About to buy a 2014 260 EC. Volvo 270 DP.. is it enough, or Merc. 350MAG with Bravo3 (or even more)?

raybo3

Sweet looking float and best of luck..........

seguir

Hey Mike.....someone told me the following rule and it works well with me.....6 for appies, 4 for dinner, 2 for sleeping.

JoeStang

Beautiful boat, you'll love it I'm sure. Well, until you start getting eyes for the 310 that is.

Me personally, I'm not a huge fan of the blue dash. It might seem a little "loud" after awhile, and I'll bet it gets a little warm in the strong sun. Whatever though, thats a small deal. Like you said you can always paint it a different color in a couple years if you want to. I would suggest covering it with a towel or something though, in the heavy sun months, as you wouldnt want the horizontal area to fade.

Looks like it'll be close to 80* on Saturday so you'll maybe have one swimming day left! The water never really warmed up though......

JoeStang

RinkerYan said:

MT, could a prop change overcome lack of HP and torque?

I'm sure thats not going to be needed. It probably has the same package as mine, with a 2.20 bravo 3 and 22.5P props. It'll reach WOT easily and 3500rpm will be ~25mph. Thats plenty fast for a midsize pocket cruiser, IMO. It'll be decent on gas too, somewhere around 2.5-3.0mpg.

This is a 260 Sundancer, which is almost identical weight and same power package.

Test Power: 1 x 300-hp MerCruiser 350 MAG MPI

						Range
RPM	MPH		Total GPH	MPG		Stat. Mile						dBA
610	3.1		0.8	4.1		275						75
1000	5.2		1.4	3.8		258						75
1500	7.1		2.4	3.0		204						76
2000	8.6		3.9	2.2		150						77
2500	10.2		6.3	1.6		110						78
3000	15.7		8.6	1.8		123						80
3500	24.8		9.6	2.6		175						87
4000	30.7		11.8	2.6		176						87
4500	36.1		15.7	2.3		155						88
5180	42.7		23.5	1.8		123						90

Michael T

Yes, RY a prop change will absolutely improve acceleration and staying on plane. As you kow dropping to a lower pitch (or a smaller diameter) will change the wide open throttle range. In the case of a lower pitch the engine can exceed its wot - therefore caution must be nused to not over-rev the engine. As we all know 1" of pitch change usually translates into a 200rpm change. Good advice from Joe re- the dash. I have had three black dashes now: 2011 Rinker 226 XL, 2013 Rinker EC 310 and now a 2014 Rinker EC 360. I love the look of the colored dash and that they - in the case of black - eliminate dash glare in the windshield. Speaking of dash glare, the Admiral purchased a couple of yards of black canvas yesterday and is going to make me a cover for the areas of white dash in the 360. That will eliminate the remaining dash glare on the windshield. As Joe suggests, I have used white towels - white reflects heat - to cover my black dash. The Admiral also bought white canvas to put over the black dash when we are not using the boat. Good suggestions all! MT 

Mike_G

 RinkerYan said:

Care to reveal the cost? Did it come with a trailer? Generator? AC?

Probably shouldn't reveal the cost... don't want to get anyone in trouble for my smokin' deal!  No A/C, no generator, no trailer.  I have access to a trailer I can use if I need to.

What do you think is a good deal?  Boat show special on a boat similar to mine, except with the base 270HP 5.0L engine, no bow pad, standard helm color, and some other small stuff missing was $62,999.  It did have the black colored sides though (which I didn't want).

I got the 300HP 5.7L (350Mag), bow pad, "custom" helm, Bluetooth radio, lines, life jackets, fire ext., and some other stuff...   Let's just say that I was in the ballpark of the boat show price on the other boat, but for mine.  I also got free winter storage and a well for a few weeks.

MarkB

Mike, I will tell you what will make that dash look a lot better, and it is an easy fix! I think the blue looks VERY cool, but is just clashing with that wood. It's trying to mix modern and classic together.  Here's the very easy fix ..... drum roll please.

I would wrap the wood in silver or black vinyl.  I don't think it would cost you more than $100 to do. As long as you take off the gauges, it would be easy for a pro to apply the wrap.  It would be a whole lot cheaper than a new gelcoat.

Cableguy Greg

Great looking boat. I am sure that you will enjoy her very much!!! Got to love that new boat smell!

Mike_G

markbellino said:

Mike, I will tell you what will make that dash look a lot better, and it is an easy fix! I think the blue looks VERY cool, but is just clashing with that wood. It's trying to mix modern and classic together.  Here's the very easy fix ..... drum roll please.

I would wrap the wood in silver or black vinyl.  I don't think it would cost you more than $100 to do. As long as you take off the gauges, it would be easy for a pro to apply the wrap.  It would be a whole lot cheaper than a new gelcoat.

Genius!!!!  It can't be that hard to take out the gauges and switches.  Know any good vinyl shops?

-=Mike G.

Michael T

Good call Mark! GREAT price Mike! MT

JoeStang

Mid $60's is a great price for a 26' cruiser with an upgraded powerplant and all the standard stuff Rinker includes. I promise its just as nice as the See ray 260 for 1/3rd less $$$$.

I assume you'll be staying at Hideaway for the rest of the season & winter? Enjoy the rest of the year and we really need to get a Rinker group together next summer since there's so many around.

I'm up at Island Cove marina, just north of the Clinton river.

MarkB

Mike, most of those auto detail shops can do it. Otherwise call a 3M supplier and they can give recommendations. 

Mike_G

OK.. I'll check out a few auto detail shops.

As for Hideaway... yup, I'm there for the remainder of the year and winter storage.  The only thing running through my head now is... How bad is outdoor winter storage for boats?  I really want the boat to still be like new next spring.  I don't think Hideaway has any indoor storage for the winter, for a boat my size at least.  I am going to ask tomorrow.

Does anyone know a good place, and how much it might cost?  Or am I being overly cautious and I should just shrink wrap it, put some of those damp-rid buckets (or whatever they are) in there and call it good?  Maybe cover up the sides with something too?  I don't have a trailer, and I sold my truck today so it would have to be somewhere I could drive it to on the water.  Any input on this one?

-=Mike G.

JC290

I personally like mine inside under lock and key and out of the weather. Where are you and how far do you want to go? I pay around six hundred for the winter most places are so much a foot for storage. 

Cableguy Greg

I would shrink wrap it if it is going to be outdoors. If they are good at it, along with a few vents, your boat should look great in the spring.

Lobodemar

I shrink wrap every winter and let it outside.   With vents your boat will smell like new come spring time

Lobodemar

And our winter are quite strong in this part of the country 

Michael T

Shrink wrap with vents and damp rid inside as well a fresh cap if there might be mice around. (Do NOT leave any food crumbs in boat before putting it away). I have always kept my boats indoors with damp rid in the cabin and engine compartment. This year I will put fresh cap in the cabin and cockpit as there were a lot of mouse problems at my marina last year. the little buggers destroyed a lot of seats and matresses. MT

MarkB

I prefer to no shrink rap.  There's always a risk of humidity damage. I'm not saying it can't be done, but the risk is there.  I keep mine indoors, and it comes out looking like brand new. That is because we clean and wax the boat, and treat the canvas before it goes into storage.

raybo3

Indoor storage is not an option for me. Nobody around here offers it. However I would never go without shrink wrap. As long as its installed correctly everything should be fine. 

MarkB

RY - have you checked how warm it gets inside the boat, when the shrink wrap is on?  It can be 10F outside, but pretty warm inside when the sun is baking on it.

JoeStang

Start calling around the marinas in the area. I know Sassy marina in algonac and Markley both offer inside heated. Its more $$ but keeps the boat nice and clean.

There's not just the moisture concern, but also damage from the shrink wrap gun, theft, and heavy snow falls. I'm sure Hideaway does a very good job, but its nice to know that you wont have to worry about any of that. I stored indoor heated last winter and it was worth the small increase in cost.

MarkB

You don't need indoor storage to be heated, if it is winterized properly. That might save money. 

JoeStang

Thats very true. The place I go to is heated and has a backup, but I still ran pink antifreeze into the engine for corrosion protection.

The nice thing with heated is the temp stays consistent, so the condensation issues are minimized.

Mike_G

AArrgh...  I can't decide.  I get free outdoor at Hideaway this winter as part of my deal.  I might call around and see what is available.  If it's like $600 for indoor, I might do it.  I agree I don't really care about temperature controlled, but indoor would be nice.  They also suggested to have a zippered door put in the shrink.  I already have some warranty work that needs to be done.  Some crooked switches, no fluid in the compass, the vent switch for the fridge (that keeps the door cracked) doesn't work and a couple chips and some imperfections in the gelcote.  That's all I've found so far.  They would be able to do the warranty stuff that way.  What is a "cap" for mice?

I was talking to them about rack storage vs. well for the summer too.  They made a good point about "what if you want to just hang out on the boat at the marina during the late evening hours.  There aren't always wells available.

-=Mike G.

Mike_G

On another note... THE BOAT IS IN THE WATER!!!  I went out for an initial ride with one of their guys to check everything out.  REALLY COOL!  We only went out for maybe 30 minutes.  I see what you mean about cruising at 3500RPM.. it's not really enough.  The boat seems to come up completely on plane around 3800RPM at about 28mph.  4000RPM feels real nice, and it does feel like it's working less.  The "captain" for the demo took it up to probably 85% throttle (not pinned) for 30 seconds or so... 4700 - 4800RRPM and bit over 40mph on the speedo.  Still had some throttle to go.  Full camper/eisenglass (can't spell) was up for the ride.

It seemed to be best to slowly go to 4000RPM to get on plane (tabs all the way up and drive a tap or two from all the way down) and then back down to 3800 to stay there.  Only two people on the boat though, so we will see how that goes.

I did dock the boat too!  It was pretty windy and the camper canvas/eisenglass (can't spell) was like a sail! lol  He tried a few times and then asked me if I wanted to try.  I nervously said "sure, why not" and got it in the first time.  He hopped up on the bow to push away from the pole if I got close, but he hardly had to do anything.  I'll have to get use to pulling the boat in and then jumping out to hook up the lines.  I was also thinking about backing the boat into the slip and then cross-tie the cleats on the swim platform to the concrete walkway cleats.  I noticed nobody else there was tied up that way so I don't know if that's a good idea or not.  The spring line to the center cleat would keep me from hitting the walkway/sea-wall I think.

I'm going out tomorrow to get some gas and do some breaking in.  I think I'll just head out into the lake, see if I can anchor successfully and sit back and read the manuals.  Sound like fun to me (maybe I have a sick idea of fun.. lol)

-=Mike G.

Lifes Good

Sweet ride!  
Here are two tips on docking.  No wind... on a 45 degree angle bring the bow nearly to the dock slowly.  Turn towards the dock and reverse at the same time.  That pulls you parallel  to the dock.  With lots of wind. Bring corner of stern to the dock. Rope on boat cleat.  Throw rope to person on dock and firmly tell them to sinch  to dock cleat. Does  not matter there is slack in rope. Now put in forward and turn towards dock.  The rope will swing and pull you in like a pro.

LG

Michael T

LG - we call that "warping the line" and man does it work! MT

JoeStang

I think you'll find that putting the trim tabs to at least halfway down when you go from a stop to get on plane will help keep the bow down, and reduce planing time.

I never ever HAVE to push it to 4k rpm to get on plane. Just put the tabs at least halfway down, drive all the way down, and a moderately quick & steady increase of throttle until you feel it starting to come up. Then at about 3500 rpm start raising the drive a tap or two, and take the tabs to ~ 2-3 lights. If you get it right the bow never comes up much at all, and its a smooth transition. After you get it up to 25mph or so you can adjust the drive another couple taps up and the trim tabs to adjust for side-to-side balance. My boat rides a bit starboard heavy, so after I get on plane I usually have to have to have the port tab "down" a light or two more than starboard.

You'll get the hang of it, and dont be afraid to experiment.

JoeStang

And if the winter storage is free just make sure its shrink-wrapped good and you put some damp-rid buckets inside. Dryer sheets help too.

Most places are ~ $6/sq foot for indoor heated, so way more than $600. Indoor cold I dont think would less than half the cost of heated, but it could be worth some phone calls.