Rinker 310 / 320 Random Topics

TonyG13

Moved some 310 / 320 questions from "What Did You Do On Your Boat Today" to this new thread.

TonyG13

@oscar1 asked: If you don't mind posting some pics where the screw are locate to remove the seating upholstery. thx

The forward port upholstery seatback next to the cabin door is two pieces: A small top piece, and a larger bottom piece...



The top piece is only held on by two "pressure" hooks. You press down on the top and then pull off. No Velcro or screws.

The bottom has one screw at the bottom (red circle) and two hooks at the top. No Velcro. Remove the screw, then press down at the top to release.



Here's what the backs look like...

TonyG13

Here is the small piece next to the aft cockpit door (starboard side). Remove screw at bottom and pull up (hard) to break the Velcro bond. It is strong Velcro...




I'll post more pics as I remove more pieces.

YYZRC

Love this thread.

rasbury

I have all of mine out....it's so much easier to clean everything not worrying about messing up seats...especially new ones...

oscar1

MAN, I really appreciate the complete info about the seat removal, I thank you.

TonyG13

Upholstery removal continued:

This little corner piece by the transom door is held in place with two blind bolts. What were the boat designers thinking???!!!

1. Open bench seat.
2. Remove four screws holding small panel inside storage area.
3. Using a 7/16" deep socket reach in and up -- while contorting in unusual positions and wishing you had two hands small enough to fit in the darn hole to feel - and unscrew the bolts. Good news: the area has a "floor" so if you drop anything, you shouldn't lose it.


View from underneath/inside:

Topside view after removal:

YYZRC

Great little bonus storage space there!

davidbrooks

That is how the seat backs on the aft seats on the 342 are held on.  I think i am still pulling out fiberglass from my knuckles getting those nuts on and off.

LaRea

Similar on the 370 helm seat.  Blind bolts lead to colorful language.  

TonyG13

Due to some health issues I don't think I'll be able to buff/wax the boat this spring myself so I asked for a quote from my yard.

This is the pricing for my 310. Are these reasonable prices?

Buff & Wax - Hull side only: $1,100.00

Buff & Wax - Hull side, Top Side, and Cockpit Area: $1,500.00

YYZRC

I paid $1000 CAD two years ago for my 350 hullsides (below gunwale) to be waxed.  My boat is not bottom painted so they did not have to tape off the waterline.

A question I would ask is will they be taping over your hull stripe(s) - they did not tape over my hull stripe nor my registration decals and I was left with wax build-up along the edges of the decals.  If I was to have it done again, I would request that all decals be taped.

TonyG13

Nice thing about the later model 310/320 - no stripes or decals. Though I guess I do need to think about the "chrome" lettering and boat graphic. Thanks.

LaRea

Just make sure you and the yard agree on the scope of work.  Normally, a quote would say "topsides" which is defined as everything from the waterline up to the deck.  Their quote says "hull side" and "top side" so I'm not sure what they mean.  

If they want $1500 to detail the topsides, transom, cockpit and hardtop, I'd say that's typical.  Are they cleaning the non-skid too?

TonyG13

LaRea said:

Just make sure you and the yard agree on the scope of work.  Normally, a quote would say "topsides" which is defined as everything from the waterline up to the deck.  Their quote says "hull side" and "top side" so I'm not sure what they mean.  

If they want $1500 to detail the topsides, transom, cockpit and hardtop, I'd say that's typical.  Are they cleaning the non-skid too?

Around here I believe "Hull side" means everything above the waterline but below the rub rail; "Top Side" is everything above the rub rail except for the Cockpit.

So "Hull side, Top Side, and Cockpit Area" would be the whole boat above the waterline.

As for non-skid, I'm not sure, so I'll ask.

Ian

Seems decent price.

rasbury

So how much actual time do they spend on your hull for 1500? Would vary if you have a newer boat vs an older oxidized hull?

Rich_

Hull I don't mind waxing since it is nice wide open areas. Topsides is a whole other spectrum with cleats, windows, and rails to go around. My favorite wax to use is Collinite for ease of use and lasting shine

TonyG13

I found a great deal on a refurbished EPIRB (2028 expiration) with a recessed holder. Looking around I think this would be my best mounting location. I was going to remove the fridge to look to see the backside, but it's caulked in and with Murphy's Law I didn't want to break anything that isn't broke now. So do you think this would be an OK area to cut? The dark line would be the cut line. The lighter line is the frame boundary. And the holder is 3-1/2" deep. It looks like it should be fine, just checking.

Dream_Inn

As long as you have 3 1/2" from that to the inner part of that fridge frame you should be fine.  I've seen the fridge many times and it basically takes up that entire width where it slides in.  Fridge is pretty easy to move, which I know I would, but it depends on what you are cutting with.  I wouldn't want the mess to land on the fridge.  I guess once the hole is there you can clean it up thru the hole.

Liberty44140

TonyG13 said:

Due to some health issues I don't think I'll be able to buff/wax the boat this spring myself so I asked for a quote from my yard.

This is the pricing for my 310. Are these reasonable prices?

Buff & Wax - Hull side only: $1,100.00

Buff & Wax - Hull side, Top Side, and Cockpit Area: $1,500.00

Sounds reasonable. I pay $1800 for my topsides, above rub rail, and hard top (essentially everything smooth above the waterline except the cockpit). It is a 3 step process (Clean, Compound, wax) and the boat looks incredible when they are done. Hate paying for this, but it really looks good and lasts. 

TonyG13

Could not find a good location to mount my fire extinguisher in the helm/cockpit area and finally came up with this. It's a re-purposed EPIRB holder that I added a USCG approved mount. Created a cardboard template and then carefully cut out the hole with an oscillating saw. Additional advantage is I also now have some access to the door bottom track if it needs repair/attention.

TonyG13

Anyone know how to remove this VHF? According to the manual it's slid in from the front, then two clamps are attached from the rear to tighten and hold it in place. No way to get to the rear. I think it's an OEM install and I think they put it in with all the other electronics on the factory floor -- then lifted the helm in place as a unit. So no access from the back now. I did take out the cabinet above the head sink and I reached my camera around and took a pic -- and can see the back of the VHF (and the mount) -- but no way to actually reach it.

TonyG13

Took me two years to finally getting around to this. Been running "naked" the last two seasons after I pulled off all the rotten OEM insulation in the engine room.

Installed a new 1" Soundown Sound-Stop Foam Panel with 1lb Barrier Layer. Hopefully it will help with sound, not as concerned about heat. Supposed to provide a 19 decibel sound reduction.

YYZRC

Awesome!

oscar1

New windlass installation Lewmar Pro-fish 1000 and some pics.

YYZRC

Clean install @oscar1 !

TonyG13

Nice job!

knucklebuster

This year new carpet and cockpit cover sewn by a local boat upholsterer I've used for years. Also new plasdeck on the swim platform and decided to relocated my emblems up higher. Didn't like them being so low and getting beat up down there. Props cleaned up by prop MD and new seacore decals on the outdrives.l  

LaRea

Beautiful!  That decking looks sharp, and I like those countertops in the cockpit.  

TonyG13

@knucklebuster - Nice job!

Where'd you get the Seacore decals? Only ones I can find are on eBay from Canada for about $26USD.

Also like the new location for the emblems. Agree they get beat up down low.