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    knucklebusterknucklebuster Member Posts: 19 ✭✭
    Yep. Auto graphics Ltd off eBay. They are about the best reproduction decals out there. Not OEM but good enough to last a couple of seasons.
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    mattiemattie Member Posts: 1,255 ✭✭✭✭
    TonyG13 said:
    Could not find a good location to mount my fire extinguisher in the helm/cockpit area and finally came up with this. It's a re-purposed EPIRB holder that I added a USCG approved mount. Created a cardboard template and then carefully cut out the hole with an oscillating saw. Additional advantage is I also now have some access to the door bottom track if it needs repair/attention.


    @to@TonyG13
    That’s friggin brilliant. I’m gonna see if that will work on our boat.
    Is that holder from Boat Outfitters?

    I have 2 extinguishers in a Shurhold bucket sitting in the footwell to cabin. Not the best spot. 
    246BR, 276BR, H310BR current
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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    I initially bought this Nuova Rade 196465 extinguisher storage case - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0183YQ54Y - but it was too big for that spot.

    So I wound up repurposing an old ARC EPIRB bracket that I had laying around. I did a bit of "surgery" to the back and installed a bracket on the inside.

    eBay has one for $45 -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/143171733165

    It worked out perfect for me. Maybe you could find a similar case that'll fit. I was super easy to install - and I also can get access behind for the door track if needed as an added bonus.

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    knucklebusterknucklebuster Member Posts: 19 ✭✭
    @TonyG13- your giving me all kinds of ideas to accomplish! My engine hatch insulation is gone. Have you noticed any noise  reduction at all? I will definitely be getting the longer linear hatch actuator. Those are pretty slick!
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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    edited May 2023
    @knucklebuster - Sound is so subjective. I wish I would have somehow recorded the decibel levels before and after to have a more objective result. On launch day my crew thought there was a noticeable difference. Me, I'm not so sure - or maybe I'm just picky and thought it should be even quieter. Since I've only been out once so far, I'll have to give it a few trips under different RPM and see. Keep you posted.

    As for the actuator - definitely one of the best mods I've done. Highly recommend it!  
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    aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 8,815 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Nice that it didn’t take you that long to figure out!
    2008 330EC
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    johnny44johnny44 Confirm Email, Member Posts: 93 ✭✭
    TonyG13 said:
    Based on reviews and recommendations from @Aqua_Aura, @raybo3, and others, I just did one of the easiest and fairly inexpensive upgrades possible.

    I swapped out my OEM engine hatch linear actuator for a new one from Progressive Automations. For the 310 EC / 320 EX I used the PA-04-18-400. Less than $200 all in from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00THPKUTA

    Old OEM actuator was 24" hole-to-hole with a 12" stroke. I did some measuring and the new actuator with an 18" stroke and a hole-to-hole measurement of 26" -- fit exactly into my existing setup.

    I have now gained almost of 9" of clearance when the hatch is fully open. Love it!

    The existing mounts and pins fit perfectly. Only thing I had to do was swap out the Jr. Molex connector to match the existing larger connector. 

    Old hatch clearance...


    New hatch clearance...


    Actuator:


    One more view without tape measure:


    I replaced my old actuator with this one a couple of months ago. It was definitely an easy swap out of the old actuator. One of the simpler projects I've done.

    BUT - the actuator ended up failing. Not sure what rating the actuator is supposed to be for a 350 EC. This actuator is for 400 pounds. This may be too light for my hatch. Will look for one that is at least double that. Anyone have any thoughts on this?
    2008 350 EC -- Greenwich Bay, Rhode Island
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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    Interesting. Hopefully under warranty. Did you have any weird noises before failure? And how did it fail? In down or up position or stripped? Just curious so I know what to look out for with mine.
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    johnny44johnny44 Confirm Email, Member Posts: 93 ✭✭
    It was 2 days past the point of sending it back to Amazon...but I called them and they agreed to take it back so I will get a refund. The issue was that it was operating intermittently. No noises at all. I had the yard test it because I thought maybe it was electrical, but it was the motor that failed. Could be that it was just a bad one. 
    2008 350 EC -- Greenwich Bay, Rhode Island
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    raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,460 admin
    I added on of those to my 342, works great with no issues.
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    Took the cockpit fridge out to do some wire tracing and noticed that the drains for the blender and the storage bin just drain down on top of the refrigerator. Also noted the coils have some surface rust. Who's bright idea at Rinker was this?! Just added another winter job (ugh!) of adding some tubing so these drain directly to the bilge and not on top of an expensive piece of equipment!


     
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 743 ✭✭✭
    Mine have a hose down to the refrigerator drain pan and another hose from the refrigerator drain pan to the starboard side of the bilge by the factory transducer. 
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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    Interesting. My boat must have been built on a Friday.  :D
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 743 ✭✭✭
    TonyG13 said:
    Interesting. My boat must have been built on a Friday.  :D
    HAAAAA
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 743 ✭✭✭
    Tony, 
    Here is the pic of my fire extinguishers location. Thx
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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    @oscar1 - Something to think about. Thanks. 
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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    Hooked up some drainage tubes from the cockpit blender and storage bin so they drain onto the refrigerator pan and then into the bilge. For some strange reason no tubing was there and they just drained right on top of the refrigerator. Boat must of been built on a Friday. Next job is to clean up and labels the wiring mess.








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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 743 ✭✭✭
    It look great
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    JimGuy341JimGuy341 Member Posts: 101 ✭✭
    TonyG13 said:
    Had some bad storms come through last night, so went to check on boat this morning.

    Found about 5 gallons of water in the portside slide-out bench...


    Started looking for potential sources by removing the bench and poking around...

    Looking up into the cavity immediately below the arch and I could feel that the arch bolts were wet and dripping...

    But the topside of the bolts (viewed through the arch plate) were bone dry...

    So figured that the water was somehow going under the base of the arch and then through the bolt holes. Started looking closely at the arch caulk joint and found a hole at the most forward part of the arch base...

    Cleaned it up to get a better view...

    To test my theory got a cup of water and poured it around the hole, it immediately started flowing down into the bench area. So I cleaned it all up, blew out the hole with some compressed air, and then put a new bead of caulk around the hole arch base...

    Once it sets up, I'll retest, but I think I eliminated this leak source. Looks like water was running down off the canvas and then poured right into where the hole was.

    It's just amazing how much water can travel through such a small hole.

    I've been searching for the source of a small leak that makes it's way along the inside of the hull and collects in a small cavity above my midberth shower sump.  I've checked the arch (and the topside of the bolts are dry like yours).  I'll be looking at the arch base in the spring.
    2008 350 EC
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    MH342MH342 Member Posts: 69 ✭✭
    JimGuy341 said:
    TonyG13 said:
    Had some bad storms come through last night, so went to check on boat this morning.

    Found about 5 gallons of water in the portside slide-out bench...


    Started looking for potential sources by removing the bench and poking around...

    Looking up into the cavity immediately below the arch and I could feel that the arch bolts were wet and dripping...

    But the topside of the bolts (viewed through the arch plate) were bone dry...

    So figured that the water was somehow going under the base of the arch and then through the bolt holes. Started looking closely at the arch caulk joint and found a hole at the most forward part of the arch base...

    Cleaned it up to get a better view...

    To test my theory got a cup of water and poured it around the hole, it immediately started flowing down into the bench area. So I cleaned it all up, blew out the hole with some compressed air, and then put a new bead of caulk around the hole arch base...

    Once it sets up, I'll retest, but I think I eliminated this leak source. Looks like water was running down off the canvas and then poured right into where the hole was.

    It's just amazing how much water can travel through such a small hole.

    I've been searching for the source of a small leak that makes its way along the inside of the hull and collects in a small cavity above my midberth shower sump.  I've checked the arch (and the topside of the bolts are dry like yours).  I'll be looking at the arch base in the spring.
    Must have been the same guy who was caulking the 342 Arches on Friday afternoons!
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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    edited February 22
    I hope I never meet the employee at Rinker that decided to place the aft bilge pump in such a position that it cannot be removed or serviced without removing major wiring harnesses and/or an engine! GRRRRH!

    Here is mine in the last generation 310/320 EC / Express Cruiser...


    Between two stringers 9" apart and 15" deep. Then on top of that are multiple wiring harnesses and two engines. IMHO - and I've tried - there is no way to get to that pump for any type of service. @oscar1 - Is that where yours is located?

    So it got me to thinking about somehow adding another pump that can be "dipped" into and attached to the bilge but can be removed easier for service if necessary. This is what I came up with...


    It's a Whale SuperSub Automatic mounted on a piece of aluminum that I can lower into the bilge and attach to one of the stringers - and easily remove for maintenance.

    I still have some tweaking to do, but here it is in place for a test fit. Pretty much same depth as the OEM, but about two feet in front of it.


    Once done I'll have peace of mind if/when the 10 year old OEM fails, this will be in place and ready to go.

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,564 mod
    What a creative solution!  Well done.
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 743 ✭✭✭
    tony,
    yes mine has the same bilge pump location, but i was able to install a 2000 gallon rules pump with an ultra safety senior flow switch plus a new SHIELDS RUBBER series 148 vinyl bilge pump hose, but it was a paint to do the replacement of the bilge pump and the hose.  I will post a pic tomorrow.... Nice set up for easy fix
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 743 ✭✭✭
    Tony, 
    Here are the pics of one of my bilge pump set up.

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    TonyG13TonyG13 Member Posts: 1,290 ✭✭✭✭
    @oscar1 - How are earth did you get down in there to do all that???!!!
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    oscar1oscar1 Member Posts: 743 ✭✭✭
    Tony, 
    HAAAAAA, you made me laugh, but It was real real painful to get it done plus several Advil for several days after it was done.
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