shore power operation

rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
Working on changing my oil last night and ran into something I did not expect....I have my shore power plugged in at the house and the panel is on and lit.  I was trying to use my drill for the pump toget the oil out and plugged it in by the sink but no power...I have lights on the dash and lights in the cabin but the radio would also not come on.  I have the battery switch turned off, I have the switch in the battery panel turned on (the switch like a wall switch). I did turn off the genny switch by the genny......why would I not have power for "acc" type stuff? What am I missing? Does some of that power still go through the battery even on shore? Got late and did not have further time to play with it but I figure it should work... 
«1

Comments

  • HamdogHamdog Member Posts: 247 ✭✭

    Rasbury,

    There are things on the boat that only run off the battery......the lights, the radio, the windlass, the toilet......to name a few. There are also things that run only on Shore Power/Generator.......the blender, the stove, the Coffee Maker, the Microwave, the Central Vac, AC/Heat and YES your plug by the sink. If you are connected to Shore Power and have the toggle switch (choice between Shore Power and Generator) turned to Shore Power then you have power to the panel but you must "turn on" any of the items you want to use. Each item has it's own switch on the panel. One says "Outlets". Make sure it is turned on. You also have similar choices on the DC side of the panel. These are the items that run off battery only. Make sure your "Radio" Switch is turned on. In other words, you have two sides to your panel......one for AC (Only works when connected to Shore Power or your Generator is running) and one for DC which is everything that runs off the batteries. The DC side works all the time as long as you have battery power but there is a Master Switch on the DC Panel that needs to be turned on. Your set up should be similar but might not be exactly as described.

    Good Luck.

    "Wetted" Bliss 2005 Rinker 342 - Black Hull - Twin Mercruiser 350 Mags - BIII's
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Ham- I'd guess your 342 is set up a bit different at least as far as the panel....on my panel down below which I would guess the a/c panel, I have a few switches....one is for gen or shore power and it's on shore and the light is lit. Keep in mind this is an extension cord from the house.  The only switch I have on is the battery charger. I have a few more switches, a/c, micro wave, a few others I'm failing to remember but nothing that says radio and nothing that says switches. It sure will be a disappointment if I can't use the radio and the out lets while on shore power? And I guess I did not ask the question correctly, but, does some of this stuff run off the battery even on shore power and then the batteries are charged through the charger when plugged on shore power? I just don't see any other switches in either the panel in the galley or the panel with the battery switches....
  • raybo3raybo3 Administrator Posts: 5,501 admin
    Your radio is 12vdc. You need to turn on the batteries to run the radio. Remember that on shore power that you have a main breaker that says "shore power" and then just like your house breakers for each item. Look for a breaker that says "outlets" and turn that on also. Keep us posted on what you find....
    2002 342 Fiesta Vee PC Point Of Pines YC Revere MA. popyc.org     raybo3@live.com
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    no breaker that says outlets...just the major stuff like the a/c, the fridge, the micro wave and I can't remember off the top of my head but nothing that says outlets. It only has a handful of breakers.  I only tried the one outlet(by the  sink up top) but the batteries are turned off, the genny battery type switch below is off. I should have tried another outlet to be sure but I would think on shore power, the outlets would work but confused if the battery would have to be on or not, would think not...on my battery switch I have several "fuses", the switch for the battery for 1,2 or both, and then an off/on switch like a house light switch which says something about turning on the dash with that....
  • TonyWalkerTonyWalker Member Posts: 744 ✭✭✭
    Ground fault plug somewhere on the boat that has tripped?

    Tony
    Salt Shaker 342
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    ah, did not think of that but plugged in to shore power, battery switch off, they should work then correct?
  • TonyWalkerTonyWalker Member Posts: 744 ✭✭✭
    There are a set of master switches on the 342 at the cockpit entrance gate under a flip up door.  Maybe you have such a thing with the switch set to off?

    Tony

  • EDWINCEDWINC Member Posts: 39 ✭✭
    Hello if you are connected to shore power just leave the batteries on.  and in order for the radio to work make sure you have the left engine key turned to acc then it will work.   that is how mine works. 
    Sincerely Edwin C
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    GFCI tripped or breakers not turned on correctly are my bet. I recently pulled my shorepower outlet and all the terminal screws took over a half turn to snug down. Maybe there's a loose screw....... Plug something into the outlet with an ext cord and take it down to the main panel and start flipping breakers until the thing is hot.

    Pretty sure the bilge pump and vhf radio bypass the batt selector sw for emergency use. The music radio in the cabin needs the key sw to be in the acc postion but not my vhf. I never leave the dock w/o a secondary handheld radio. Buy one and keep it charged and at the helm for that inevitable day.

    Good luck. Mike
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    tony- I have two panels as you describe- the panel my the entrance which has the battery selector. I have only the one switch however there which activates the dash or something along that line and then the panel inside does not have a switch for other than the big stuff- micro wave, a/c and a few other things I can't remember but nothing for the outlets or radio. I did have the key on the acc position trying for the radio but tossed all that effort to work on my oil change which also not going well....damp Jabsco pump won't pump soup but I'm reading maybe I have to really wind that sucker up....plus my oil is not hot.....can I run the motor a couple of mins. to warm up the oil? I've never run a boat motor out of water before but I know it takes a while for the thermostat to let loose which would be long enough to heat the oil I would think....I'm sure I'll get a variety of opinions on that question! Guess I need to try the radio/recepticles with the battery on after I try Tiki's suggestion but ran out of time and this darn work thing REALLY is starting to bug me!
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited April 2014
    As much time as we both spend typing while at work it's amazing that we're not both unemployed...

    Running the boat on a set of muffs secured around the OD foot water intake is a cinch. It's the main way for a saltwater trailer guy to rinse the motor out and I do it every time. Just make sure you have the water from your largest hose turned all the way on and never rev it up beyond 1200rpm. It'll take about 8-10 mins to get it up to 170* and then do your oil change thang.

    I use a 12v harbor freight transfer pump drawing from the oil dipstick, pumped into a container(pic). Although I haven't done it, I've read that you can also carefully puncture the top of the oil filter and let it drain before you unscrew it too.

    Since we're off topic I assume that you've also taken a quick sample of the OD oil at the foot while the boat has sat overnight to assure that there is no water in there......stop using the boat immediately if there is ANY indication of water in there. That B-III is a great OD but water from a bad seal can kill it. Replace the gasket and gently but firmly reseat the plug afterward, then add some OD oil in the resivoir on the motor.


    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I can vouch for punching a hole in the top of the oil filter..way, way less mess when changing it.  A simple screwdriver and hammer hit. :)

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    10 4 black but Tiki, I am lost on the muffs....While I see the water inlet holes like my bravo II, and learning there is no impeller in the foot, I am floored that you can run it with the muffs- is that the only purpose for that water inlet then? Do I need to turn off the raw water inlet so it does not shoot out there instead of going to the motor?
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    and the plug is the plug on the bottom of the foot where I should drain a little out? I have bought foot oil and both gaskets to change it but have not checked it yet....was on my list to change this week...
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    The engine raw water pump mounted under the engine alternator can ONLY draw water from the slots on the foot of the OD. It does NOT have any other thru-hull intake. The other thru-hull (located in the bilge floor near the front of the engine) you may be confusing as another engine intake, is only for the genset. Two differnt dawgs. So you havent run either since you last were in the water? Didn't you see the post about a plunger like water supply for a trailered boat?


    OD drain plug.....Didn't you download the manual? The drain plug for the foot for your B3 is on the bottom/fwd/stbd side. Leave the upper vent in so you only get a couple OZs sample instead of a pint. I use the bottom of a white plastic container under the oil flow (like a cool whip bowl) so I can see if there's any serious metal too. Have a helper change the screw gasket while you stem the flow with your finger and DON"T overtighten it (nor under tighten it obviously). Add a bit to the tank and make sure you re-check the oil reservoir after you run the boat in the water for 10-15mins. DONT/NEVER run the drive in gear more than a second or two while on the muffs.

    Good luck

    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I did look at that manual but it did not look like it covered the
    mpi motor...also, I have two sea valves in front of the motor...i know now the other two more forward are for the can and the a/c. I need to look at that again. I have not messed anymore with the Gen and have not tracked down that hose attachment yet...so confused a bit again bit will be putting new bats in and changing the oil tonight. I thought there is a real heavy hose off the other sea valve that went to the motor...
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    another look at the manual and I'm good.....now then, it does clearly show a raw water pick up through the hull going into back of the water pump and  the sea strainer (now I see how to clean that). I also have a sea strainer for the genny and a sea valve. Now then, I tried to open the manual on the lower unit but it is a RAV file type I can't open and never heard of that type of file before. Also, I have apparently a cool fuel system that also uses water for cooling the fuel (oh my!) and it is a closed cooling system so I may have a completely different set up for cooling that what you have Tiki- it is a fuel injected motor also, 2005. So, I for sure have a lot to learn.  I'm guessing that I will need to close off the sea valve to the motor when I put the muffs on but either way, that should be apparent pretty quickly! Maybe I have water pulling from the foot also from the same pump, have no idea at this point. Wow, there is a lot to this motor!
  • HamdogHamdog Member Posts: 247 ✭✭

    Rasbury,

    Clarification. You have TWO distinct electrical systems on the boat. They have absolutely nothing to do with each other. One is Direct Current (DC -From your Batteries). The other is Alternating Current (AC - From either Shore Power OR the generator). AC works from Shore Power when at the dock and the cord is plugged in. AC also works while you are not plugged in and the Generator is running. The "light switch" you mention at the back of the boat near the Gate is a MASTER switch that turns power to the helm on and off. That's all it does. The outlets are AC ONLY meaning from Shore Power or Generator. The outlets have absolutely nothing to do with the batteries because they run on the AC System not the DC System. With that said, here are the primary items that run on DC only (your batteries). Bilge Pumps, Fresh Water Pump, Lights, Toilet Flush, the music radio, your Ship-to-Shore Radio, the clock on the dash, your Trim Tabs, Raising and Lowering the Drives. All items located at the helm are turned on/off by the MASTER Helm switch in your panel near the entry gate. The bilge pumps are hard wired to the battery so they are always on and there is NO switch for them. There are switches on your Galley Panel for the rest......Radio, Toilet, Lights, Fresh Water Pump, etc. Mine also has a MASTER DC SWITCH which is the first switch at the top. Now your AC only items......Stove, Battery Charger, Coffee Maker, Blender, Microwave, Heat/Air, AC OUTLETS, Central Vac, Television, etc...You can use these while away from the dock by starting your generator and flipping the switch to Generator and then flipping the switches for each individual items you want on.......or use Shore Power while at the dock.

    Make sense?

    Oh, I forgot. The refrigerators will run on either one. They run on the batteries (DC) until you hook up to Shore Power or turn on the generator. Then they run on AC Power but only if you turn them on at your AC Switch Panel in the Galley.

    "Wetted" Bliss 2005 Rinker 342 - Black Hull - Twin Mercruiser 350 Mags - BIII's
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    absolutely makes sense....talk to me like a 4 year old and I get it, thank you very much!  Now then, for the other subject above I do not have the cool fuel option but I do have a closed cooling system on the motor which I'm guessing from what Tiki said about his boat he does not- I do have a raw water pick up for a part of the engine cooling system as the closed cooling does not cool the entire motor...when I put the muffs on water starts coming out of the raw water pick up so I closed that before starting the motor.  I was not sure I was getting the right water to the right parts of the motor so I did not run it very long. I wanted to heat up the oil a bit. I watched the temp gauge but if it's not wet I don't think it will read an air temperature so was very concerned about getting it to hot. Pumped out the oil, new oil filter and new fuel water separator so at least that is done before I run it again...oil looked pretty nasty. I will fire it up again tonight to make sure nothing is leaking and then we are off in the am for our first overnight......then I want to get at the lower unit oil and then the genney. I also keep looking at the conversation about the coolants for the gen and the motor...sounds like some are not messing with it as it's a mess to deal with- I'm sure this coolant is the original stuff so I will figure out how to change both and to get the air out of the systems.....I sure would like some feed back from someone who has the closed cooling system also about running on muffs as I am very concerned about running on the them and over heating...I don't know that the muffs are getting cool water to the heat exchanger on the V8 and I'm sure I will have to run the boat to get the kinks worked out with the coolant change. Then, it's on to the buffer and get this beast looking like it should!
  • Dream_InnDream_Inn Member, Moderator Posts: 7,661 mod
    Ras, I have a closed cooling system and run on muffs. Just make sure, this is very important, that muffs are on very snug over the drives. And after you turn the hose on, make sure it stays over the holes on the drive completely cause it needs the suction from the motor as well. Do not rev the engine though. This was one topic I hadn't looked at till now. Lots of stuff her I think was covered well.

    Dream 'Inn III -- 2008 400 Express

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    How do I get the fridge to work, is shore power only? Surveyorsaid it worked, it has a thermostat buy do not here anything running...do not see a breaker for it...
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    You should have a frig switch on your electrical panel. Additionally, the thermostat has to be moved from 'off' to a temp setting. Your master AC breaker has to be on too.

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    I have a rotary switch in the fridge and on shore power. I do not see any switch on my panel I just turned a battery on to see if it runs only on battery and very surprised it is not on the panel...everything else seems to be working fine.
  • Black_DiamondBlack_Diamond Member Posts: 5,439 ✭✭✭✭✭
    My 2003 342 had it only a dc frig too. You can get the 120vac converter for the frig to it auto switches from ac to dc too.

    Past owner of a 2003 342FV
    PC BYC, Holland, MI
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    It just does not seem to be working either way, will have to work on this a bit more...first night ok...toilet is an issue as well...not drawing water and valve is open.
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    But the fridge does not use raw water...there must be some other switch somewhere...
  • MarkBMarkB Member Posts: 3,973 ✭✭✭✭✭
    Did you turn on the thermostat? Inside the fridge make sure you turn the thermostat onto a number. I think the higher the number the colder it gets. If it's on 0, or below zero, the fridge will not come on.

    Boat Name: King Kong

    "Boat + Water = Fun"

  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    And looking back, there was a switch for the outlets on the panel which work fine....my short list is the frige, the toilet is not drawing raw water and is not moving waste to the tank,windless a few lights and the GPS...dang job is holding me up!
  • rasburyrasbury Member Posts: 8,395 ✭✭✭✭✭
    There is a rotary switch inside which I did turn on but it does not make sense not to have a cut off switch on the panel as it would be very easy to leave on and drain the battery....i tried all the switches on the panel to on and did shore power as well as battery. The light does not come on so so far I am thinking it is not getting power...
  • TikiHut2TikiHut2 Member Posts: 1,431 ✭✭✭✭✭
    edited April 2014
    I had to do a simple rebuild kit in my Jabsco toilet. $75, 30mins and an easy fix. Pump plenty of fresh water to rinse the line, wear gloves and safety glasses for obvious reasons, and keep a few rags around the area when you get it apart. What goes in the tank pushes air out so a black water tank, carbon vent filter will be the next obvious mod after you start flushing the head. Think "de-stink" in the cockpit area near the vent.

    I agree with these guys that there's a switch you're missing. Glad your 1st overnight went relatively well. You certainly had a great weekend weather wise. I assume the boat ran well. More fun heading your way.

    Mike
    2004 FV270, 300hp 5.7 350mag MPI Merc 305hrs, 2:20 Bravo3 OD w.22p props, 12v Lenco tabs, Kohler 5kw genset, A/C, etc.etc...
    Regular weekender, Trailer stored indoors, M/V TikiHut, Sarasota, Fl
Sign In or Register to comment.