Auto bilge circuit

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  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    The wiring diagram I posted is from the 250.  I assume it's the same as the 270 but maybe not.  Assuming it is, here are the two wires that should have constant +12v

    Aft Bilge (Brown with Orange Stripe)


    Forward Bilge (Orange with Brown Stripe)

    I assume you have either a bum breaker or a bad spade connector at the aft bilge breaker.  I would disconnect and swap the spade connectors at the breaker between the forward and aft bilge pumps to rule out that the breaker is the problem.
    Post edited by YYZRC on
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    OK @YYZRC, that is making sense..those wires coming from the battery one and two breakers..so I want to check that for power...I see what is the hot side for the probe. Where is the negative side for that probe to check for volts? One I know I have power I can swap the spades...I'm always afraid I'm going to cross something that should not and blow something else out...interesting,  so if I am checking for voltage, can I use say the ground post on the back of the battery switch to probe for hot wires? If I check the back of the breaker post/spades, should there be constant power or only when the float switch turns on??
    Post edited by rasbury on
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  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Get negative from the nearest ground bus block. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The float switch has nothing to do with this. There should be +12v on both sides of both diodes if you have the battery switches turned on and the batteries are charged. 

    There should also be +12v at the male end of both spade connectors when you disconnect the brown/orange wires. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    @YYZRC you have to talk to me like a 4 year old. When I check for power at the diode, am I checking from the front to back of each diode or, the front of one diode to the front of the other? Hooe I'm not pulling you away from work? I'm also not sure what a ground block is...I have a block along the stern, I assume that is it but my wires are not long enough...

    Looking at the panel our, there is nothing negative there is there? I'm learning I understand it less but will figure out the ground bus bar...
    Post edited by rasbury on
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    YYZRC said:
    The wiring diagram I posted is from the 250.  I assume it's the same as the 270 but maybe not.  Assuming it is, here are the two wires that should have constant +12v

    Aft Bilge (Brown with Orange Stripe)


    Forward Bilge (Orange with Brown Stripe)

    I assume you have either a bum breaker or a bad spade connector at the aft bilge breaker.  I would disconnect and swap the spade connectors at the breaker between the forward and aft bilge pumps to rule out that the breaker is the problem.
    I switched the spades and the pump dies not come on. 
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    I checked the front wire of each diode and back using the battery for ground and have power.

    I checked the base of each post with the battery as ground for both of the bilge breakers. All 4 posts with the wires connected have 13V.

    I did pull off spades on each and checked continuity on each breaker and they were fine....
    Post edited by rasbury on
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  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    You need to switch the spades and then test for power at the aft bilge pump wiring. The pump won’t come on unless you have the float up and/or the switch turned on. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Hmmm...I think I did...sorta...I don't have the float installed. I have the wires twisted together and the pump is connected and its not coming on..I did not meter it and I will redo and verify. We have storms coming in so it might be a minute before I can get back at it!
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  • Rich_Rich_ Member Posts: 171 ✭✭✭
    With your meter on ohms check the float switch.
    To make sure the meter is working set it to ohms and touch the two leads together. Now get to the float switch, there should be two wires coming out of it. Put one lead on each wire, when you lift the float switch the meter should have the same reading as it did when you just touched the probes together.
    Rinker sold but still have other boats        Eastern LI, NY
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @Rich_ I don't have the float on there- I have the wires twisted together,  pump is not going on...new pump that runs manual...
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  • LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,754 mod
    Try jumping/bypassing the diode. 

    If the diode failed, you'd read good voltage on both ends of the diode, but it wouldn't pass enough current to run the pump.  When my engine hatch actuator stopped working, it was a failed diode.   
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    @YYZRC I'm reading back through this and I don't see a post I thought I posted...

    I checked the diodes on both sides using the battery for ground and they are hot. I checked each post of the breaker and they are hot. I pulled the spades off and checked continuity on both of them and that passed.

    You made a comment earlier I did not rad right about the front panel and switch- I'm going to pull those and see if something came lise at the helm. So if I'm seeing a little clearer, the power still comes from the helm...and from the same hot wire that runs the pump through the manual switch? The float provides a jumper for the switch at the helm to send the power through? I will pull those panels and see- but power does not come directly from the wire coming off the breaker into the harness (and its a different color than any of the other wires) if I'm starting to grasp it!

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  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    You said you have breakers at the helm for the bilge pumps but if that is true, the diagram for the 250 is not correct for your 270. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Yes, front and back breakers..assuming they are marked correctly @YYZRC. You had thought the frontcwere for the helm switch and the rear for the float switches...still thinking that? I'm going to pull the other panels and see if thing is disconnected....everything is original as far as I know...we have storms coming thru this afternoon so hope to beat them...

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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    Ok @YYZRC, I'm a certified dumb a$$. There are no breakers in the front for the bilge...not sure what I was looking at...the wiring is pretty tidy under the panel. The back side are not spades but hard wired to the switches. Only wire I see behind the panels is a spades connector and a tag on it that says sea key...no idea and don't see anywhere to connect it.

    So on the aft breaker then, it is getting power. I will go back to your drawing..the wire that comes off that breaker and into the harness is a different color that the wires at the pump or float...I did not test it for power and guess I will have to pull that harness apart and see where it goes....
    Post edited by raybo3 on
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    And I think I just found it...there is a short 4 wire harness that runs from the pump up the stringer...and the it plugs into the rest of the system. I did not see this before.when I pulled it apart, white corrosion fell out of it..not sure if you can see from these pictures...a pole in the connector is pulled out of the side it should be and stuck in the other side...and it's that gray wire that goes to the float. SO a B! I had swapped the spades on the back of the breakers...and the forward float worked to run that pump so as you said @YYZRC the problem has to be after the breaker and it was. I guess I can just eliminate the connector and hard wire it? Two wires go to one wire, is that a special connector?

    Post edited by rasbury on
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  • aero3113aero3113 Member Posts: 9,044 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    Good find!
    No pic attached.
    2008 330EC
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  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Sounds like you found the problem and learned a bit in the process. Not a bad outcome. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    Yes @YYZRC, I'm good at fixing stuff that's I can see is broken...I think I have several talents- electrical is not one of them. I did re post the pic above as it did not stick when I did it before...should I try and find that connector or just wire it? I have these really nice butt connectors that you use a heat gun and activate solder- but I don't think I can get two wires in one side...
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  • YYZRCYYZRC Member Posts: 5,113 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I would do that. Just use a yellow one if blue isn’t big enough. 
    2008 350 EC on Georgian Bay
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited February 2023
    I win! It, being a new pump, a new float,  installed and working. To get the screws in, I had to tape them to the end of my drill as on the 270 with the gunny, I can only get one arm down there....I love that generator when I want it but doing the engine impeller change would be so much easier..and that's about due...
    Post edited by rasbury on
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  • Rich_Rich_ Member Posts: 171 ✭✭✭
    Electrical is not terribly complicated once you find the nasty corrosion spot. Congratulations 
    Rinker sold but still have other boats        Eastern LI, NY
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  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,406 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Thanks  @Rich_, and thanks for all the help. Nice to learn but it's a little painfull...
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