Colored Hull Care

Hamdog

Hello All,

I remember reading on the forum about something new that people were using on their colored hulls. A type of wax maybe? The people that were using it were raving about the results but most were taking a wait and see approach. My black hull needs a good cleaning/waxing in the Spring due to oxidation. Just can't seem to find the right approach to keeping it looking good. Does anybody remember the new product and is there any updates to how it is working? Are the colored hulls by Rinker any different than the other boat brands out there? In other words, is there a universal approach to all colored hulls or is there something different I need to be doing because it is a Rinker?

Thanks,

Hamdog

Cableguy Greg

I believe the products that you are talking about are Buff Magic and Pro Polish. They are both made by Shurhold. I have heard good things about those products, but I have never used them myself.

craigswardmtb

You may be talking about the Island Girl products which are polymer based products. They sound great although expensive. Curious on how they will hold up too. I opted this season to use Presta cutting compound followed by Pro Polish. The Presta compound is quite a bit more aggressive than buff magic. I only had mediocre results on my oxidized blue hull using buff magic last season. Mid season theoxidation returned.

Hamdog

Island Girl. Yes, that is what I am referring to. Thank you for jogging my memory. Anybody have any updates on the Island Girl polymer based products?

TikiHut2

Here's the ((LINK)) to the other thread. Opinions vary wildly on these products (and got pretty heated) so do your homework. There was guy with a red 342 in Bradenton who had his painted with Awlgrip(?) and said the whole issue of buff/wax or sealant issues are behind him. That sounds like the true fix.

My gelcoat was neglected by the previous owner and needed a serious compounding to bring it back to a showroom finish. Gelcoat is tough, fairly thick and rarely ruined when looking chalky, it's merely neglected and covered with micro scratches that must be compounded completely smooth again before wax is applied. Now that mine's regularly maintained I hit my navy blue hull every spring with a good prep, then gently buff with "3m finesse it", followed by 2 coats of Collonite paste wax. A great tip on this board last season by Michael T now has me washing/rinsing with soft water and a very gentle soap(if any) and it has made a distinct difference. The high mineral content in normal hose water was killing my finish and stripping off my hard earned wax finish every time I'd scrub the boat with my normal zeal (which has been toned down).

If you don't properly compound all the micro scratches out of the gelcoat then wax is only temporary. Here's an awesome purist gelcoat restoration ((LINK)) that I follow, as most high dollar restoration professionals do too. You know spring can't be far off when waxing/buffing comes to the top of the forums.

Good luck in your choice and fair winds. Mike

Glassguy54

THAT is a GREAT link regarding the purist gelcoat resto! You just can't take short-cuts if you want the best results. Hard work? Sure, but well worth it!

Capt Ron

Stop using wax is the first step. Wax seals in the air which will cause the same fading problem and that's why the fading returns. Use an abrasive to get the hull back from the faded look and use only a POLISH and your results will be a lot better over time. The only wax I use is Woody Wax for non-slip areas... I don't use wax on my hull either I use only polish. I had a renown surveyor tell me waxing your hull keeps the moisture in the gel coat which will affect stringers and etc over time. Use only polish because it doesn't seal the gelcoat and allows it to breathe. My boat is out of the water every season for the winter so it makes a difference. If your boat is in the water all the time then an epoxy base coat and bottom paint the way to go.

explore7425

I started using Island Girl the middle of  last season. So far I am very happy with it. It was very low labor and quite effective. My boat sits in the water under the sun all season and no amount of wax, sanding or compounding has lasted me more than a couple of months and it is costly to pull the boat for maintenance on the hull. Island Girl seems like it can last at least one season but I'll know more in September. 

Black_Diamond

Woody Wax is great stuff.

MIKES342

Capt Ron. What is the name of the polish you use.

Capt Ron

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MIKES342 said:

Capt Ron. What is the name of the polish you use.

I use Propolish by Shurhold, here is a link: http://shurhold.com/pro-polish. I find this polish the easliests to work with because there aren't any additives like talc and other fillers. I've been using it for three years now and get that 18 foot mirror reflection every time.

craigswardmtb

Just curious capt Ron. Are you hand applying or using a RO? It seems like I get better results using pro polish by hand applying for some reason.

explore7425

I have the whole shurhold kit and it is good on white but I think it stinks on my dark blue hull. 

LaRea

This will be my first time doing spring prep on a blue hull, and this thread has helped me see the light.  I bought a decent buffer along with 3M compound, Finesse It polish and a can of Colinite.  Can't wait to get started!

craigswardmtb

This will be my first time using Presta compound, which gets rave reviews for being the most aggressive compound to tackle oxidation. I'll take Picts of my blue hull once done. It's pretty oxidized after a season and I really went to town with buff magic last season. I used an RO, which didn't do a good job, so I bought a dewalt buffer, which was better. If you have bad oxidation you are going to want a buffer.

kneedeep

I bit the bullet today & bought a makita buffer, the 3m pads & the presta cutting creme & chroma polish. All that's left is the wax. I'm going to follow the steps that are in the link posted by tiki. I think (hope) I can skip the wet sanding, I don't think my oxidation is too bad - the boat is an 09. I won't be starting for a few weeks, but I'll post how I make out.

LaRea

I finished my topsides up to the rub rail.  It looks fantastic, but of course the real question is how long will it last vs. the huge amount of work to apply and remove compound, apply and remove polish, apply and remove wax.  

Collinite Fleetwax -- the static electricity buildup is interesting.  You can hear it snap, crackle and pop while you rub it in.  Then you learn pretty quickly that if you touch the rub rail or certain other metal items, the static shock will give you a nice little wake-up call! 

kneedeep

RY & LaRea, let us know how the island girl works. I'm going to try the presta this year. I'll post pics. Should be starting it in a few weeks.

TikiHut2

LaRea. Post some pics of the finished project if you get a chance. Your process sounds "shockingly" effective.   Are you using microfiber cloth to remove the Collinite? Can't say I've ever had that happen but the humidity level down here is usually pretty close to max anyway. Mike

Capt Ron

craigswardmtb said:

Just curious capt Ron. Are you hand applying or using a RO? It seems like I get better results using pro polish by hand applying for some reason.

I apply it by hand and remove it with a high speed polisher.

LaRea

Photo taken just before launch two days ago.  Every square inch of every surface below the rub rails has been lovingly compounded, polished, waxed, sanded, primed and/or painted by my own hands (and a 7-pound DeWalt buffer).  That includes outdrive paint, bottom paint, and of course the blue hull.  The only area I didn't touch is the underside of the swim platform!

Yes, I used microfiber cloths for all removal of compound, polish and wax.  Love those things.  I'm not sure if they contribute to the static shock, but they sure are effective.

Even doing all of the labor myself, I managed to spend over One Boat Unit on materials. Outdrives -- $220 for Primocon and 2x coats of Trilux.  Topsides -- $110 for 3M compound, Finesse It polish, and Collinite Fleetwax.  Bottom -- $750 for prep, primer and 2x coats of Micron Extra.  (The outdrives and bottom had never been painted before.)  If I had used yard labor for everything, I'd probably have spent another $4K. 

Ironically, now that she's snug in her slip, my eyes are drawn to the areas that HAVEN'T been waxed yet!  Thanks again to TikiHut and others for the interesting reading on hull care.  

TikiHut2

That's an awesome finish. Glad to share what worked for me. Ill be in Alexandria in early july on buisness maybe we can cross paths or grab a beer. Cya. Mike

raybo3

Boat looks great. 

Mank

Thanks Capt. Ron for the information in regards to wax.  I just went on the website and ordered the polish, can't wait to see the results.  Just curious, would you ever wax for any reason?

Black_Diamond

Not to hijack or derail this thread, but what buffer size (amps) are you guys using?  I know you want one with 'constant speed' control while under load.  Some Dewalt ones are 12amp duty, seems heavy duty.

TikiHut2

Mine has a speed dial and will keep up a comfortable rpm that starts to sound like a hypnotic sirens call. My super hi-tech buffer comes with a harbor freight pedigree of $29. hey, I'm jes' a po' boy......with freakishly broad shoulders after buffing this sled It builds character if nothing else..... wax on. wax off. lol

RY, I'll be in touch when my time frame gets closer to my DC trip. Looks like 2nd week in July in Alexandria/Ntl Harbor. Miami didn't work out so maybe this'll come together. Cya

Black_Diamond

Heading to Baltimore tonight here. Close to RY!

Black_Diamond

RY - send me a PM and we'll see if we can meet up!

Dream_Inn

BD, even closer to me!  You down here for a few days?

Tiki, nat harbor is just a short hop to Annapolis for a boat ride around Thomas Point and the Bay Bridge!  (might make you have 13-footitis!)

Black_Diamond

Dream - I'm by the Baltimore airport here Tues/Wed night. Spending my days at CSX rail yard fixing problems . Drop me a pm maybe we can grab a beverage!

jmoen438

Bumping it as it is that time of year