2008 280EC Rotten Transom
Squatch68
Member Posts: 62 ✭✭
Well folks, I was just finishing up the job replacing the swivel shaft seal using the JR Marine kit (which is fantastic btw) when I discovered something I hoped to never see. Was cleaning up the area where the steering arm goes through the transom assembly on the inside of the boat. Moved the wiring harness that runs across the top of the transom where it transitions to the bottom of the swim platform. Discovered the thin fibreglass layer was cracked along the entire top edge and the wood soaked and rotten. Chipped off some fibreglass lower down around the transom plate and it's soaked all the way down.
Through more investigation discovered that water has been coming in through retractable cleats on the corners of the swim platform, then running across the swim platform and then down into the bilge. At some point there must have been a defect or something in the fibreglass which allowed some water in and it's just continued to get worse with time.
Didn't notice it when I bought the boat this year since it was under the wiring harness. Man do I feel like an idiot.
Had my local shop take a look at it yesterday. They are going to attempt to repair early in the spring. Pull the engine, pull transom assembly, cut out the fibreglass on the inside and just hope its only the inner most piece of wood that's been affected.
Through more investigation discovered that water has been coming in through retractable cleats on the corners of the swim platform, then running across the swim platform and then down into the bilge. At some point there must have been a defect or something in the fibreglass which allowed some water in and it's just continued to get worse with time.
Didn't notice it when I bought the boat this year since it was under the wiring harness. Man do I feel like an idiot.
Had my local shop take a look at it yesterday. They are going to attempt to repair early in the spring. Pull the engine, pull transom assembly, cut out the fibreglass on the inside and just hope its only the inner most piece of wood that's been affected.
Comments
I had to remove the aft bed floor to access all this. I put in a fuel tank while it was out and easily accessible.
In other words, I'd try to get the shop to look at it over the winter while business is slow and not come spring rush. Will give you time to prepare for any unexpected costs. I did all the work myself and I'd estimate about 2500 to 3000 in materials including fuel tank.
While I doubt yours is bad I have seen the rot travel from leaky swim ladder all the way to the v berth.
The hope was they would be able to do it over the winter but unfortunately the boat is just slightly too large to fit into their heated shop. They don't have time to do it before the snow flies and need temperatures to stay above freezing overnight. Early spring is as good as its going to get I'm afraid.
It's a job I wouldn't mind tackling myself but there is no good way for me to get the 496 out myself.
https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/13167/jobs-to-consider-if-you-remove-your-engine-s
Keep the mind the infusion process in which they apply the resin 100× better than the dreaded run away as fast as you can boats from the 60s and 70s.
Wood is strong and saves weight.
Even pursuit has examples of some Friday boats. Happens in all brands, rinker is no exception. Im willing to bet rinker had less boo boo boats percentage wise than sea ray.
It now sits under a 12k car port.
If you have just a wet transom you may be able to remove all transom fittings and store in a heated storage. Wet doesn't mean rot but if caught soon enough may be able to be dried out.
Big duramax 500hp 6.6 twin turbo in a 21 ft runabout
My question is, who's gonna bank roll this new float for us?
No cool fuel to deal with.
Cons:
Parts harder to find.
Military RIBs paired the Cummins 12 v to the Konrad. I'd love to have a 12v 6bt, I just don't want that weight. The duramax is @750 lbs vs the 1100 lbs 12bt.
Sadly thanks to the epa shops are not wanting to send out the programing in order to marinize the duramax. I'd like to ditch the turbo on one, replace it with a Whipple charger. Nerf down the horse power to 250 to 275 so make both a reliable long lasting motor that also won't eat the bravo 2.
Wasn't this rated at one time to take regular sae 30 motor oil for the drive oil?
The boat is at the shop now but they won't be able to start it for a few months. The wood is absolutely rotten. Actually crumbling in my fingers. Not much left of the top portion of the outermost piece of wood. Really hope it limited to just that first sheet of plywood.