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Stereo wired to ignition key - hour meters run when stereo is on

LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,552 mod
To run the stereo in my 2007 370, I have to turn the port ignition key to the first click (accessory position).  Unfortunately, I just realized that the engine hour meter is running in this position.  This a problem because it adds bogus hours to the engine hour meter every time I listen to the stereo.  Anybody else have this problem?

Something must be mis-wired.  The hour meter should only be able to work while the engine is actually running.  How can I fix it?

I took off the dash panel to look for any obvious labels in the wiring harness, but saw nothing of immediate value.
--Chris

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,552 mod
    That's what I thought.  So I guess the tachs are not hooked up correctly. 

    Also, my ignition switches don't have left/right.  The first click CW is accessory, second click is ignition, third click is starter.  (The labels on the helm panel are like Alswagg says:  CCW=acc, CW=ignition.)
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,552 mod
    Thanks Al.  Yes, it is digital throttle.  I definitely want to move the stereo to a dedicated circuit.  How is the stereo connected to the ignition switch?  Is there a separate 12V wire from the helm to the stereo head?
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    rmrstlmormrstlmo Member Posts: 222 ✭✭✭
    Mine is the same way. I have about 20 more hours on the port engine.

    Ray

    2006 390

    Previous 2000 340

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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,559 mod
    I had the same issue and didn't notice when I first got the boat.  What i found out, is there is a little box on the hour meter, when it flashes, that is when it is counting.  For me, with key in the first CW position (I have DDT as well) if it is flashing, I give the hour meter a little tap and then it stops.  Yes, just like the tach tap!  Give it a try.  I agree it should be on the accy switch, but I haven't had any hours added since I can now look for this little trick.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,552 mod
    Winner winner chicken dinner!

    As suggested by Dream_Inn, I tapped on the hour meter a few times.  Lo and behold, the hourglass stopped flashing, and the meter stopped accumulating time.  Crazy but true!

    Thanks Dream_Inn.
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    TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It'd be interesting to know how many actual hrs you have versus the inaccurate data shown on the gauge. It makes you wonder how many boats are sold with too many hours counting against it's value. I had ours read at the engine when we did the survey but that's about the only way to make sure it's right.
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
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    LaReaLaRea Member, Moderator Posts: 7,552 mod
    Actual engine hours are recorded by the engine computer.  On my boat, I can check them using the SmartCraft engine monitors.  I expected that the hour meters on the tach would be too high.  Actually, they are too LOW.  One side is off by 10%!  

    That means they have two types of errors.  Sometimes they accumulate hours when they shouldn't, and sometimes they fail to accumulate hours when they should.

    Bottom line - if you need accurate numbers, go to the engine computer.
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    Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,559 mod

    Chicken dinner!?  Well, better than nuttin'!

    Tiki, I can see the actual hours with my vessel view.  My actual is definitely a bit lower than the tach (like 30 on one and 20 on the other).  & thanks to the first weekend with the boat (when I had it still on the hard cleaning it), I put about 9 hours extra on port side tach.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

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    espritv8espritv8 Member Posts: 7
    I always run my HU on a separate power source than the cables from the factory. 

    The best way to avoid alternator whine is also to connect the main power from the HU to the biggest amp or distribution block. The remote wire should be on the ignition, but in your case you could always install a separate switch to turn it on or off so the hour meter won't be counting the hours. Pretty easy to do.
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