs/trim pump/power steering over to a mercon rated ATF.  Valvoline/mobile one both make it in full synthetic but I generally use what's on sale. 

Dex is coolant is mercrusier compatible (dex is GM anyway) so i run that in my closed loop system.  If green is in it then you'll need a good pure water (I always use distilled water) to make a few flushes until the system is clear before making the change.

Fresh or closed loop cooling will run hotter than you raw water guys.  The engine is more effiencnt at sliglty higher temps, many of the newer vortec v8s run at or slightly above 200 in automobile use. You'll also notice a more even engine temp range between all the cylinders vs raw water cooling which can lead to more even wear/longer life span.

The 140/160 thermostats are for salt/fresh water applications.  These temps make the engine less efficient but prevents issues that salt water will cause when it gets too hot.  

Alpha 1s (gen 2 anyway) also came with the same foot oil remote resevrior/alarm that the bravos had.  

kennydalglish

I bought the boat used so not sure exactly what is in the power steering reservoir right now ?  Would it be an issue if I chose ATF (Dex III) and put that in to top it off or is it recmmended to drain like you said and be safe ?

YYZRC

It is really easy to drain some out by just pulling the lower line off the reservoir. I wouldn’t worry about draining the whole system. 

PickleRick

When i drain mine I use a pump but a turkey baster also works great. You can drain at the low pressure hose of the pump but I don't because I hate cleaning up the mess, i am clumsy and will spill some. 

 If pinched for time you can just top off but change it at the seasons end. Its always a great idea to change all fluids at the end of the year.  Along with corrosive issues old used oils can cause, you can find/get rid if any moisture found in any of the fluids before winter hits and things freeze.  

I treat used boats like used vehicles, assume its been neglected and change all fluids/common maintenance and wear items.



It's not imperative you drain the entire system unless you have water or other contamination.  I just find the bearings/seals last longer in the system when fluids are changed regularly. Once a year is probably over kill on the power steering but it's better than a full flush every 3 or so years.  

The only system you don't want to mix unknown fluids in is the coolant system as you can ruin a radiator, heater core or in a boat a heat exchanger.  

reneechris14

#1 map sensor
#2 throttle position sensor
#3 IAC 
The iac should have two beeps every 2 seconds  every minute  mot a constant. Unplugged will still beep. 
The gear lube reservoir can be unplugged,  but even full if the float is gummed up it could be at fault. Need to know if the computer is a ecm555, you said the year is 2000, maybe motor rebuild is computer the same.

PickleRick

reneechris14 said:

#1 map sensor
#2 throttle position sensor
#3 IAC 
The iac should have two beeps every 2 seconds  every minute  mot a constant. Unplugged will still beep. 
The gear lube reservoir can be unplugged,  but even full if the float is gummed up it could be at fault. Need to know if the computer is a ecm555, you said the year is 2000, maybe motor rebuild is computer the same.

The resevrior can easily be removed and I've seen gum in the bottom of them before.  If it is indeed sticky can't he drump it out and clean it with mineral spirits?    I'm not sure what the best cleaning agent would be?  

reneechris14

Yes mineral spirits is best, put some in shake it and dump it out a couple of times refill and good to go.

kennydalglish

Ok,  Mechanic hooked up the magic diagnostic tool.  Throwing a TPS code.  Need to replace the Throttle Position sensor.   

I have a MAG 350 MPI Engine with Bravo III.  Looking for the part number for the Throttle position sensor.  Engine serial # 0L363645

Narrowed down to what I think are 2 possibilities:
803148 or 805226A1 ?  Any ideas which one is the correct one ?  They both look similar in their images.

randy56

Good news Kenny, you found the issue. here is a link to a parts house that sells them. Is it possible to buy both and send then one that does work not back?

They have a break down of year and engine size. 

https://www.boats.net/product/mercury/8M0097035?gclid=Cj0KCQjwl_SHBhCQARIsAFIFRVVwrKyT0yJf4C7NKd5nBvbxuEpMIqgF8aKq0liNevLX9Z2VhoxSPZMaArHAEALw_wcB

kennydalglish

Ok everyone thought I would post that the boat is now fixed and engine running and idling well.  Replacing the TPS was the trick.  No more alarm.  I think I would still be chasing my tail here if we didn't hook up the diagnostic tool to point me to root cause.  Thanks for all that responded on this thread.

reneechris14

Winner winner chicken dinner
(Copy cat)

captkevin

Glad to hear it was an easy fix & you are back on the water

randy56

Allright! now lets see some boatful pictures of that fine looking 232 Rinker.  

kennydalglish

Of course Randy,  don't have too many pics out on the water yet.  Now time to enjoy.

randy56

Lookin good Kenny. Also, looks like a happy man  in the blue shirt.

kennydalglish

Ok,  I need to revive this thread.  After replacing the sensor and running for a couple of months I get the same constant beeping again after a long run in the boat.  Same symptoms as last time where the issue was the Throttle position sensor.  So figuring it was the same thing I went out and bought yet another TPS (they are $126 and have to be ordered since I couldn't find a place that had them in stock).  Replaced the less than 60 day old sensor and stilll getting the beeping.  My mechanic yet again hooked up diagnostic tool and only error code showing was TPS.  Checked that we were getting power to the sensor (we were).  So everything is pointing towards a brand new sensor that is bad.  Driving me nuts right about now.
Especially since the 2nd sensor that fixed the issue for less than 60 days is not returnable.  Now the new one they are saying is not returnable.  Both quicksilver parts.  How can these companies get away with not having any type of warranty on these parts ??
Now,  do I go out and buy another TPS and hope that it is good this time ?  Losing faith here.

kennydalglish

My mechanic tells me I can pick up an automotive replacement however doing the research there are a couple of part numbers from AC Delco that look identical to the Quicksilver part # 803148.
The parts are much cheaper ($30-40) on Amazon.  2 part numbers that looks the same are 213-894 and 213-895.  Anyone have any experience with replacing these ??

Aqua_Aura

Don't buy them on Amazon if you can get them locally from a reputable auto parts store. Where did you get the Quicksilver part? It may not be returnable because of the seller not the company making it. 

If the error code is the TPS maybe it is a wiring problem to the TPS or another associated issue along that route. 

Grahamu

The Sierra part # is 18-7759. I need new glasses number should be 18-7757

Pat310

@Grahamu you might want to check that number.  Showing carb kit for a Yamaha 

kennydalglish

Aqua Aura I got the first part from Colony Marine and the 2nd part from Michigan Marine.  Colony has already stated no returns on any electrical parts.  I am calling Michigan Marine this morning but not expecting a good result.

kennydalglish

I take that back.  Michigan marine will take it back minus a re-stocking fee.  There is partial hope for this industry.

davidbrooks

That is good to hear.  I purchased a NMEA gateway to the tune of $400 to have it fail within a year.  I was able to work with the company but the kicker was they had to send it back to Mercuriser to "verify" it was bad and approve the refund.  It tool me almost 3 months to get the refund.  It sound like you are pretty handy.  I will tell you that i really recomend buying a Rinda Scan tool.  It will pay for itself with situations like this.  

Grahamu

I posted a Sierra # above which should be 18-7757.

kennydalglish

David,  how much are these Rinda Scan tools ?

raybo3

kennydalglish said:

David,  how much are these Rinda Scan tools ?

And what's the model number. 

davidbrooks

$600 https://marineenginedepot.com/techmate-pro-marine-scan-tool-94070c?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIjdTp4sGv8wIV09SzCh39Cw_dEAQYAiABEgKGovD_BwE

aero3113

Michigan Motorz sells them for $559 but out of stock.

https://www.michiganmotorz.com/techmate-pro-marine-engine-diagnostic-scan-tool-pcm-555-ecm-555

kennydalglish

Quick update.  4th sensor later beeping is gone and engine running fine (for now).  The Quicksilver sensor (803148) did not work.  The 2 automotive ones I bought didn't work.  Finally replaced with one I bought on EBAY (cheaper chinese non OEM part) worked.

Go figure.  Are these sensors really that flaky ?

davidbrooks

I would offer that there are just a lot of sensors for sale from lower quality sources.  When you go with a reputable dealer and pay full price you will get more reliability...normally.  I have replaced a TPS sensor and an IAC.  Only had to do it once though.