How does this work: Access to just about ANYTHING!

rasbury

My GPS turns on and gets a warning that seems to be common from what I googled when the wires to the receiver are bad, but, it is flus mounted and I just don't see any access to this or about anything does not look like you have to take the boat apart to get at it! It is mounted to the left of the steering, How the heck do you get at it? I will get a new receiver and when I pull the old wire out use it to pull the new wire through as I don't see how that would be even possible if not done that way!

Dream_Inn

Well, on most boats you can remove pieces of you dash by removing visible screws. From there you can usually see other areas such as behind the GPS. As far as feeding wires, if you are removing, connecting a rope or something to what you are removing to use to pull it back thru. It is tight in the area you are talking, so I understand what you are saying. Deepening on the GPS, you may have hidden screws on the front as well that will help with removal. Use the model number and look up installation of it online to help with removal.

rasbury

that'a what I figured....how about access to the windlass? 270 which as a piece of glass in the nose and a panel below easily removed to get to an inspection hole. There is another inspection plate behind the glass, the glass is mounted with Velcro and looks like it is intended to be removed but since it is wider at the top it can't slide down and out to remove and the trim covers it from popping out....the lower inspection is just to far away from the wires to reach.  Looks like about the only way to check it out is to just remove it and test it. I have power at the switch so moving on to the unit itself, horizon 600. Does this glass come out? Id guess the first time someone tried to get in it but someone installed it and the wires are right there at that second inspection plate.

MarkB

I think there is a plastic snap in frame which comes off and the screws are underneath that. You should Google the model and download the installation or operating manual.

TikiHut2

I removed and re-mounted our Lewmar windlass a couple years ago and if I remember the glass/mirror panel in the fwd v-berth was velcroed(but maybe screwed). Then unscrew the 10" (?) round access panel and reach up in there with the appropriate socket/wrench to undo the mounting bolts under the windlass. There should be a long electrical wire that will pull down to the opening where you can cut and then re-splice it after your repair. Make sure that the wiring is correctly re-fastened to avoid fouling the anchorline and that the screws/bolts are all re-caulked and snug.

Mark is right, check on-line for mounting details for your specific eqt.


While you're in there run out all the anchor line for inspection and make sure that the end of the line is tied off in the hold correctly so it doesn't just run off the end of the bow pulpit some day or worse, come untied if you have it all out in an emergency. (  While it's out measure and paint some 30' distance marks/tags on the rode(from the anchor) so you can easily tell how much is payed out when setting your basic 5to1 scope. I use florescent orange stripes about 3" wide and 6" apart for every 30' with the last one on the chain right where the anchor is barely dragging in the water (5' to the bow roller?) so I can drag it at idle speed for a few seconds to rinse the mud off. just sayin'. Check those shackles and safety wire them while your at it.

 
You might as well figure out how to pull all of the dash switch/gauge panels (it's very simple but quite a rats nest once inside). You'll be in there from time to time (can we all say/groan Faria gauges in harmony). Undoubtedly the gps has a mount flange behind the display that is accessed behind some trim or from the back after pulling a nearby panel of some sort. Check and clean all the connections while you're in there but be gentle.

Good luck, mike

rasbury

Tiki- your my best bet on this one...yes, the mirror is velcroed and once your able to get that loose without breaking the mirror, there is no way to take it out as it is wider at the top- there is no way to work it out unless something else comes apart....Mark mentions that perhaps one of the trim parts will come out and may be snapped into place...anything like this ring a bell? I don't see where anything will come apart.....

TikiHut2

I just kept gently prying and pulling. It went in, so it'll come off. I'm completely spoiled using my windlass so rest assured that all your effort will pay off.

MarkB

Yes that mirror is in tight. It does come out with a lot of work. I actually changed my setup as I didn't want to destroy the vinyl each time I needed access to the windlass compartment. I screwed three wood raises on the outside of the compartment portal, positioned 120 degrees apart. They were around 2" wide by 4" long each and deep enough that the mirror would sit on them just above the existing cut out, about 1/4" so you can grip and pull it off. I attached velcro onto the 3 wood raises and applied the backing (with epoxy glue) to match these positions to the mirror. And there you have it, the mirror comes off easy without damaging anything. Mounts firm, no way it will come off. Would attach a picture but boat is still in storage.

rasbury

all if have to do is figure a way to get it off the FIRST time and I'll be set.....not a real good design, I'm guessing some of that trim is put on after the mirror is in place...bummer but I will get it!

Thanks,

TikiHut2

Uhh, I think the mirror and it's immediate trim all come off together in one piece like a picture frame...... if I remember.

rasbury

well, still have not figured this out yet as I have other more pressing issues but the cool think is I shot a note to Rinker and actually got a call from none other than Randy Rinker today to discuss! He got my voice mail but at least he called! I will update when I hear back from him as if you are having the same problem, my next fix was to bust out the glass and have it remade to come off as I'm sure it is supposed to.

TikiHut2

Something tells me if you're in the boat with your cell phone that he'll walk you through this mystery w/o busting glass.
Good luck.

rasbury

I got the dam thing out, minor/hidden damage to the trim. I will get it cut down before I put it back in....now on to the windlass trouble shooting!

MarkB

Rasbury, don't put it back in. I screwed a wooden frame around the portal just deep enough that the mirror would rest about 1/4" away from the wall. Staple velcro to the wood frame and glue opposite strips to the back of the mirror. I put a plastic trim strip (I think it is an auto detail part) around the edge of my mirror to finish it off nicely. Now all I have to do is grip behind the mirror and easily pull it off. The whole project took me 30 minutes. I did it mainly because the vinyl around the mirror was starting to get damage every time I took the mirror out and put it back in again.

rasbury

good idea for a silly design!

l-skynyrd

Hi all....

Could one of you guys that have successfully removed that forward mirror please tell me exactly where the velcro is located. If I need to push, pull or pry I want to do it where the velcro is and hopefully not break the mirror  And  do you push mirror forward of pull it in the aft direction to disconnect the velcro? Also do the side trim pieces have to come off? I have a loose bolt on the bow roller that I need to tighten and their is no way to reach it thru the 10" inspection hole. I have removed the windless by just going thru the inspection hole and it was a pain but doable, but cannot reach forward bolt on the roller.

Len

rasbury

yank the crap out of it...then fix it so it's not a problem,just did it 20 mins ago..

Black_Diamond

@Len: just went through this exact problem here.  The bow roller was loose, especially the forward most one.  I was able to take off the horn and get a socket on it through that hole and had a friend tighten from above.  The angle is too steep to use a universal at that location to turn the socket.  What I noticed was it does not have a washer under the nut like the other two and it has dug in.  I'm thinking I have some fiberglass work to do next off season to solve this correctly.   (

Newboat

Hello fellow Rinker owners.

I've just bought my first boat, a 1995 Rinker Fiesta Vee 300.

I'm just hoping I haven't bit off more than I can chew.

Nice to meet everyone.

Michael T

Hey NB, you haven't. You'll be fine! If I had a $ for every time I thought I'd bitten-off too big a mouthfull! You have a well-designed boat. Strong well running hull. Nicely laid-out design. Best advice I can offer you is to ask questions and when driving the boat to take it a YOUR pace, particularly when docking. The guy who brings in his boat slow and steady looks way better than the cowboy who rushes in and hits the dock. Whether trouble shooting an item or driving the boat, ask questions, take your time and don't let ANYBODY rush you! You're going to be way better at this than you think and are going to have a ton of fun getting there. We were ALL new at this once! :-) MT P.S. Welcome to the world's best boat forum! Go Rinker!

Dream_Inn

NewBoat,welcome to the forum!  Ask any questions you need!  Friendly forum with great people!

DanD2

Welcome to the forum Newboat. This is a great place for information, the folks here will treat you well.

rasbury

here was the fix: I thought I had checked power at the switch....when I checked power at the motor there was none. So went back to the toggle switch(think I checked the spot light switch prior)and could not get power but was not sure how it worked. Found my install manual and was looking at the typical wiring and noticed, where is that other wire on the bottom. Poked around and found the wire that either came off or from what I could see, never put on. I don't think it was ever used. Anyway, one of the other wires/eyelets broke in my hands-no way to fix and ordered a new switch. I did gator clamp all the wires where they go and worked like a charm! How do you determine the line rate your shooting out when you hit the button? Excited to get this working with minimal problem, can mark this one off the list!

rasbury

and for the mirror, I removed about half of the Velcro, it tucks under the trim on the top and the Velcro on the bottom is good enough for the bottom and can now get it out easy if needed!

Cableguy Greg

rasbury said:

 How do you determine the line rate your shooting out when you hit the button?

I was wondering the same thing. I am new to having a windlass, and I have 20+ feet of chain. I have no clue as to how much has dropped when I drop anchor. Fortunately the few times that I dropped anchor on the river, I haven't moved, which is nice considering I would always drift when I dropped anchor on my 232cc. I was thinking of slowly dropping the anchor and marking on the chain/rope 5' increments. It would be a slow process, but might be worth it.

TikiHut2

As most cruisers do, I tag or paint (I painted with neon orange) a 6" band/mark every 30' or so that's easily seen from the helm (at least on my 270). I took a sharpie and made note on the inside of the anchor locker lid of my scale too.

In addition I also painted a mark on the chain when the anchor is nearly retrieved but still hanging just below the waterline so I can pause to rinse off the goo by backing down for a few seconds before hoisting it into the roller.

I had my windless rebuilt and the tech said the most common reason for failure was trying to haul the weight of the boat forward with the windlass rather than slowly using the engine to move toward the anchor. Secondly was laying at anchor in any wind or especially overnight with the windlass carrying the load rather tying off the rode to a cleat.

Prior to this boat I hadn't had the luxury of a powered windlass and always used the Admiral as a windless but she has assured me in no uncertain terms that there will be no going back...

rasbury

I hear you there, first for me too! But, this method was mentioned previous but perhaps mine is set up a little different: from the helm, I can not see the anchor or the anchor line so somehow I need to have a good guess based on time and not a mark on the rope.....

TikiHut2

If you can't see the bow roller then you'd need some high heels to see over the curve of the front deck or a crew member on-deck for a visual otherwise.

I'm 6-1" and have to stand on my toes to just barely see the markers as they run over the roller, but it's enough. Otherwise just retrieve until it clanks home or binds and hope the anchor is in the roller. Timing it won't work if the chain-to-rode joint skips at the windlass. I'll often have to pause to let the chain get a bite on the windlass as it transitions from the rode.

Good luck.

Black_Diamond

You can buy tags that mark the rode, paint marks on rode at increments.

rasbury

no high heels on this fellow Tiki! Will have to figure out something...dangle on of the kids off the bow....I am just thrilled the darn thing works at this point...

Cableguy Greg

I have 35 feet of chain and I painted a 6-8" stripe at 5 foot increments. I started with a yellow stripe at 5 feet, then a red stripe at 10 feet, yellow at 15 feet and so on. With all of the weight of the chain and anchor, I only need to drop about 50 feet out since the river is 20 feet deep where I usually anchor.

Where can I find the tags for the rode?