AC hose

Dream_Inn

So, I believe it figured out why I have some water in my mid bilge area. I have a little drip after the ac pump where it Ts off to 2 lines, one for each ac unit. 

So, while I'm in there I plan to replace the input line to the pump from the seacock.  Anyone know the size? Is it 1 in ID?  Here is a pic I took.

Liberty44140

3/4” ID.

My 342 and my current CY 390 both use the same 3/4” Id intake hose for the AC. Hardwall. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322511049971

aero3113

Liberty44140 said:

3/4” ID.

My 342 and my current CY 390 both use the same 3/4” Id intake hose for the AC. Hardwall. 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/322511049971

Same as the generator intake. @Dream_Inn check that also before you order. I had to replace mine (didn’t start leaking yet).

LaRea

@Dream_Inn you'd better check.  Before buying hose for my genny, I checked from photos and confirmed it's 3/4".  However, the hose from the intake to the strainer is 1", not 3/4".  That little quirk cost me an extra trip to West Marine.  

aero3113

@LaRea you’re correct on that!

Dream_Inn

Thanks guys.  Good move on the genny one too @aero3113 .  I actually now remember from last fall winterization that I did want to replace it as well.  I wanted to just buy now, but I'll wait until I move my boat back around to on the lift (I have it around the corner getting drive alignment/service done).  WM is like 2 miles down the road from marina, so no big deal (although a 1/3 of price online).

LaRea

The equivalent at WM is Shields 250.  Should be about $17/foot.  It's probably in 10-foot straight sections on the bottom shelf. It's not the Shields 135, which is coiled up in boxes.  

Dream_Inn

Thanks LaRea!  The 135 is what I was looking at.  WM has it for $8+.  If I'm buying more than a couple feet (which I may), I may then measure and just order it online.  It'll take an extra visit to boat and do the following weekend, but that's ok. 

LaRea

My genny intake hose has a tight 90-degree bend, so I went with the wire-reinforced 250 to make sure it won't kink under suction.  Maybe overkill, but I only needed 2 feet.

Grahamu

I thought all hoses connected to under water thruhulls are to be wire reinforced as per ABYC regs

Dream_Inn

So, my AC lines were 3/4 in and the genny was 1 inch.  Replaced both today. I also moved my AC pump down about 2 inches thinking it may help with priming on weekends I forget to close seacock before lifting.

Liberty44140

Dream, hard to tell from the pics but it looks like your new hose is not hardwall (wire reinforced). Intake hoses for the ac and genny (and main engines if you have inboard/v drive) need to be hardwall so that they will not collapse. Your old hose was hardwall. 

Dream_Inn

So, you are correct about the pic and the AC was hardwall.  My size was out of stock, so I went with 135 for the moment.  Interesting though is my generator was not originally hardwall, so I went with the same that was there.

Liberty44140

Makes sense, I’d go with new non hard wall for now over leaking hard wall for sure. Best price I’ve found on hard wall was the link I posted. Not sure if he does 1” too. I’d change them both out eventually though. 

Black_Diamond

Just my .02: those PVC connections are bad news waiting to happen. Really should use Marelon or bronze.  

LaRea

Dream_Inn said:

... I also moved my AC pump down about 2 inches thinking it may help with priming on weekends I forget to close seacock before lifting.

@Dream_Inn did it help with getting the pump to prime?

Yesterday, my AC pump would not prime after I cleaned the strainer.  I unbolted the pump and held it down lower than the strainer, and it primed immediately.  I reinstalled it in the original location, but I should have just remounted it lower.  

Dream_Inn

@LaRea I don't believe it helped.  I always close my seacock, so I couldn't tell you really much if it would've helped anyhow, but I had at least once (that I remember) & maybe twice that I forgot to close the seacock.  I had to prime it to get it to work.

Liberty44140

My boats, Rinker's and Cruisers, always re primed themselves during the run from the travel lift to the dock (which is a few miles on plane). Always have stored with seacocks open. 

Dream_Inn

Liberty44140 said:

My boats, Rinker's and Cruisers, always re primed themselves during the run from the travel lift to the dock (which is a few miles on plane). Always have stored with seacocks open. 

I completely agree, & so does mine.  But I keep my boat on a lift.  So, when I put it up after each weekend, I close the AC seacock.  This allows me to turn on the AC/heat when I get down to the boat without either having to go for a ride or loosen two screws around the pump for prime.  It is possible that it could self prime too, but I'd rather be cautious since I do it every weekend.  Not a huge deal if I forget as it is very easy access under an access door in the salon.

LaRea

A self-priming pump would be nice, but I won't lose sleep over it.  Next time I need to prime but can't get underway, I'll remount the pump lower and see if it helps.

earl1z19

Mine has a bypass valve  t'ed in so if you need to prime it you just open the valve for a second and you are good to go.

YYZRC

^^ smart!

Dream_Inn

earl1z19 said:

Mine has a bypass valve  t'ed in so if you need to prime it you just open the valve for a second and you are good to go.

@earl1z19 Is the valve located between the seacock and the pump?  I had thought about adding one there for winterization but just pull hose off of seacock & insert funnel into the hose.  Pretty easy, but maybe I could just add this bypass in and use it for two things.  Do you have a pic of it?  or know which you used?

earl1z19

Its on the output side of the pump on the hose headed to the A/C unit with a bronze T valve on it. I will get a picture later this week

rmrstlmo

I have a valve on the output side of the pump.  It does help when I need to prime the pump.  FYI - The bucket in the pic is for winterizing.

earl1z19

rmrstlmo said:

I have a valve on the output side of the pump.  It does help when I need to prime the pump.  FYI - The bucket in the pic is for winterizing.

Thats pretty much how mine is. The bucket is a smart idea

aero3113

When I winterize my AC unit, I just pump in through the through hull from the outside and watch the antifreeze come out the pickup. 

Dream_Inn

If I have prime issues, I usually just slightly loosen the screws around the pump & listen for the air to go out and after about 10 seconds water will start to gurgle.  Then just tighten back up.  I don't mind turning the valve each weekend.  It helps me to inspect the area and also keep the seacock loose.

As for winterizing, I just remove the hose off of my water tank and insert a funnel into it (could just put it directly into pink bottle).  Doing it this way allows me to slightly turn the plastic elbow on the water tank and tip the tank to drain the rest of the water out of the tank (I use the boat lift to tip the boat back) that the pump didn't get (which also means there is no water sitting around that plastic elbow in the winter to crack).  Then I lift the water tank an inch or two and put a towel under the tank for assurance that no water is near that plastic elbow.  I hate the thought of pink stuff in my water tank.  It is a pain enough to get it out of the lines, which I'll be doing this weekend.  Which, my son gave me a brilliant idea to use the air compressor, as I do with winterizing, to get the pink all out of the lines before I pump water thru them.  That will at least help!

Liberty44140

really good idea loosening those screws to burp it. When I had the same pump I'd just yank the output line if I had to prime. 

rasbury

Thank the lord I don't deal with this stuff!

SimcoeRinker400

Hi @Dream_Inn


I got rid of the white splitter thing and did something that looked a little better and safer looking   Also my boat needed a new pump.  For priming I just take the boat for a spin pushes water through the system.  I will see if I have a picture of my setup.