When I anchor in a crowded area and can't reasonably blast the stereo or don't want to draw down the house batteries I too use a Sony that docks my iPod. It has a set of rechargable batteries. It is 110v with an adapter for 12v and charges the iPod too. It's genny or shore power for the big boy but the Sony sure sounds good for miniscule power draw. MT
Just thought I'd put my labor day weekend experience out there. I have a 250FV with two (unknown age) batteries and was out with no shore power and no generator for three days with absolutely zero battery issues. My fridge ran all weekend, radio (no amp) for hours on end each day, a couple lights (led) after dark, cell phone charging each night and a 12v TV a couple hours a day. The only charging I had was about two hours a day of the motor running while cruising the lake. I even bought a jumper pack just in case that I never used. I was thoroughly impressed to say the least.
You must have some pretty decent house batteries. I can run my two fridges - a 4.2 cu ft and a 2.4 cu ft (at FULL cooling) plus fans, iPod stereo mini Sony amp and lights, for a long, long time on 3 series 31 AGMs but if I start getting frisky with that 70 amp 1000 watt amplifier it shows up pretty fast on the 12v meter. MT
Well I only have one fridge and no amp on the stereo, so that makes a big difference I'm sure. I expected the fridge to be a bigger power hog than it is.
Dan, two things I hope you don't mind me commenting on. First, you mention you have a new 31 and another 27. I really hope those aren't your 'house' batteries, meaning they are not tied together (in parallel) to provide house. If so, you are going to kill the new 31 battery by having an older 27 connected to it. Your house batteries that are tied in parallel should be the same size and same age. This will give you the longest life.
Second, you say the voltage is 11.1 to 11.5. That is extremely low and will shorten the life of your batteries. 50% duty is ~12.2V. I try not to have my batteries go any lower than that and especially no lower than 12V. Here is little more info on deep cycles http://www.batteriesnorthwest.com/batteryschool.cfm?TID=2 .
Don't mind at all DI, it's what makes this a great forum.
I just wanted to give an example of my situation even though I know that I've got some battery issues
It truly is my intention to get both house batteries as group 31. I had a bad battery early on in the season and had the marina replace the one I thought was bad. The boat was new to me at the time and I didn't realize that I had 2 in parallel. I have 4 batteries, I thought one for each motor, one for the genny and 1 house. I did not notice until a few weeks ago that I actually had two house and they were different sizes. A new 31 will be in place for next season.
I really think that my 27 battery is weak as within 1 hr of being on the hook, I'm already at 12.2 with just the stuff running that is constantly on. I've been trouble shooting this for a bit but have not nailed it down yet.
No longer a boat owner.....previous boat - 2005 Rinker Fiesta Vee 342
Dan, two things I hope you don't mind me commenting on. First, you mention you have a new 31 and another 27. I really hope those aren't your 'house' batteries, meaning they are not tied together (in parallel) to provide house. If so, you are going to kill the new 31 battery by having an older 27 connected to it. Your house batteries that are tied in parallel should be the same size and same age. This will give you the longest life.
Second, you say the voltage is 11.1 to 11.5. That is extremely low and will shorten the life of your batteries. 50% duty is ~12.2V. I try not to have my batteries go any lower than that and especially no lower than 12V. Here is little more info on deep cycles http://www.batteriesnorthwest.com/batteryschool.cfm?TID=2 .
Don't mind at all DI, it's what makes this a great forum.
I just wanted to give an example of my situation even though I know that I've got some battery issues
It truly is my intention to get both house batteries as group 31. I had a bad battery early on in the season and had the marina replace the one I thought was bad. The boat was new to me at the time and I didn't realize that I had 2 in parallel. I have 4 batteries, I thought one for each motor, one for the genny and 1 house. I did not notice until a few weeks ago that I actually had two house and they were different sizes. A new 31 will be in place for next season.
I really think that my 27 battery is weak as within 1 hr of being on the hook, I'm already at 12.2 with just the stuff running that is constantly on. I've been trouble shooting this for a bit but have not nailed it down yet.
No longer a boat owner.....previous boat - 2005 Rinker Fiesta Vee 342
Just came across this thread and it answered a lot of questions, perhaps more people could comment on how they manage their batteries while on the hook like DanD2.
Curious about the Volt meters that plugs into a power port would they be reading the house batteries or the start batteries?
good question- I assume it will read which ever battery is switched on. You have certain features like the bilge and the vhf radio that are always hot but assume that happens through the isolator/battery switch. I have yet to spend an overnight on the hook but I don't think I'd have any issues. The fridge does not seem to pull that much power- even if you kill a house battery as long as you can switch to the starter battery to either charge that way or run the genny I don't think there would be any issues. My radio has a big amp which I'm sure would draw a lot of power but I don't use it sitting much. I did get a new TV since so that power usage is way down. Just have to be on top of it I guess...
We spend many overnights so I want to make sure I have PLENTY of power. Last year I had 3 Group 31's and although I never had problems, I decided to add a 4th this year and rarely do i get to 12.2v. That only happens when the First Mate is in the cabin with lights on watching TV and I've got the TV going in the cockpit. Most mornings when I wake up I'm at 12.4
No longer a boat owner.....previous boat - 2005 Rinker Fiesta Vee 342
Interesting topic as we plan to spend our first ever night totally "on the hook". All of our previous overnights have been in marinas wth shore power. Have two type 27 house batteries in decent shape for the fridge and anchor lights. I also have a medical device (CPAP) that runs on 12v. Plan on using a cooler to avoid having to open the fridge too much. No TV but the radio will be on a bit. We'll see how it all works out.
Willhound, I too run a CPAP machine and got a 12V adapter to use when not on shore power. You'll want to turn off the evaporator as it draws a fair bit of current through the night due to the fact it has a heating element.
Yep. Never do use the evaporator while travelling or on the boat. Too much hassle. Sadly, admiral wasn't feeling well so we didn't do the overnight on the hook. Yet.
I spend a lot of nights on the hook. I use my group 24 deep cycle for radio and listen to the radio for many hours, cell phone charging, a few lights here and there, 12 volt coffee maker in the morning with no issues. I have not changed my lights to LED but will at some point. I have a starting battery for backup if needed.
I'm looking to replace the batteries on my 2005 270 FV. I'd like to start spending more time on the hook and need a good strong battery that can get me through the night, handle my cpap, etc. but still be able to start the single Volvo 5.0L Penta engine. The old batteries are (cheap) starting battteries. The first night we spent on the hook found us with a dead battery in the morning. Had to switch over to Battery #2 to get started the next day.
There are two batteries and the switch can select Batt#1, Batt#2, Emergency Start Only, Off. It is a Guest switch and comes with a warning not to switch batteries while under way.
I'm thinking AGM deep cycle and realize I may need a new charger and/or switch. I don't mind spending a few bucks to get good reliable performance. Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
I'm thinking AGM deep cycle and realize I may need a new charger and/or switch. I don't mind spending a few bucks to get good reliable performance. Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
Welcome Sparky, I think you're on the right path. If my budget allowed it, I'd go AGM with a new charger. For now I upgraded my house batteries to two Type 24's wired in parallel to up the amp hours and one type 27 starting battery. Didn't have to change my charger and total investment in new batteries under $500. Seems to be working ok. Do some reading on the switch hook-up. It varies, but usually bank 1 is for your starting battery, bank 2 is house, and emergency or both ties all of them together. I make it a habit to use the starting battery just for starting, as soon as we stop somewhere I switch over to bank 2, the two house batteries, and then back again when getting underway. That way my starting battery should always be good to go.
If you need a new charger anyway, consider a thin-plate pure lead (TPPL) battery. It will last longer, recharge faster, and survive more discharge cycles than other batteries.
You'll pay more up-front, but the life-cycle cost is probably about the same because of the longer life. Look at Northstar batteries and the Blue Sea Systems P12 charger.
I used Series 31 AGMs PROPERLY wired in parallel and they were beasts. TPPLs are even more robust. BTW One series 31 is good. Two tied together properly gives you almost triple the longevity. On my EC 360 I had 2 Series 31 AGMs for starting and 3 Series 31 AGMs for house - again - properly wired together. That system was a beast.
I can also vouch form 31 AGMs. They are a good battery. What are you running while not on the hook? Have you considered changing your bulbs to LED, as they suck lots of power?
Comments
Here's a picture of what i use for a voltmeter.
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ebay....just search for "Blue Orange Car digital LCD Monitor"
Don't mind at all DI, it's what makes this a great forum.
I just wanted to give an example of my situation even though I know that I've got some battery issues
It truly is my intention to get both house batteries as group 31. I had a bad battery early on in the season and had the marina replace the one I thought was bad. The boat was new to me at the time and I didn't realize that I had 2 in parallel. I have 4 batteries, I thought one for each motor, one for the genny and 1 house. I did not notice until a few weeks ago that I actually had two house and they were different sizes. A new 31 will be in place for next season.
I really think that my 27 battery is weak as within 1 hr of being on the hook, I'm already at 12.2 with just the stuff running that is constantly on. I've been trouble shooting this for a bit but have not nailed it down yet.
Don't mind at all DI, it's what makes this a great forum.
I just wanted to give an example of my situation even though I know that I've got some battery issues
It truly is my intention to get both house batteries as group 31. I had a bad battery early on in the season and had the marina replace the one I thought was bad. The boat was new to me at the time and I didn't realize that I had 2 in parallel. I have 4 batteries, I thought one for each motor, one for the genny and 1 house. I did not notice until a few weeks ago that I actually had two house and they were different sizes. A new 31 will be in place for next season.
I really think that my 27 battery is weak as within 1 hr of being on the hook, I'm already at 12.2 with just the stuff running that is constantly on. I've been trouble shooting this for a bit but have not nailed it down yet.
Just came across this thread and it answered a lot of questions, perhaps more people could comment on how they manage their batteries while on the hook like DanD2.
Curious about the Volt meters that plugs into a power port would they be reading the house batteries or the start batteries?
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
Sadly, admiral wasn't feeling well so we didn't do the overnight on the hook. Yet.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
I'm looking to replace the batteries on my 2005 270 FV. I'd like to start spending more time on the hook and need a good strong battery that can get me through the night, handle my cpap, etc. but still be able to start the single Volvo 5.0L Penta engine. The old batteries are (cheap) starting battteries. The first night we spent on the hook found us with a dead battery in the morning. Had to switch over to Battery #2 to get started the next day.
There are two batteries and the switch can select Batt#1, Batt#2, Emergency Start Only, Off. It is a Guest switch and comes with a warning not to switch batteries while under way.
I'm thinking AGM deep cycle and realize I may need a new charger and/or switch. I don't mind spending a few bucks to get good reliable performance. Looking for suggestions. Thanks.
2018 Cherokee 39RL Land Yacht (Sorry...)
You'll pay more up-front, but the life-cycle cost is probably about the same because of the longer life. Look at Northstar batteries and the Blue Sea Systems P12 charger.
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