342 Solar

alex8q4

Hi all,

I’m killing time by planning the install of my new solar panels on my 342.  

This project will require me to run a couple of cables through the arch, down the port side, and into the engine bay.   

Can anyone with a similar boat tell me the approximate / ball park length of cable I’ll need to get from the centre of the arch to the forward wall in the engine bay?  

YYZRC

On a 350, 20' of cable would get you from the centre of the arch to the bulkhead/firewall with some wire to spare. The 342 and 350 should be dimensionally very similar.

Word of caution - the 350 does not have an cut-out at the base of the arch on the port side for wiring to pass through. Only the starboard side had a cut-out and all the OEM wiring ran through the starboard side. As a result, I went with 30' of cable to go down the starboard leg of the arch and across the firewall to the port side. Got the cable on Amazon for about $60 including the MC4 connectors.

Also remember to ensure that the solar controller is ignition protected. The Victron one I have is not so I located it in the cabinet below the cockpit sink.

alex8q4

Thanks for the great intel!

It will be a pain if I can’t get through the port side.  The last cable I pulled through the starboard side was difficult… that pass-through is pretty full. 

As for the charge controller, I have yet to look into the rating, but mine is also a Victron.  If need be I can mount it under to port side rap-around seat (next to the big orange) or starboard sink.

My isolator is on the port side, and batteries on the starboard.  So long as I can get the cable down from the arch I’ll have a pretty short run out from the controller.

Cheers

LaRea

> that pass-through is pretty full. 

Truth.  After I ran a new radar and good speaker cables, my starboard side has no more room for anything with big connectors.  I wonder if the arch base on the port side has openings.  You could easily drill the fiberglass if that's the only obstruction.  

YYZRC

LaRea said:

I wonder if the arch base on the port side has openings.  You could easily drill the fiberglass if that's the only obstruction.  

My port side does have holes cast in the aluminum. 

alex8q4

Confirmed today that there is no hole to pass wires through the bottom of the arch on the port side.  Access is pretty good so drilling a hole should be simple.  

Cableguy Greg

alex8q4 said:

Confirmed today that there is no hole to pass wires through the bottom of the arch on the port side.  Access is pretty good so drilling a hole should be simple.  

There might be an aluminum backer plate embedded in the fiberglass where the arch attaches to the hull. 

alex8q4

That makes sense, thanks for the heads up.

MH342

Plus the arch is … well … aluminum 😁.  Please let us know where you drill the hole and how it goes. I’m in the same situation that my starboard side is full and I’ve been avoiding some new accessories for this very reason. If your project goes well I may consider the same approach. 

Another observation … you have the same water stains coming from the arch that I do.  For a long time I couldn’t figure out how water was getting into the port storage area under the bench. Finally I realized it’s arch water coming down through the mounting holes. If you have the same mystery water under the bench, that is the source. I’ve been chasing the actual point of origin for a little while with some minor incremental gains sealing the canvas track, mounts on top of the arch, etc.  But I think the real source is from the windshield track.  I don’t think the lower track is sealed where it meets the front of the arch.  If anyone else has similar issues or recommended solutions, I’d love to hear about it in a new thread. 

alex8q4

I will let you know how I make out drilling the access hole.   

As for the leaks… yep there’s a story there too… lol.  I’ll start a thread in a bit.

Edit:  found this thread,  check it out.  https://rinkerboats.vanillacommunities.com/discussion/8505/fixed-not-fixed-fixed-leak-where-windshield-frame-attaches-to-hardtop-arch

MH342

Alex, thanks for the link!  I thought I had read every post on this forum, but didn’t remember this one. LaRea’s post fit my theory perfectly. Now I just have to decide if/when I want to start pulling out windows 😬 … wish there was a simpler fix but short cuts and boats don’t usually mix. 

@LaRea - great work and thanks for taking the time on the original post … the pictures are super helpful. 

LaRea

Over the years, I've learned to never ignore a leak anywhere on a boat.  

alex8q4

LaRea said:

Over the years, I've learned to never ignore a leak anywhere on a boat.  

Have ya really learned anything, or are you just like the rest of us?  I know how this works; sitting down in your favourite seat on the boat, having a morning coffee or perhaps a morning drink.  As you sigh and take a deep breathe of fresh summer air you look around in admiration of the truly beautiful boat you are sitting on.  You think to yourself,  this is great, this  can’t be beat,  I’m just going to sit here and not make a sound… oh look someone left a finger print on that window, oh well I’ll get it later.  Hey wait a minute what if the water is going under the window.  1 minute later the tools are out the the window is half removed.

The moral of the story is that we didn’t learn to not ignore the leak, but that we can’t ignore the leak!

LaRea

Haha, so very true!  I should restate.  Over the years, I've lost my ability to ignore leaks, because I didn't practice that skill.  

alex8q4

Was able to drill my holes under the port side arch mount today.  No aluminum in the area I drilled, just thick glass. 

Easy Peasy! 

alex8q4

After a busy pre-boating session we are finally in the water, and I was able to install our new solar panels and charger.  

I purchased a kit with 3-100 watt sunpower semi-flexible panels, 2-25ft cables and a Victron charge controller.  All I had to add were magnets to hold the panels in place, and a power disconnect to cut power from the panels.  

The install was pretty simple.  I was successful routing the cables down the port side of the arch into the bilge.  I wired the positive lead from the charger into the existing battery isolator, and hooked the negative onto the negative lead on the neighbouring 120v charger.  Works like a charm!

Hopefully, one day someone looking to do the same will find this helpful.

Dream_Inn

@alex8q4 nice setup! If you don't mind me asking, what was the price of each of the components?  Looks like a nice clean install.

YYZRC

Looks great. Looks like you went with the MSI kit? I got my stuff from Chris as well. 

https://marinesolar.com/sunpower-semi-flex-kits

A word of caution. The solar controller is not rated as ignition protected. You might want to relocate it outside of the bilge. 

alex8q4

Thanks Dream_Inn.   The kit from MSI was around $900 CAD after I upgraded the capacity of the charge controller, under $100 for the 36 magnets off Amazon and about $60 for the disconnect switch.   

Hi YYZRC, thanks for the heads up.  Yes, I am aware that Victron has not certified their charge controller as Ignition Protected. I should have added a disclaimer to my post to urge people to research their install location prior to proceeding.  Also, yes, I got my setup from MSI at the Toronto Boat Show this winter.  Chris was great to deal with!  

YYZRC

Keep us in the loop on what wattage you pull out of the panels! I had the sunpower panels on my old boat. Good stuff. 

Liberty44140

I was surprised to see that they are not ignition protected so I looked in to it. From what I read online they are potted so while not certified as protected, being potted they should be completely protected, right?

YYZRC

@Liberty44140 I read the same about the controllers being fully potted after @oscar1 pointed out that the controllers are not ignition protected. I had my solar controller mounted in the bilge for two seasons without issue. That said, the Bluetooth connection sucks when it’s mounted in the bilge and that was a big incentive for me to move it. 

Victron offers a ton of products catering to the RV/marine market including many that are ignition protected. There must be a good reason why the solar controllers are not rated as such.

Rich_

Costs money to get certified.
That being said, insurance companies would not approve of a non ignition protected device in a confined space with gasoline.

Liberty44140

Very interesting, thanks.