Cockpit fridge

I hope someone can suggests where to start. My OEM cockpit fridge/freezer runs great on AC but yesterday on the lake, on DC,  it was defrosting.  The little green LED was on, knob turned to max but obviously not keeping things cool,  back at the dock on AC, everything is fine again.  All breakers were good.  Any suggestion?
Thanks 

Comments

  • GrahamuGrahamu Member Posts: 862 ✭✭✭
    Probably a bad 12 VDC connection. Check the main ground block for loose or corroded terminals. You may have to pull the fridge to check the positive connections.
  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 4,896 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited July 2022
    Easiest first check is at the DC panel. I had a loose spade connector at the breaker that was causing problems. Didn’t find it until after I had already ran a new line all the way from the panel to the fridge. 

    Also, if it’s a Dometic/Waeco they are known to experience an under voltage fault as they age. Check the thermostat area for a red light that blinks twice. I ended up adding a module to increase the voltage going to the fridge from 12 to 14 in order to fool the aging electronics. 

    Post edited by YYZRC on
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,318 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Also, there are fuses on the back of the Unit. 
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,777 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Also, there are fuses on the back of the Unit. 
    Really? I just had mine out and didn’t notice them. Mine isn’t getting cold on both AC and DC. I’m going to pull it out again next week and look for them and also try a different plug. I’ll also check the connections behind the panel.
    2008 330EC
  • Liberty44140Liberty44140 Member Posts: 4,318 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Mine did on the 342, had two automotive style prong fuses. I accidentally crossed battery cables on the house once and blew them. Thought I fried the fridge but it was just blown fuses, replaced and all good…
    07' Cruisers 390 (Previous Rinker's: 06' 342EC & 01' 310FV)

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,218 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I was thinking the fridge runs on 12v all the time and the panel on the back is an a/c d/c converter? Seems like I had to replace the converter/panel on the back.
  • SpyderwebSpyderweb Member Posts: 879 ✭✭✭
    Had exact same problem, great on AC at dock, but not good on DC out on water.  Despite making noises like it was running, temperature in fridge gradually rose all day.  Searched for answers for a year.  Finally, one day when I had it pulled out of the cabinet, I noticed 2 crimped wires, connecting the + and - from the main feed to the fridge DC.  Figured I had nothing to lose, so I cut the old crimps out and re-crimped.  Been working great ever since.


  • Cableguy GregCableguy Greg Member Posts: 5,011 ✭✭✭✭✭
    When I remove shore power from mine, I have to turn the temperature knob to off then back on for it to run on DC properly. 
    2008 280 Express Cruiser, 6.2MPI, B3, Pittsburgh, PA "Blue Ayes"
    Go Steelers!!!
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