2008 280EC Rotten Transom

Aqua_Aura

So maybe it is just the plywood that lays horizontal in the lower portion of the swim deck where it meets the transom? If that is the case then it would seem a much easier fix. 

Squatch68

Well spring time has rolled around and the shop is working on my Rinker 280 now.  Engine was pulled to assess the damage to the transom.  Not good.  Whole thing, side to side is rotten.  

Be warned - my transom did not have a layer of fiberglass on the inside of the boat, only a thin layer of gelcoat.  The gelcoat cracks and does not provide any sort of protection against water.  Water is able to get right to the wood.  We were able to confirm that a crack developed along the whole top edge of the transom, where it meets the swim platform.  Water from the retractable cleats on the swim platform would run across the swim platform and down the transom into the bilge, and also through the cracked gelcoat and into the transom wood! 

There was some discussion last fall about the transom wood being sealed or unsealed around the garboard plug and the drain holes in the stringers.  I can confirm that the transom wood is indeed unsealed around the garboard plug (the circular cut out) and at the drain holes in the stringers.  The stringers are actually completely exposed on the outboard side (other side of the drain holes) for approximately 12" forward of the transom! I will be looking to seal these up once they are dry since the area  is exposed now.  

Luckily my stringers are still in ok condition.  Wet but still solid.  All the transom wood has been removed and things are drying out right now.  

I would say some corners were cut during construction.  You will see in the photos that thickened resin wasn't applied to the whole surface between the fiberglass and the transom wood, and there are actually some hollow sections with no wood or resin at all.  My trim tabs are only screwed into the fiberglass, no wood backer or anything.  Maybe this is standard... I'm not sure.  Seems a bit shotty though.  

Good news is I am able to do some work on the engine that is otherwise a pain, and I will be able to get the bilge looking/engine bay looking brand spanking new! 

Enjoy some images: 

Here you can see the horizontal crack in the gelcoat along the top edge of the transom.  You can see the dirty water runs from the retractable cleats down to this edge.  Can also see there is no fiberglass skin, only gelcoat.  Only fiberglass is the tabbing at the bottom and sides (can see the glass mat pattern and where it stops). 


Close up of the cracked gelcoat and rotten wood outer layer.


Gelcoat peeling away


Starboard side transom wood removed.  Resin between fiberglass and wood still in place as it was from factory.  Can see the missing coverage along the edges. 




All wood removed. 


Main transom wood is not continuous across the full beam.  Stops where the trim tab cables penetrate (built up area that can be seen when looking at the transom from inside the engine bay): 




Stringers are wet but still solid.  Letting them dry out. 


What a mess! 

TonyG13

Wow and Yikes! How many boat bucks is this going to cost you?!

Squatch68

Estimate was about 7k CAD but that was really a best guess based on what could be seen last fall.  

Planned on new camper top and enclosures this year but that will have to move to the 2023 list! 

YYZRC

That’s a huge project @Squatch68 - you have some big stones and deep pockets. At least the boat market is still strong. 

Squatch68

It's a long term boat for us so it doesn't hurt as much as it probably would otherwise.  Or maybe that's just what I'm telling myself... 

Aqua_Aura

That now has the opportunity to look really nice when you're done. There is so many things you can take care of now with all of that out of there. Have you looked at using Coosa board rather than plywood? 

Spyderweb

This whole story has me concerned.  Was this common practice on Rinker cruisers of the era?  To not have epoxy sealing wooden areas that are likely to be exposed to moisture?

 I too have that crack where the swim platform meets the transom.  It's roughly 4-5 feet long. The surveyor wasn't too concerned about it, but did say to keep an eye on it.  My marina felt the same.  Said cracks are fairly common, and even said "you should see some of the cracks we get in brand new boats".  Was suggested by the mechanic to seal it with mat and epoxy, to both seal it up and to better to keep an eye on it to gage whether it's getting worse.  It hasn't changes since I epoxied it, but there are 2 more, about 12" each starting above them.  Plan to patch them this month.


  

YYZRC

Last season I epoxied mine along the top edge same as you @Spyderweb. I also have the cleat drains that @aero3113 found on eBay. 

I’m not sure what to do with the garbord plug area as I don’t want to seal moisture in. 

Spyderweb

I knew about @aero3113 drains.  Not sure how to reach back there to install.

aero3113

Spyderweb said:

I knew about @aero3113 drains.  Not sure how to reach back there to install.

@Spyderweb it wasn’t easy but I was able to get them on with this grabber. I was even able to get a washer and nut back on that fell off at some point.

aero3113

Port side was easier than starboard

YYZRC

Spyderweb said:

I knew about @aero3113 drains.  Not sure how to reach back there to install.

You find a child who can contort. Or you do it yourself and end up like this:

Port side is way easier. 

aero3113

@YYZRC I’ve almost been stuck in that corner a couple of times 😂

YYZRC

The admiral was killing herself laughing. I wasn’t. The clamps on the exhaust were stabbing me in my back fat!

Aqua_Aura

I got myself twisted in the engine bay real good I was concerned I wasn't gonna get out. Can't remember what I was working on but I know I don't want to do it again 😂

aero3113

Aqua_Aura said:

I got myself twisted in the engine bay real good I was concerned I wasn't gonna get out. Can't remember what I was working on but I know I don't want to do it again 😂

Yea, not fun. That moment you realize you might not be getting out 😂

YYZRC

In my experience, it’s also the same moment you get an epic cramp. 

Squatch68

@Spyderweb I think you will be fine having sealed up the crack with resin and glass mat. Keeping water away from it altogether is the best bet. Those drains @aero and @YYZRC have look to be exactly what I will be purchasing as well! 

Just be sure to keep a close eye on it and if you notice the gelcoat lifting or bubbling anywhere on the transom that will be a sign to have it looked at. 

I'm not sure what the best route is for the garboard plug since as you said it's probably already damp and don't want to lock that in.  Maybe seal it up right before launching after the next off season.

I'm thinking about installing a small catch tank for the aux drains that go to the bilge like the AC condensate, cockpit fridge pan, swim platform cleats, etc., with its own small bilge pump. Just want to keep water away from those exposed stringers as much as possible. I've got a 3D printer so might print a few concepts and give them a try. 

Spyderweb

I do remember the posts on the cleat drains.  I guess I was thinking those were 2 bolts coming through, rather than hollow bolts to purposely let water through.  

Squatch68

@aero3113 do you remember if the cleat drains were 4-1/2"?  Your old ebay link doesn't work anymore. Thanks! 

aero3113

Squatch68 said:

@aero3113 do you remember if the cleat drains were 4-1/2"?  Your old ebay link doesn't work anymore. Thanks! 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/222865410293?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=5gF2g3hNQWe&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=jb9VSTJCQVS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

And this was the hose I used, slipped on nice and tight from what I remember.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/301894863506?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8QHuAKaNSka&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=jb9VSTJCQVS&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

YYZRC

@Squatch68 since you have a nice new steering pin and once you add the cleat drains, you could probably install a shower sump in the bilge and plumb everything into it. Would be so clean and dry!

Don’t forget to seal your transom fittings (fresh water regulator, swim platform light, transom shower) and then you should be bone dry! I did this last year and it made a huge difference. 

Spyderweb

@aero3113 is that cleat drain a flexible material?

aero3113

@Spyderweb , yes it is.

Squatch68

Thank you @aero3113!

@YYZRC thanks for pointing those transom fittings out, hadn't even crossed my mind! I will absolutely be sealing those up!  The shower bilge is exactly what I'm thinking. Should just put in a new one for the shower and use the old one in the bilge for the drains. Brilliant. 

rasbury

So, not to be to prying, will you share what this cost you?

GMSLITHO

I had that issue with a small 16 foot boat when it all went back together all the wood got 3 coats of total boat penetrating epoxy ,That stuff works great 

Squatch68

Will absolutely let you know what the final price is when it's all done. 

Lots of epoxy going on the new wood! 

YYZRC

I’m curious as to how much rainwater comes in via the cleat drains so I rigged up an empty gas can to catch the water. Will advise.